white metal castings

Ho guys looking to produce white metal castings of small model parts and figures how from home can I produce large number of the same item.....

Any help here would be great many thanks

For smaller quantities you can use one or two piece RTV rubber mounds which are not too hard to make. Larger quantities would really need a centrifugal casting machine, this not only allows quite a few parts to be cast at once it also produces a better product as the action forces the metal into the mould so less faulty castings.

You may also want to ask on our sister forum "military modeling" as they are more into this type of casting.

Having done quite a bit of figure modeling you may also want to conside using PU resin rather than white metal, I prefer it to work with and you can use more one piece moulds which don't leave the part lines that you get with two piece moulds. If the parts are for the AFV market then PU is more popular.

Either way it takes a lot of time to learn how to place the split, gates and runners to ensure a good casting without flash, badly positioned parting lines and no distortion shrinkage.

J

You might glean some useful info from Alec Trianti Ltd's website 'tiranti.co.uk' who supply all of the white metal/RTV mould making materials you're likely to need. I bought one of their white metal hand casting starter kits some years ago and that included a useful guide to the process allowing me to make moulds and castings fairly easily - as usual it comes with practice.

If you want to practice casting before making your own moulds, Hobby's sell a range of synthetic moulds for 54mm figures. They claim a mould life of 200 pours, but I imagine there are many variables.

Neil

OMG far, far too much information.!

I have visions of Jason nonchalantly draped naked on a chaise longue sofa while the local art class draws him.

Nick

You obviously have a very warped imagination

Sorry to disappoint, this is what I get upto.

J

Those look brilliant Jason. How do you find the time?

Your Japanese archer needs a pit of modification. His grip on the bow (tenouchi) is all wrong and, after releasing the arrow, the string should be on the outside of his arm

Russell ( 2nd Dan in Japanese archery)

OMG what scale are they to?

Bri

Busts are mostly 1/8th scale. Most figure are whats termed 120mm which is their height and roughly equal to 1/15-1/16th scale.

I've not painted any for a couple of years as the two sculptors who's work I liked stopped producing but one has started again so time to dust of the brushes this comming winter. These will be the full figure British Empire ones. Its quite nice to do them in the warm rather than go into a cold workshop of an evening.

J

Speaking of White Metal - I made several efforts to obtain a small lump of bearing grade White Metal. Unfortunately all without success. maybe someone has a bit seasoning under the bench?

Also, would it be far away from the 'real' stuff to melt down a pewter mug or cup? Or getting the raw materials (Antimony, Bismuth) from Ebay is another possibility. Then one needs to get a composition...

Regards, HansR.

HansR,

Tiranti sells a Bearing Grade White Metal

... It's not cheap though

MichaelG.

Thanks for the tips Russel, I did do quite a few mods to the bow as it was not asymetric as supplies, yes he should really only have 3 fingers gripping the bow but I'm not so good at resculpting body parts.

I don't know if its different for horse archers which is what these are supposed to be, I used several photos that clearly show the bow has not been rotated after firing, it says they practice the Takeda school of archary which may be different to what you do?

Yes, the bow has to be asymetric in order to get the length needed with bamboo and still be able to use it on horseback. Normally in Yabusami (horseback shooting) the bow only rotates between a quarter and half a turn but the emphasis is on speed not style. I don't do horses so stick to Kyudo, standing and kneeling, and for that the bow should turn nearly 360 degrees (less a bit for the arm). If it doesn't turn the string hits the wrist and hurts like ***! We don't wear wrist protectors like whoosy western archers

Russell