Member postings for DerryUK

I want to buy a metre rule in mllimetres only. I have found this ... **LINK**

Anyone know of any other?

Derry.

I can report that my motor is now fixed. It was a broken wire on motor terminal Z.

I need to change the motor operation in that today it would run FWD and REV with the drive belt removed. I could also hear the centrifugal switch operating in both directions. However if the drive belt was refitted then all the motor would do on applying power in either direction was hum.

After talking to Les I measured the resistance between the live and neutral mains plug terminals. It was 8.4 Ohms. Referring back to here ...

http://www.instructables.com/id/Dismantling-a-Brook-Crompton-AC-motor-from-a-Myfo/step5/Electrical-resistance-readings/

It should have been 4.2 Ohms or thereabouts. Now referring back to the website above 10.2 and 7.4 Ohms in parallel comes to 4.2 so in my case it would appear that one element was missing, perhaps the start winding?

On removing the motor wiring terminal access plate there was a red wire floating free. To confirm I had the correct terminal I removed the clamp nut on Z and a piece of broken copper wire fell free.

Reconnecting the red wire to Z and refitting the drive belt the motor now operates as it should in both directions.

Many thanks to all for your help.

Finally I should add there is no capacitor on my motor.

Derry.

Yes I am coming to agree about the switch. It seems odd that both forward and reverse contacts are U/S but to be honest I cannot remember EVER having run the motor in reverse previously. We'll see.

I did find this link for a strip-down. Be interesting to see if it is the same as mine.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Dismantling-a-Brook-Crompton-AC-motor-from-a-Myfo/?ALLSTEPS

The writer also quotes resistance values for me to compare.

Thanks for the feedback.

Les, with the drive belt removed the motor will only run with the switch in the forward position. When moving the switch to the reverse position the motor does not run at all.

I can't get my hands on the motor again until next Wednesday but I have a multimeter so I'll use your thoughts to make more checks then.

I've just been to use my Speed 10 and it won't start, I have not used it for 6 months or so. If I remove the drive belt it will run forwards but not backwards. If I replace the drive belt it won't run again.

Is the motor broken or is there something else I can check?

The motor is a standard Brook Compton Parkinson 50Hz 250W(?), is there a suitable alternative at all? I want to keep it single phase.

Any help appreciated,

Derry.

I am building an Arduino ECU for my '69 T100. It has several clever and unique features.

Derry.

PS well I hope it does by the time I finish it, I've been at it long enough!

<after 4 issues trying to follow the "Beginners' Guide to Home Metalworking">

Yes but it's £50 a page irrespective of what's on it. MEW articles don't seemingly get edited so follow Dave's guide to making money, I can't blame anyone for wanting too.

I blame me for moaning and still buying MEW.

Derry.

From the above references can someone devise a test so we can all give it a go?

Save a fortune in matches.

Their email address is [email protected] or

[email protected] for USA and Canada

<done more for carriers than for suppliers>

Undoubtedly . My postman rarely delivers other than things I have bought online.

Delivery charges are often more than the item I have bought.

Fellow Aussie Ron Chernich has a lovely model aircraft engine (making and using) web site so point your grandson at that for some reading.

http://modelenginenews.org/

Ron is poorly at the moment so the site is not likely to be updated however there is over ten years worth of monthly writings and contains many gems.

Derry

He's poorly, but last time wrote this ..."Although there will be no more monthly editions, there are knobs to twist and levers to pull which will improve the existing presentation, and I mean to twist and pull with a critical eye. And, With no monthly pressure hanging over my head, I find I'm quite looking forward to the exercise. More, as we say, to come......... " so things may happen if he's up to it.

IIRC when MotoGP switched to four-strokes the two-stroke bikes were producing 360 BHP/ltr.

I spotted this on the Raspberry Pi website http://www.raspberrypi.org/.

Mini Laser

An engraver based on an DVD drive.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 27/11/2013 19:06:06

I don't use twitface so perhaps I am an innocent.

But I have no gripes with the new Yahoo format.

The one thing that is constant in life is change.

I presume you've used a torque wrench Thomas? How would you increase torque with one of those ?

First apply more force (muscle) to the end of the wrench. To do that with a steam engine you would up the steam pressure and increase the area (diameter) of the piston.

How else can you increase torque with a wrench? Double the length of the wrench. In a steam engine that equates to a long stroke.

So in your high torque engine you want high pressure, large diameter bore and long stroke.

If you think about it, with a steam engine you can get maximum torque with the engine stationary, all you need is for the angle between the con-rod and crankshaft to be 90deg.

But like most things in life steam engines are a compromise.

Diane is Editor of ME and doing her best for her magazine. Bravo!

Should still be in MEW though.

I'd like to read 1, 3, 4 and 6. Especially 3.

<The magazines employ an editor and a designer; if articles are too long, rambling or unclear then the editor is at liberty to, well, edit! >

Sadly on MEW that doesn't appear to happen, the standard is pretty poor at times. It would help tremendously if the originator submitted their article to friends, colleagues, wife/partner for review before publication. The review can be technical and non-technical.

Apparently that page has changed but you only see it if you log in (or something.)