Distance of air compressor to workshop?

I might want to site a compressor in an outhouse, about 20m from what will be the workshop, and I would bury the air pipe across the lawn.

The compressor would only be used for occasional use of a 3/8" drive impact wrench, maybe a die grinder, inflating tyres etc, but nothing needing huge CFMs or pressures.

Would there be any problem with such a long run of air pipe ? I could research this, but I might get a quicker answer from you guys.

Also, any guidance on the pipe material - plastic would last longer buried in the ground.

Thanks.

Edited By John Doe 2 on 07/07/2022 16:58:30

Can't see a problem. I have a long rubber reinforced hose about 3/8" internal diameter - probably 15m . No problem for small spray gun, tyre inflation, etc.

I would advise flex plastic airline pipe inside flexible plastic conduit. No need to sink it really deep in the lawn. To make the "trench", sink a spade into the lawn in line with the tube, wobble spade back and forth to make the trench and sink it about 4" deep, perhaps a 18" deep when crossing flower bed.

Having a buried pipe might give you condensation problems due to the cool run.

!0mm minimum internal diameter pipe

Wrap some insulation around an air hose then put it in some drain pipe before putting in the ground.

Run 22mm aluminium pneumatic pipe with a fall to one end with a drain fitting. Bury the pipe deep enough not to freeze in winter and be hit by garden implement.

If only for occasional use would it be too much trouble to simply get a wind up reel of airline to run out when needed. I bought a 20 m, 1/4" nominal bore, one with connectors both ends from LiDL fot £ not very much some years back. I'd probably put connectors on the outside walls ov both outhouse an workshop. With suitable weather protection covers.

Maybe consider an auto retract one. Unfortunately most of the less expensive ones are too short but this one from OnBuy (whoo they!)

**LINK**

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/65ft-20m-retractable-auto-rewind-air-line-hose-reel-compressor-wall~c10574~p29835393/?exta=gshp&stat=eyJpcCI6IjUwLjU5MDAiLCJkcCI6MCwibGlkIjo0MDk1OTI3NCwicyI6MzcsInQiOjE2NTcxMDIyMjksImJtYyI6IjEuNSJ9&lid=40959274&exta=gshp&gclid=CjwKCAjwiJqWBhBdEiwAtESPaPyntR3DCEP7sp-WijWPu1yk0JyckKET_jWQvVG1XcUYW2Wf2OafXhoCFx4QAvD_BwE

gives you 20 m of 3/8" bore for just over £50. Which is remarkable value, usual suspects are £100 (ish) or more.

Making a totally reliable job of burying air hose so there is no chance of condensation and other water issues is rather more effort than it might seem. So-so and usually OK isn't too hard but if I'm going to that trouble I want always works with no moisture.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 07/07/2022 18:14:33

I just have quick connect fitting on the outside wall of my shed for outside use (blowing up tyres etc).

Condensation would be a worry for something buried.

Jim

Hi, I would try 25mm blue water pipe ,this is rated at 12.5 bar,it’s also cheap.

When using air tools ,you need the largest diameter pipe possible to supply them.

Maurice

Minimum dia 1/2" with a fall to a drain, even for a 3/8" air gun. Good Luck. Noel.

+1 for pipe that will, not corrode. If blue water pipe can withstand at least 16 bar (Normal operating pressure x 2 ) pipe of at least 1/2" bore I would think that it should, be fine.

There will be a pressure drop over such a distance, so make the pipe larger bore than usual. And there will be condensation.,

Also at the take off point ideally configure it with a TEE, after a vertical pipe, with an elbow so that feed is from the side, the take off is on the top, and with a drain on the downward leg of the TEE.

Howard

Consider a "local" air receiver in the workshop if using smaller pipe. I doesn't have to be too big. As well as poviding the initial burst of air needed to get tools etc up to speed it will help collect any water in the line.

in aircraft maintence hangares you will often see airline "pigs" small receivers (often made of large diameter pipe) with one inlet and several outlets. Even if only using one outlet they make big difference to "windy" tool performance.

Robert G8RPI.

Others have already said it, but I'll add my two pennorth.

A rattle gun only gives its rated impact torque if it's adjacent to the air source (for which read receiver) AND connected by an oversize tail, not including a quick release fitting (PCL fitting, Schrader fitting etc). It depends what you want to rattle, but I guarantee you'll be disappointed by trying to run one on the end of a flexible pipe 20 metres long, unless it's way way oversized. Maurice's 25 mm blue pipe is a step in the right direction but I would double it to 50 mm or more if I could get it. The connecting pipe then becomes a significant energy store in its own right.

Robert's local air receiver suggestion is useful, but you'll need enough air stored you don't rely on the underground pipe to bring you more to achieve whatever you're giving a headache to with the rattle gun. With both air receivers charged to full pressure, the two ends of the underground connecting pipe are initially at the same pressure, so no flow takes place, It is only when the local receiver pressure has dropped significantly that air flow to refill the receiver takes place, by which time the impact wrench is a shadow of its former self.

Energy transfer by compressed air is inefficient.

When I answered before I just thought of a simple solution that was what you asked, but really a small compressor on wheels isn't a difficult thing to move about, maybe consider storing it in your outhouse and wheeling it across the garden when you need it?

Or put your compressor against the outside wall of your workshop and build a small lean-to over it. Close to hand to switch on and off and drain the receiver but the noise is outside.

There is no distance. Any distance is ok. It could be half a mile away. Air . Water & hydraulic. No matter it matters not.

Steve.

I'm only an amateur, but I don't see a problem with distance or even the condensation as long as you use a moisture trap and non-corroding pipework. In my opinion the advice of a small local receiver is a good idea, however I would probably have an additional moisture trap between it and the external pipe.

The regulator on my compressor tank is set almost to maximum, with smaller regulators at each spur. As a result the long length of large bore pipework between my tank and outlets is a bit of extra capacity too.... :D

The hose to my spray gun is about 20 metres and no problem.

I would use gal steel or copper tube if buried underground. Condensation is an advantage as long as there is a fall to a water trap and you would be getting drier air at the end. (moisture in the air is a problem when spray painting)

Pipe size and length of runnis not an insurmountable problem requiring a lot of discussion. There are plenty of recommendations for minimum diameters on the net.

HERE’S ONE

It would have actually have been quicker to research before posting on here! Obviously larger is better, but 2” is way OTT if the compressor is only 4cfm.

A few observations on replies given ! Any air tool will require a large volume of air to work effectivly, tyre inflation and paint spray guns are not even in the same ball park. Plastic or rubber will often be eaten by rodents, Aluminium if unprotected may quickly corrode depending on soil conditions. There are only 2 types of pipe I would consider, galvanized steel, or copper for subsurface use, and no smaller than 1/2" dia. ! Noel.

Many thanks for all the replies and observations.

The remote siting is to avoid noise nuisance - for my neighbours as well as me. Putting the compressor on the outside wall of the workshop will be close to my neighbour, and even in a cabinet will cause a noise nuisance.

I would prefer a fixed installation if possible, rather than wheeling out a compressor or an airline reel every time I need a quick blast of air, or to inflate a tyre. It might be raining, and I want to avoid having to trudge across a wet lawn. My thinking would be to have the electrical supply to the compressor switched from the workshop, so I just walk in to the workshop via the internal door, switch on the lights and the compressor and I am ready to go.

I had not thought about condensation.

I could of course use battery tools instead, but they can be very expensive and it would be nice to be able to have a blow nozzle and a tyre inflator, so an air system seemed like a better option, but perhaps not.

Anyway, thank you all for your time. Food for thought.