Member postings for terry callaghan

Thanks. Good information.

Today I took out the pistons of my B1. there as been a bit of steam bypass when running. Looking at the drawings the measurements of the cylinder and the piston are ok. But there is only one piston ring and not two as per the drawing. This piston ring is of the rubber o ring type. So my question is. Is one piston ring enough or should I machine a second the piston to take a second ring. And the second question is a rubber o ring ok, or would a cast iron ring abet a single one be better. If a iron ring is better. What size should I machine to. And what cap size in the ring and how wide should it be. Thanks.

Thanks chaps, that sorted it. Sometimes you just can’t see the answer to an easy answer to the problem.

Hi out there. I fitted a dro to my lathe sometime back, and today I tried to finish the set up and see how good or bit it works. Well it’s not good. I have checked the scale runs with a dro and they run true on both axis. I then measured the movement on the cross slide of the lathe moving it into the center 35mm on the dro. Then I measured the movement of the cross slide with a digital vernier gauge and the measurement was only 17mm. Something is way off. I lost the manual and can’t find one on the internet. It’s a cheap Chinese dro. Anyone have any views. Thanks.

I converted a warco mill. It’s easy enough to do, but as stated you need a mill to remove metal from the bed. I have a Denford 2600 which I also converted to run Mach3. There is a lot of information on the internet. Maybe too much. But it can be done. I found with the Denford router that dealers asked mad prices for a Mach3 conversion. In truth even using good quality electronics it only costs £500 or under. Cheaper if using a Chinese Bob.

Hi Paul, what sort of flow rate is the pump. I have found by using a friends mill that the flow was too low and the coolant ended up all over the place as the cutter was able to throw it from the cut. I was looking at getting a heavy flow of coolant to stop the cutter being able to throw it away from the cut and all around the workshop. But still not sure which pump would be best.

Hi chaps. I mill a lot of aluminium and coolant is a big issue along with chip clearance. I started with a coolant spray bottle, ok for milling face cuts and open sides, but useless at slots or pockets. I then went to a fog buster set up and had little improvement over the bottle. Added pressurised air to the fog buster to help clear chips, worked ok but still found at times during deep cuts the chips not clearing and welding to the cutter taking place. So now I am looking at flood coolant. I have seen the warco sort of set ups, but don’t feel that they give enough coolant flow after watching a few videos on utube. I have read the posts on this site, but it’s mainly lathes. So what do you chaps use for aluminium milling deep slots etc.thanks

Hi, RJW motors and inverters are my go to. The young woman as so much knowledge of the subject it’s a joy to take to her. She will sort out what is needed to suit you. And they give full back up.

Hi Colin, you may or may not be aware that a lot of VFD,s on the market do not have a proper earth build in. So please don’t purchase a cheap unit off eBay or Amazon. You can purchase a safe unit for around £200 with full back up. I have a Colchester bantan running off a VFD, the wiring at the VFD end is simple, but making sure you have your motor in the correct configuration is the most important bit. I live in Yeovil, so if you need help call out. Michael

Thanks for all your replies. It looks like er is the way for me to go forward on this.

My bad it is of course clarkson. Thanks for reply’s

Hi, which is better the Thompson type auto lock collets or the spring type er collets. I have always used the spring type collets, but with the machine I purchased was a set of Thompson collets and Chuck. Anyone have any views on which is best and why

It all depends on how far you need to move the machine. I have the very same lathe and had to move it some distance when I collected it. I used an engine hoist to lift the lathe from the stand and place on a pallet truck. I strapped the lathe well down and with my partner pushing and me pulling was able to move it 200 yards to my trailer. I hated the idea of taking it all apart. I removed the motor, tail stock and crossslide to reduce the weight and try to balance the lathes weight better.

Thanks

Hi out there. I would like to visit a few tracks this year if possible. What do clubs now ask visitors to their track before they can have a ride around it. I have an battery loco, so no need for boiler tests. Thanks. Michael

Hi, as anyone any drawings covering a diesel electric locomotive. I need to be able to view all axis of the locomotive. If you have a set or know a place I can purchase a set can you please let me know. Thanks, michael

My warco milling motor went bang a few weeks back. I have replaced it with a three phase motor purchased from , The electric motor man, ilchester. As I only live around the corner. The motor just dropped in, no drilling needed which was good news. I have no connection with the dealer, I just find him helpful, and with the electrical knowledge I don’t have.

Thanks for the information chaps.

Hi Tony, I would like to use a mitsubishi brand as I have had one for years and never let me down. Apart from the expensive ones they are all on back order. I just don’t want to go through the nightmare of the Chinese ones again with no back up.

Hi chaps. For some reason single to three phase inverters or vfd. Are thin on the ground. I have a mitsubishi vfd in my workshop that’s rated to 1.5kw which is running the lathe. However I had to replace the motor on my milling machine to three phase and this motor is also rated at 1.5kw. So question is there a way that I can run both machines ( not at the same time ) from the single vfd. I don’t however wish to connect and disconnect cables each time. Would some sort of electrical switch work. What are your views.