Member postings for Ed Duffner

Some readings on the circuits would be useful, but I'm not sure nowadays if an insulation-resistance test can be performed whilst LED lights are connected. Needs an Electrician ideally to assess this.

Other things to check:

- With the incoming power off and everything made safe I would check that the MCB's are properly secured to the busbar in the consumer unit and the circuits are also tightly connected in the MCB's. Might be a loose connection and/or corrosion build-up.

- Swap the inside and security light circuits onto each other's MCB's. If the security lights then start to trip, it could be a faulty MCB.

- Check the connections to each of the light fittings are sound and make good where necessary. See over time if this has sorted the problem. There might be a dodgy connection on both runs of lights. Some of the push-in types of connectors aren't that great in my opinion, if these are what're used, but I doubt this is the issue. Worth checking anyway.

Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 20/09/2023 00:08:22

Hi Pgk, we might need some more info to have a shot at finding a root cause.

- What type of wiring was used to power the faulty circuits? PVC? MICC?

- Are the internal lights LED or another type?

- What type of circuit breaker is used on the lighting, simple overload or do they include fault to earth protection as well?

- Any idea of the power consumption of the number of lights connected to each circuit breaker?

- Is there any other equipment connected into the lighting circuits?

Ed.

Just to confirm, it is die-cast. I found a 1/2" 'pipe' tap at work today. Will check when I get home.

I found and tried a 1/2" BSP tap and it starts to screw in a bit but it's too long for the blind hole. A bottoming tap would be better and I might have one in work. I can check tomorrow.

The feeder was purchased here in the UK.

Ed.

Thank you guys.

Ed.

Hello guys,

I would like to make a pole top (ferrule) for a bird-feeder but the female thread in the feeder appears to be a strange size.

Holding digital calipers against the thread across the two crests of what I imagine to be the male thread that would fit into the feeder, I get about 20.8mm.

Using a thread gauge the nearest I can see is that it's 1.75mm (the largest I have) or possibly 1.8mm pitch.

Using an online calculator this all works out to be 13/16" by 1/16" pitch.

Is this a standard thread or maybe a pipe thread of some description?

The inner most crests of the female thread are turned quite flat.

Thanks,
Ed.

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the latest replies.

Noel, I fitted new brushes some time back but unfortunately it wasn't the issue. I tried redoing the brush ends too. At work I usually use a half-round file with a bit of emery.

The board I have is from KB electronics.

Another thing I can check is the contactor contacts. I know these can arc over time and eventually fail. I'll report back with the findings.

Ed.

Just a quick update on this one. I've been waiting for a potentiometer from China which arrived this week. Fitted it all back together with a new pot' today ...and still the same.

Oh well, back to the drawing board as they say.

Ed.

C101 is ok, I can see what you mean though it does look bulged, just the way the light is catching the markings in the cap.

I will check the preset pots. I just received some electrical contact cleaner, ok for pot wipers too although the presets do seem to be very well sealed. All maintenance will be performed on a dead board.

Dick H, Many thanks for the manual link, that certainly is a lot of info to digest.

Regards,
Ed.

At work we always recommend to customers to buy a well known make like Makita, Hikoki, Bosch, Stihl etc where parts are readily available to make repairs if necessary, plus warranty cover. The cheaper makes like Einhell (not being negative) and similar are practically unrepairable because parts are just not available in the UK. I've lost count of the number of times a customer has come in to the shop and asked for a pair of carbon brushes for their Titan tool.

Some UK stores offer quite good warranties on the cheaper brand tools though and it's always worth asking about before you buy.

Also, some of those cheaper tools are quite well made and may last for years if looked after. Depends on the amount of use and the user.

Ed.

Dave, yes condensation has been bad in my shed over the years. I now have 2 tubular heaters behind my lathe and mill. It's strange that it might have caused just two of the screws to rust? The nuts holding the power board to the casing are also corroded but not the screws, unless they are stainless of course.

Ed.

Had another look at this today. Found a corroded resistor on the power board, it's a 220KΩ and reads constant when tested with an ohm-meter, actually 223KΩ. I suppose it might be different when powered on and I will change it anyway. Below are some photos, of the power board and speed controller board?

All solder joints appear to be sound. I have yet to test the speed potentiometer and start cleaning socketed and plug-in components.

Thank you John Doe 2, I hope to have another look at this tomorrow (Saturday). You have pointed out some additional things to look out for and action where necessary, very much appreciated, as is all the input.

Ed.

Thanks Steve, it looks like the same board. I pushed in that resistor yesterday to make sure of that, it was another thing I found on the web. I think I need to remove the board completely and look for dry joints etc.

Cheers,
Ed.

Ok, a few minutes ago I made a video of the lamp failing whilst connected to the motor wiring. It would appear to me that there is a fault with the controller output.

The lamp used in the video is a standard 60Watt, I do not have a 100Watt lamp.

Thank you John, I went ahead and removed the motor, my day job is a service engineer for power-tools and small plant, armatures are generally replaced rather than repaired. The comm' segments are all flat and sound. I have cleaned them though with 1200 grit emery and IPA to remove any carbon dust, I think sandpaper is a little course.

Anyway, checking adjacent segments they measure 0.5Ω all the way around except for where the ends of the coil comes together. The two neighboring segments to the joint read about 1.1Ω an I can very slightly move the wire ends. I will see if I can gently crimp the joint back into place and retest.

The brushes are free to travel in their holders.

Tomorrow I'll see if I can test the controller with a lamp.

Andy, that's a good point about the pot', thank you sir.

Regards,
Ed.

Hello Guys (and Ladies).

For a while now my Warco WM-16 milling machine has suffered a motor speed fluctuation issue and sometimes just twitches or won't run at all. The machine uses the stock motor controller and DC brushed motor. New motor brushes have been installed.

When the motor doesn't run I can turn the spindle by hand safely a few degrees, unpowered, then restart and sometimes it will work. When running, the motor can be stable for a few minutes then suddenly increase or decrease speed or even run down and stop completely.

Searching the web I'm given to understand that speed control is handled by the SCR's and Diodes on the controller PCB. Is this correct? None of the ones on my PCB appear to be burnt out or overheated. I was also suspecting the speed sensor which I think is an optical device working through a holed flange mounted on the spindle.

If the SCR's and diodes are the likely cause, can anyone kindly verify if these parts from Mouser are ok to use? I believe the 'L' in the part numbers refers to the necessary isolated tabs?

S8010LPT as a replacement for the A69108.

D8010L

Thank you,
Ed.

Second time posting this. Microsoft Edge won't allow the SCAYT spell checker to close and all typing is lost.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 15/04/2023 15:55:07

Looks like an old bus-bar.

Ed.

That's an impressive bit of kit. I've actually just aquired a small laser marker, only 5Watts power. Just finding my feet with this new-to-me technology.

Ed.

MK make there parts in ranges, e.g. Logic Plus range or Sentry range. There might be a 'range' imprinted into the plastic on the rear of the socket outlet and could simplify searching for a box.

Edit: Just having a quick scan of the web I came across this: https://www.art-deco-emporium.co.uk/Vintage-MK-4-Hole-Socket-or-Switch-Fitting-Kit-for-Existing-or-new-Backboxes-1158

...will update if I find more.

Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 19/02/2023 17:43:02