How to remove this pulley?

I want to remove the pulley from this motor. Initially I wanted to use it. It is a poly-v type. But I think it is missing something. Shouldn't be rubber in every grove? What is left are only a few pieces of brittle rubber in a few groves. The edges are very sharp. It is like a thread. I think it will have a small contact surface with the belt.

The internal diameter is 1". I tried to use a 200g hammer but no effect. The problem is that I have to push also the bearing out. What are the options? A bigger hammer? I don't think the bearing will be happy. How about trying to cut the pulley with the angle grinder?

On a smaller scale with a mower motor, my only option was to make a bolt together split steel holder to sit it under the hydraulic press. The bore was grooved with a threading singlepoint at the same pitch as the belt grooves. It looked like a thread inside. If you take it to a small engineering workshop,they may be able to help. If you don't want to reuse the pulley, then the easy way is to turn it off on a lathe.

Edited By old mart on 30/06/2023 19:07:00

Hi, I'm not sure what you are saying about the pulley, it does look like a Polly-V, there should not be any rubber in the grooves, they should be clean and yes, the ridges of the pulley grooves will be fairly sharp.

A small ish wire brush wheel in a drill should clean up the grooves.

Get a bearing puller set. Even a 20 euro one will help

You use them once in a blue moon but they make an awkward job ridiculously easy

for some reason you need to hammer the snot out of a pulley to get it to move and yet they slide off easy-peasy when you use a puller

Check for sneaky grub screws if it still refuses to budge

Edited By Ady1 on 30/06/2023 20:10:23

If your photo showed the end of the shaft it might be possible someone could suggest how to remove it.

Could it be taper lock

It looks like pretty normal Poly Vee pulley and once the rubber remnants are removed will make excellent contact with the matching 'V' shaped ribs on the belt.

Ian P

The pulley is very close to the motor end casting so I doubt you will get an ordinary puller in the gap. A bearing puller is what you need, it has a narrow edge and is 2 parts held together with 2 bolts, 2 extension bolts attach to a pulling beam and a screw or hydraulic ram provide the power. OR clean the pulley and use it ? Noel.

They have a lot of contact surface area thanks to all those groove walls, but even a flat pulley will drive if correctly set up.

Hammering things, even if a little more gentlemanly in approach than Ady's colourful suggestion, is more likely to maker things worse than better.

The boss on the end suggests to me possibly a taper fitting, if not a 'Taper-Loc' (it is a trade-mark) then something similar. Though what's that slight, circular bulge on the face lurking in the shadows? Not hiding one of those "sneaky" grub-screws, is it?

If this is a fine Poly-V pulley than maybe I don't have to remove it. I thought first that maybe is missing something. If I keep it remains the other problem. What pulley to put on the arbor. I need a pulley with equal diameter (60mm). A larger one will decrease the speed bellow 1400rpm. And a smaller one ... will be too small I guess. So far I didn't found one.

I considered the option of making a pulley from HDPE. But if those sharp edges are important then maybe this is not a good choice of material. Aluminum would be next choice.

This is how the motor is looking from the front:

There were also 2 set screws. And another screw in front, with a large washer

They don't have to be sharp at the top and I think it is better if they are not since the rubber belt has a small radius at the bottom of the groove. You can find details of the shape in makers catalogues. There are several different sections, for instance PJ section is a 40 degree angle and the spacing of the grooves is .091 thou.

Pulleys are not hard to make, or else they are sold in a range of sizes and widths. The belts are sold to the width you order, they have a wide piece for each standard length and cut it to the number of ribs you need. The belts don't need a lot of tension and run quiet and smooth. They will go around smaller pulleys than V belts.

John

It just crossed my mind another idea. The guy from where I bought this motor has one more. It is not too expensive, I could buy it and extract the pulley from there. This motors are good quality and I'll need a second motor anyway at some point in the future. But I have again the problem of removing the pulley.

A puller like this one could fit between the pulley and the motor case. But would it be strong enough? Could it be possible that some locking liquid was added, so I'll need to heat the part?

Yes Sonic, that should do it if not locked ! It's keyed so look for grub screws. Noel.

This type are usually better if you have room to fit them;

Clarke Bearing Splitter

..other suppliers are available!

..and some heat always works wonders..

Edited By DiogenesII on 01/07/2023 07:03:43

.

One of the many merits of Poly-V is that the belts will wrap around very small diameter pulleys.

MichaelG.

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Edit: __ Just noticed that John Olsen has already mentioned that ^^^

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/07/2023 07:07:49

I'm not really clear what it is you need - the motor, the pulley or motor with pulley!

Transmission-components stockists sell Poly-Vee pulleys in ranges of sizes with belts to suit. It could be that the existing pulley is about the smallest made, but would work on what the motor will drive with a larger pulley on the motor.

Though as John points out, you need know the groove profile. That might be stamped on the pulley end face... quite likely the one facing the motor!

Be careful about heat. That pulley is very close to the motor's end bearing.

Just found this: **LINK**

https://sitspa.com/poly-v-belt-drives/

… which might give you some hints about the pulley fixing system

MichaelG.

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Ref. __ https://sitspa.com/locking-devices/ser-sit-taper-bushing/

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/07/2023 08:01:52

I can never understand why some people feel the need to fit so many screws and keys to motor pullies.

I came across one such motor,1/2 HP fitted with two grubscrews, one key, and another screw tapped into the end of the shaft, all to cope with 1/2 HP !. Came across aa few others over the years. Surely one screw plus a key should be enough ?

Make sure that there are not 2 grub screws as the sometimes do this to reduce the chance of them unscrewing with vibration. If the pully is made of aluminium heating it is more likely to work as it's coeficient of expansion is higher than steel.
If the Clarke Bearing Splitter will not get between the pully and the motor end plate then making a wooden clamp to grip the sides of the pully might work. Get 2 pieces of wood with a thickness about the same as the length of the pulley and a bit wider then the pulley diameter. Bolt them together with 2 lengths of threaded rod. Then bore a hole through them centered on the joint and a diameter slightly less than the core diameter of the V grooves.. You can then clamp this around the pulley. Then use 2 or 4 lengths of threaded rod between the wooden clamp and the metal plate with the screw to push against the end of the shaft. So you noe have a home made puller thet should grip the pully without damaging it. Also putting "plus gas" (Penetrating oil.) into the grub screw hole and the end of the shaft may help.

Les,

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 01/07/2023 09:36:08

Definitely a 'Poly-Vee' drive so don't even think about making making a plastic version. On end view of motor shaft, looks to be a sleeve (Tapered?) between the shaft and the pulley. O/P is not giving us any clues as to whether there are any grub screws in the pulley.

Regards Ian.

The keyway and the washer and end bolt indicate a parallel shaft, looks greased so should come off easy ! Diogenes has shown the type of puller I had in mind. I bought one years ago with 2 sets of extension bolts to remove rear wheel bearings from half shafts. Noel.

Hi Circlip, he says there were two set screws and one in in the end with a washer below his photo. I don't think there is a tapered bush, what you see is shiny parts where the washer has had good contact, the black bits look like old grease to me.

Regards Nick.