is this all getting very expensive

Hi chaps.I need a new boiler for a 7 1.2 rainhill locomotive. So far prices for a copper boiler have been around 2 to 3000 pounds for copper and around 400 less for steel. With only propane gas at home I don, t think I will have the heat needed to make one.so it looks like this loco will be display only.so my question is. Is there a less expensive way of keeping this loco rolling.michael

I've never made a boiler but if you can aquire the skills and equipment needed building it yourself will be the cheapest way to go I would think?

Tony

Terry - find the local model engineers club. Ours here do group builds for large boilers; 3-4 people helping out. Share the equipment, or borrow it. Also, borrow the expertise from others.

Of course, none of our boilers are near what Helen Wirrall can produce, but they are less expensive, if more time consuming.

BTW - finishing my 4th 3-1/2" gauge copper boiler; all of them done with a propane torch, but my favourite tool right now is a "Turbo Torch" (Air/Acetylene) torch - you need ear plugs to work near it, but it's great.

Boiler building is lots of fun, at least in my book! (my 4th is going for it's initial hydro test shortly; I need to ensure that my boiler blanking plugs don't leak this time)

Another JohnS.

Edited By WALLACE on 17/09/2013 03:37:44

building a loco boiler is the most expensive part of building a loco - it always has been if done properly. there is no point starting a loco that you intend eventually to steam and run if you are likely to fall down at the boiler building stage, or cant afford a professionally made boiler. of course you can have many happy years building a working chassis if that's your thing (not mine!) and many do.

very few of us can afford a sudden outlay for a boiler - in my case it is a case of stocking up on silver solder and the copper i need over a few years. in my case i dont build locos that have boilers beyond my capabilities size and pocket wise. ive spent far more over the years on copper and silver solder than i ever have on workshop machinery!

a copper boiler is worth the extra cost compared to steel IMHO for all sorts of reasons not least the fact that the loco's re-sale value is enhanced by a well made copper boiler, if ever that need arises.

i should add that ive only built 3.5"g and 5"g locos. quite big enough for me!

cheers,

julian

I thought a hobby was supposed to be a way of getting rid of money

Roy

My wife thinks its a way of wasting money.Michael

Well that is one way of looking at it, when I had my wooden hulled yaught, I went into a woodmerchants, in Bristol to get a few planks of teak, and on his counter was a notice
"Wooden hull boats all have a hole in the bottom where you pour money out" I did make very good friends with the old chap (I now should talk) Every time I went in he was sitting on his stool and there was another one the other side for a mate.I sat there many a time. I did sell the boat when my wife had a stroke and could not get onboard. Now building 5" loco's and it seems to cost the same ammount.
Terry
What would your wife consider not wasting money. What would she spend your hard earned dosh!

I consider myself a lucky chap as my wife enjoys our club meetings and visits to the club track.
Bob

> "Wooden hull boats all have a hole in the bottom where you pour money out"

The same goes for fibreglass and steel IME.

Neil

Sentinels are just the same, I promise you!

OT: Neil, I have sent you an email which needs immediate attention please.

Thanks
Diane

The huge difference between a copper boiler and a steel boiler is the price if you build it yourself in steel. You do have to be a very competent welder - indeed anything less than a very experienced preffesional welder will not only produce unsound welds, but they will leak like a sieve when under pressure. If you can get someone to weld it as a favour then you are quids in. The rule book can be interpreted in different ways regarding the apropriate qualificatons, but I have found inspectors to be happy to accepr a valid profseional NTD weld certificate, which will set you back around £70 for the test, if the chap doing the welding isnt coded.

My Son has just chartered a yacht at a 1000 Euros for a week, its cheaper that way and you get the chance to assess what a certain make and type of yacht would be like under actual sailing conditions rather than finding out after spending many thousands for a new yacht.

In this case it was a 37ft Benatau but I found it a poor boat and rather unbalanced with a severe judder at about 6 knots which got worse as the speed increased. It would not be my choice.

Clive