Member postings for Lynne

Hi Robert, Thank you for getting back to me. With P12 set to 2, no start stop on keypad or remote. With link in place it operates from keypad only and displays hz 1.6, A 0.9, P0.00. P12 set to 1 with link, runs in reverse only. P12 set to 0 and no link the operation is by remote switches, and no control through keypad. Displays are, hx1.6, A0.9, P0.00. The hz of 1.6 is on the pot max, and the pot reduces the hz to a min. of 0.1 The puzzling thing is that the display also shows 50 which can be reduced to 3 by turning the pot a/cw. If I up P1 to 200hz the motor rotates faster and the displays are hz 66, A 1.5, P0.02.

I am beginning to think that whilst the inverter is 99% ok, the hz control aspect is not. What do you think of the phase resistance readings?. I am not a 100% sure how to go about it; links in place or removed.

Regards Lynne

Hi Robert, sorry it's taken a few days to reply, but for a variety of reasons I have not been in the w'shop untill today.P-o1 is set to 50Hz. I set p12 to 2, but nothing happened via. keypad or remote. Have just noticed the note for p12 say's an enable signal must still be provided at the control terminals digital input 1; so I think the link is req'd between 0 & 1. I also checked the resistence of the motor phases, they all read 8.5ohms between u-v, v-w, w-u. I put new batteries in the meter as I could'nt adjust the scale to zero. Now I do not know if that is good or bad for a 0.75kw motor. I did'nt realize that the speed could be adjusted on a percentage base, I thought it was adjust Hz & the speed went up or down.I'll have a go tomorrow after fitting the link. regards Lynne

Hi Robert, voltage across the pot terminals cw-ccw is 10v. The voltage between ccw & wiper terminals is 50% 5v & 100%10v. Have checked P16, 35 &39, & they are ok. Lynne.

Thanks to you all for the replys.

Robert Atkinson. The vfd description is:- Invertec Optidrive E3 IP20 -0.75kW 230v 1ph to 3ph AC Inverter drive.

pt no. ODE-3-120043-IF12 Thanks also for the detailed test routine to check out the pot. Very useful for me.

Not able to check it out today, but will get back with results SAP. Regards, Lynne

Sorry, I clearly do not know the difference between rotor & armature. There is a picture of the motor name plate in my albums under the heading RDM 350. I have tried inserting this into this post but have failed.I got as far as looking for 'insert', but where is it?. I guess there are explict instructions somwhere. Lynne

Old Mart. Thanks or the suggestion to check out the motor phases using a meter. Why did'nt I think of that, it just shows that I am not switched on electrically.

john Doe2 I did put the vfd back to the factory settings,so I think anything along the lines you suggested should have been resolved. No motor brushes, & the motor spins freely. I will double check the default settings that I have entered using the the Inverter Drives guide sheet. Regards, Lynne

My thanks to all who have responded to my post. When I installed the vfd I did use the Inverter Drives set up parameters & as i said in post it has been working fine for two & a half years. After the pulley trauma I did check the vfd parameter settings, & they were all over the place, but at this point repair of the shaft was my priority. The wiring to the motor was only removed at the vfd & I don't think that the phases are connected to the vfd in any particular order, only to reverse two phases if the direction is not correct. The switches are wired correctly as they work fine. I did reset the defaults to the factory settings & then followed the Inverter Drives parameter set up chart. I do have access to mains 3 phase but it means removing the motor & transporting it elswhere, but at least that will prove out the motor. OLD MART. Thanks for posting the pictures & link. I am still using the one grub which locates onto an area of flat on the shaft, & I will up this to two. I like the key, but I do not have a big dia of shaft to play with. No one has suggested that the vfd is faulty, & , if it is faultyI am reluctant to shell out on a new vfd two and a half years is poor. I still have the original motor, & I did'nt ditch the belt system. Regards, Lynne

