Michael1 | 08/08/2010 03:23:00 |
4 forum posts | Page 10, Paragraph "Clamp (1).
Harold Hall writes "Reverse in the chuck and face the end to length making it slightly concave for comfort in use."
The part is a button that would be depressed with the thumb or finger.
What is the method to make the concave on the face?
(Bolding and underlines are mine.)
Thanks |
John Stevenson | 08/08/2010 04:43:55 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | I think that's a misprint and should read convex for a push button. In which case putting the radius on free hand, filing or a form tool are the easiest options. John S. |
Michael1 | 08/08/2010 05:40:45 |
4 forum posts | Thanks for the reply John, but even the drawing with the article shows it as a depression.
Rgds
Michael |
KWIL | 08/08/2010 08:59:19 |
3681 forum posts 70 photos | So your oily finger cannot slip?? |
JasonB | 08/08/2010 10:05:25 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Use a ball turner with the cutter beyond ctr so it cuts concave like this or grind a form tool
Jason |
Keith Long | 08/08/2010 10:35:58 |
883 forum posts 11 photos | Why not just face it off using the compound slide set at a slight angle insead of moving the tool with the crossslide? For what the intended purpose is, a conical shape is as good as curved depression. As Kwil says it's only to stop yourf finger slipping! Keith |
Ian S C | 08/08/2010 11:56:39 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | The way I'v done it is with a hand held scraper tool with an edge similar to a wood turning scraper(the first time it was ),clamp a steel bar in the tool post as a tool rest so that the cutting edge of the tool is about center hight,run the lathe at a moderate speed (carbon steel tool), take thin slivers off, it will only take a minute. Ian S C Edited By Ian S C on 08/08/2010 11:59:22 |
wheeltapper | 08/08/2010 12:22:10 |
![]() 424 forum posts 98 photos | Isn't it funny how you can sometimes read what isn't there.
I made this and I automatically read convex and made it convex, It's only now, looking properly at the plan, I see it says concave.
![]() I haven't had any trouble with my finger slipping tho.
Roy |
John Stevenson | 08/08/2010 12:31:51 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | Posted by Michael Ryan 1 on 08/08/2010 05:40:45: Thanks for the reply John, but even the drawing with the article shows it as a depression. Rgds Michael Sorry, wasn't looking at the drawing. Alternate way would be a few concentric rings to form vees to prevent slipping. John S. |
Ian S C | 08/08/2010 15:31:25 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Hi John S, sounds like you and I are similar, study the instructions only if everything else fails, well don't want to copy things exactly any way.Ian S C |
Stub Mandrel | 08/08/2010 21:18:01 |
![]() 4318 forum posts 291 photos 1 articles | When I saw Harold's depth gauge it immediatly made me think of one I made a few year's ago, using almost exactly the same design. I read someone's letter suggesting that you use a bit of silver steel in one of those plastic toggles used for coats and rucsacks. I chose convex and I've never had any problems ![]() I think mine is a little bit prettier, especially the heat-blued body. Neil |
Michael1 | 08/08/2010 23:15:45 |
4 forum posts | Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Whether I make the devices or not, I like to read all the articles carefully and study the methods used. It just surprised me that in an article that would obviously appeal to the beginners like me, and particularly when written by Mr Hall, that there was no mention of how to achieve the concave. Rgds Michael |
Martin W | 09/08/2010 16:56:57 |
940 forum posts 30 photos | Hi
For what it is worth if you decide not to make one of these depth gauges but would like a depth gauge then Allendale supply digital depth gauges with quite a fine quill, measure to just over 1 inch/ 30mm depth. I have bought one and it seems pretty good and solid, note its NOT the tyre tread depth unit as these are plastic and are only fit for car tyres. Link to the Allendale catalogue is DRO.
As usual personal disclaimers re association with firm and suppliers.
Cheers
Martin |
Ian S C | 10/08/2010 02:32:50 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Another way to make it non slip would be to attack the endwith a V shaped tool and cut concentric grooves, not too deep would look quite nice,we don't want all our tools to look the same as every one elses.Ian S C |
Gordon W | 10/08/2010 11:12:10 |
2011 forum posts | I'm surprised all you horny handed old timers need a non-slip surface, I would have thought the finger tips would scratch brass. |
Stub Mandrel | 14/08/2010 21:15:50 |
![]() 4318 forum posts 291 photos 1 articles | Hey! My wife's the Avon Lady so I have a large blue bottle of cheap moisturiser* to replace all the nasties degreasing my claws removes. I keep meaning to pick up a new bottle of barrier cream. Have 'Comma' products disappeared from the shelves? Also, every digital/non-digital caliper I have has a rod for use as a depth gauge. I still find the basic one, used as a comparator, more useful. Neil *generously donated to stop me pinching the shea body butter - whatever that is ![]() |
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