Mounting a Vertex HHV 100 Rotary Table

I think John Shepherd's special clamp solution is the answer, provided I can get a substantial enough one below the chuck, if not, it will be a clamp at the back and milling slots at the front. Martin - thanks for the info on tenons, and thanks to everyone else for their interest and advice - this is my first post on the forum - what a great introduction!

I've been using my RT in this orientation and found I could clamp it in the milling vice and resting on parallels. Not sure if you have a milling vice Chris?

Warco WM-16 + VA4 + HV4

Although I know I have been using the RT incorrectly, ie not using the clamps whilst taking a cut and relying on the forward take-up of the worm, I have noticed that with one clamp tightened it throws the runout by about 0.1mm, so it's best to use both in a proper situation.

Ed.

Maybe these clamps from Arceurotrade are the answer:-

**LINK**

Ian

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Thanks, Jason ... Very useful photos

... Noted for future reference.

MichaelG.

Just a quick note. I have tried to use the side slots to clamp the RT and the setup pulled out of the clamps, my first crash on a milling machine, luckily nothing was broken.

Ed.

One slight improvement to John Shepherd's clamp would be to CSK the hole and use a CSK socket head screw, this would give you a bit more room for things on the table and also allow the clamping pressure from the screw to be nearer the rotary table. Use a cut down allen key to tighten

Just bought one of these, although not a vertex, and had the same concerns over the clamping slots. On seeing posts here and further thinking I will be mounting an angle plate to the table then butt the rotary table hard up to the face then hold in place with two of the Harold Hall low profile style clamps against the quite thick front rib. This solves the clearance issue of the table lock clamps, sound like an OK idea? John

I made some step clamps, perhaps a lower profile version of these would work ok?

John's suggestion of using an angle plate is ok if you have a decent length of table, but mine is only 460mm and I want to be able to use a tailstock, which would give a very restricted amount of space left in the middle. Vic's step clamps look beautifully made and a really good solution.

I posted the query originally because I thought I was missing some obvious method of fixing the table, I now realise you have to make it up yourself, which is fine, especially with all the advice received.

Chris

I made those to suit my screwless vice but you could make some low profile ones for the RT. Probably come in handy for other clamping jobs as well.

I think your problem has already been addressed, however I'll throw my hat into the ring.......

Like John Shepherd, I use a similar arrangement on the "business" side of the RT and an ordinary, heavy duty clamp on the back. See photo, below. For scale, the stud/nut are 10mmØ and the plates are roughly hewn from 8mm x 40mm black steel from the local B&Q. I've milled a slight step in the lower face of the clamping plate. Clearances are tight, but sufficient, unless there is overhang of the table. It looks, from your first picture, that yours is a smaller mill than my VMC, so you will presumably use smaller clamping bolts or studs, which, in turn, will provide you with increased clearance.

John

John, I think mine is smaller with less clearance and I've decided to go for what I think is the best solution in terms of a solid fixing, milling slots at the front with a clamp at the back, this gives a very firm setup and clears the locking screw and oiler - see photo. The downside is that the slots are suited only to my mill table, but I can live with that. Thanks for your interest and suggestion. Christ

Chris,

Nice, elegant solution. Well done! I think there's not enough meat on the RT base for me to do the same, but I've had a sideways think and I might try making a Y-shaped clamp, the arms straddling either side of the table and the "leg" resting on the pillar. Goodness knows when I'll get around to trying it, though.

John

Excellent decision, Chris, and neatly done.

MichaelG.

I have been following this thread with interest, as I am thinkig of buying a Rotary Table.Vertex were in the frame,but in the light of comment, I am looking at alternatives. Arc prices are a bit eye watering by comparison, and they are supplied with mounting plate for Chinese chucks, and its Hobsons choice. They (Arc) did put it to me that it was only a small element of the total cost, which to me is saying it would'nt be any cheaper if they were to supply minus the plate. Warco have quite a good range , but they give no indication as to the origin of the tables, and I would be interested to hear from forum members who may have more knowledge of Warco products than I. Finally, is it a major machining op to marry up mounting plate to Rotary table and chuck, to achieve repeatable concentricity.. Lynne.

I bought a new still in the box 10" Vertex HV rotary table for £99. It was listed on an auction site as a turning table that had been bought for a project and not used, I was the only bidder.

To recoup some (nearly all) of the cost I sold my old "Elliot" 10" rotary table. I can't fault the Vertex but somehow the Elliot seemed easier to use, it must be me being used to the one I had for 15 or more years. I bought it for the vertical option as I do not have a dividing head.

I recently bought the warco 5" model. I believe mine is probably from China . I found two manufacturers but the Sara Tools India ones had different hand wheel handles than mine which were like the Chinese ones.

**LINK**

Possibly made by these lot but ,couldnt be certain.

**LINK**

I found an old Mini lathe 32er collet chuck and have mounted this to the table.

I have centred it by buying a blank 2mt soft end arbor which fits in the middle of the table. I machined the blank end to just under 20mm and put a 20-19 collet in the chuck and placed it on the arbor end and tightened the chuck up. Then i can just tighten the bolts down to the table.

Then remove the collet and arbor and the chuck remains more or less accurately centre for most purposes.

For what it's worth I swung the handles on a couple of the Warco RT's at an open day and backlash seemed to be well controlled. I got the impression that the Vertex RT's are better quality than some others out there.

My home made RT just has a plate screwed to teh base. Might be an option for others, it also adds about 3/8" more centre height.

Neil

Hi Chris,

Another option, instead of milling a slot for clamping is a couple of holes for dowel pins and a special clamp plate. Shown below to hold down a toolmakers vice.

Paul