I have an Invertec Optidrive E3 vfd, and it has been driving my mill for just over 2 years now.The motor shaft on the mill driving the pulley suffered serious damage recently. The drive was through a grub screw(I know not good) & I had ignored the occasional noises coming from the vicinity of the motor. I had to remove the armature to clean up the shaft, & fabricate a better drive to the pulley. The motor is now back on the mill & connected to the vfd. I have gone through the parameter settings, & there are three mometry switches controlling Fwd,Reverse & stop & a 10k 10 turn potentiometer. The problem I am now experiencing is that on the default frequency of 50Hz & the pot on max, the vfd shows 1.6Hz and the motor revs are low, somewhere about 20 to 30 revs. If I change the po1 setting to 500Hz which is the max setting,the vfd shows 16.6Hz the motor turns faster but is not a usable speed. The pot does reduce the speed, which suggests to me it is ok. So what do people think is the motor on its way out, or does the fault lie with the vfd, though no fault code has ever been displayed. I would appreciate your thoughts. Regards Lynne

My thanks to you all for the very helpful responses to my question. I have gone ahead and ordered an Antex XS25 with silicone cable, and hopefully I will be have it by Friday. Regards, Lynne

Hi, I am looking at the many small soldering irons that are on the web,and am amazed at the range of wattages, and other refinements available. I am not into electronics. My current task is to attach 1A and posibly 5A cable to switches that have solder tags, not screw fxgs. My Solon iron is to big. So my question is, what wattage to go for, or may be its a case of biggest is best, but with a voltage control device, and does this device reduce the wattage? many of the irons do not give a mfg.source, but I noticed that on some, a tin of solder that was supplied had 'made in China' on it. I seem to remember someone saying that Chines mains voltage devices are a bit iffy. Some advice would be appreciated. Regards, Lynne

Hi, the LED bulbs I am proposing to use are like for like replacements for the halogen bulbs, ie mr16 51mm dia. 4.6w upwards, depending on what I am prepared to pay. Seeing as others have done a straight swap without problems, that is what I propose to do. I will watch out for the strobe effect on the lathe. Thanks for the responses. Regards Lynne

Good Morning, My mill, and lathe are currently illuminated using MR16 12v halogen driven by a Dais DA-E60 electronic transformer. I would like to replace the halogen bulbs with led's. Can I use the current drivers. Searching the web does'nt really tell me yes or no, but most sites tell me that one needs an LED driver. Would someone enlighten me. Thanks, Lynne

Chris, If you talk to Arc,I think you will find that they do not reccomend enlarging the bore of the oo qctp

they supply. regards, Lynne

S.O.D. N.D.I.Y.and others. Read my post. I refer to 'spindle speeds when using my mill' so why introduce things relating to lathes? My only question was, is there factor I should have considered when ordering the sensor, eg, frequency for example?. It was l ess hassle to fit just the sensor, than to have to get into the box I had made to house the controls for the VFD. I will look into investing in an optical RPM counter so as I can cross check the revs. When the mill was single phase, yes I knew the spindle speeds from the chart giving the pulley settings reqd. NOT now though.

Noel, what makes me think it is not reading correctly, purely subjective really, 'That spindle does'nt look as though its doing 350revs. the reality is that it is doing just that. Anyway thanks to all Regards,Lynne

Hi All, Sometime ago now, I fitted a 4 digit rev.counter, so I could have some idea of the spindle speed when using the mill. It worked fine untill an unfortunate incident resulted in the Hall sensor bit being de-capitated. I have no wiring dia. of the kit I bought, but looking at the ones currently on ebay,it seemed I would need a NPN hall sensor,voltage range 6-40. I found one UK sourced. It's fitted and working, but I can't convince myself that the visual speed of the spindle is reflected in the rpm shown on the display. Was there some other factor that I should have been aware of? I've googled the couple of numbers that appear on the damaged sensor, but nothing comes up. So, electronics experts help me please. Regards Lynne

John Fletcher1 John, Ihave sent you a PM. Lynne

What is a  ....EDIT...........NOS? You,ve got fingers and a keyboard, spell it out, and use the language. Lynne

Edit Preferably not Foul language

Edited By JasonB on 14/05/2022 18:47:20

Samsaranda, I have sent you a PM. Regards, Lynne

Good morning, My thanks to you all for posting you views on the subject. I've been promising myself a drill for a while, so I will go down that route first. If speed is a issue, I'll then try the screwdriver. Regards, Lynne

Good Morning, I am thinking of investing in some form of battery powered drill, principally for power feed to the top slide when machining 2 morse tapers. However, I am aware that when run in reverse, keyless chucks no longer grip drills, etc., so the reverse facility seems on the face of it to be a rather useless feature. All the drills that I have seen so far, are keyless, so maybe I should consider a powered screwdriver instead?. What do other members do?. Regards, Lynne