JB Weld

As a long time advocate of JB Weld and it's properties for use in fabricating 'castings' I have just found this video on youtube

The results of comparison of four different products in several applications is quite convincing and reinforces my confidence in it.

Worth a look if you need to be reassured of it's usage for 'our' needs

Link

Hope that's of interest to someone

Tug

Without a doubt!

Has to be made in the USA to have a chance of coming out top, for that guy.

Not watched it, but I avoid his videos with a vengeance - unless I want a ‘laugh’.!

Likely unfair on this product, but there!

Edited By not done it yet on 05/06/2022 06:11:38

I'm a very big fan of JB Weld.

It's fixed things that I really thought destined for the bin

Jim

Agreed. Fantastic product

If you "avoid his videos with a vengeance" then how can you possibly comment ??

I have always subscribed to the edict of not making a comment unless sure of the facts - it is so easy to make one that is hollow in origin if not.

I posted this not because of watching endless similar videos - and many are, I grant you, at times worthless of ones time - but because to me it showed the merits of the product against others in similar tests. I just happened to see it in the right hand selection and looked at it out of interest. Personally I found nothing to laugh at - yes the tests were not exactly scientific but were enough to show that it's (JBW) properties are well worth investigating for the model engineer.

It's easy to be quick to condemn - not deserved in this instance in my humble opinion and yes, very "likely to be unfair to the product" but maybe as your 'NDIY' infers you haven't used it it yet

Vive la JBW

Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 05/06/2022 09:45:41

Well said tug! I get fed up with folk eg when op asks about a specific problem with machine or tool to get the reply posting” I havnt used, got xxxxx but…”.

Ok poster, belt up…..

Some people talk plain rubbish. Especially when they don’t actually know.

Yes, I have watched some of his videos. Fair tests? Not in my book! He doesn’t seem to know what a fair test actually is. I’ve certainly not watched all his videos - I will not waste my time doing that.

Yes, I have used JB weld. Good stuff for the purposes I have used it for.

My cringe was that of using that particular youtuber as supplying information fit for purpose.

I don’t comment unless I have an opinion. After a lifetime of repairing things I generally know what is needed to make a good repair. If I don’t, there are plenty around that I can turn to for help.

That you are convinced - good. Some are easily convinced. I’m not, so don’t expect me to agree with what that bloke shows on his videos. His videos are no better than quite a few I could mention, but won’t.

Edited By not done it yet on 05/06/2022 10:56:11

I've always sworn by Araldite ever since I successfully used it to refix the block used to open & close the side windows on my A35 van. From memory, this block was about 50mm x 12mm. The windows slid up and down in a guide channel. I would describe both window & block as glass, but what type of glass? Well, that's anyone's guess, but it was transparent. This was probably about 1965.

Generally I have found Araldite reasonably reliable and has been my go to glue ever since, but that doesn't mean that JBWeld, or indeed any other epoxy glue isn't better. However, I was mildly surprised to see the colour of the two constituents and the resulting mixed colour. From what I remember, these are the same, or similar colours of Araldite Steel which claims to be the strongest of the three Araldite glues readily available (Rapid, Normal, Steel). This makes me wonder about the relative strengths between JBWeld & Araldite Steel.

One point about Araldite - apparently its strength is improved by gentle heating. I seem to remember Tubal Cain (T D. Walshw) commenting on this and saying that he left glued items on top of a storage heater overnight.

Interesting subject though.

Peter G. Shaw

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 05/06/2022 11:02:07

Wrong key!

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 05/06/2022 11:06:57

As said in my original post Peter I have long been an advocate of JB Weld and particularly it's use in fabricating 'castings' from scratch.

When I have done so there has been the odd remark of doubt and concern that it may not be adequate for the task over other products but - following my own tests well described on Model Engine Maker at the time I am well convinced that it more than lives up to it's attributes. The one thing it has over Araldite and other similar products is it's ability to retain it's strength at a relatively high temperature - well over saturated steam at 60 psi for instance.

I posted the link as one of interest as it certainly shows it's comparative strength over others, something my own tests have shown.

On my last engine build I used it as as a substitute for silver solder on all inlet and exhaust pipework. This meant all the pipework could be erected in situ without the need to remove and silver solder off the job which of course given the nature of the pipework involved would have required several jigs too.

Like most things JBW will have it's limitations but to my mind it is an exceptional and versatile product that only has to be used to be appreciated.

NDIY - I have not viewed anything else that that person has posted and yes, maybe 'one swallow doesn't make a summer', but to dismiss something before even watching it is not exactly conclusive.

What the video did for me was show just how strong this product is - why not swallow those prejudices and take a look with an open mind - instead of castigating the guy overall you might be surprised to see his results.

 Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 05/06/2022 11:29:37

Iv'e watched a fair number of his videos & he seems fair enough in his tests, not sure if he is sponsored, that would be a big no no on his type of reviews.

Tony

Might a fairer comparison of different synthetic-resin adhesives and fillers be simply by the applications advice given in their "operating instructions"? The manufacturers can't be expected to reveal too much but the Safety Data Sheets may be a guide to further comparing chemical and temperature resistance.

If anything I would suggest poor results with a product from a reputable manufacturer, more often than not are from poor use by the buyer. Manufacturers often say so, though a bit more diplomatically, in their small print!

It is vital we consider what we are using the adhesive for. It would be very unfair to blame it for failing if we subjected it to conditions outside of its advertised range, even if the manufacturer has allowed an unstated safety factor. Anyway as we all know, a safety factor is not an invitation to exceed the specified working maximum.

If the application approaches the adhesive's temperature limit we may need consider its ability to cope with the expansion and contraction of the surrounding metal; and this is deeply specific to the project's design.

'

The filler types, like JB Weld, are synthetic resin adhesives mixed with granular or powdered binding agents, typically a metal or soft stone. These would affect the mechanical behaviour but might not affect the safe temperature range and chemical resistance, for example; although once cured from a correct mix these materials are remarkably inert within their safe temperature ranges. (Acetone will dissolve uncured resin, but dissolving the cured resins needs some pretty nasty compounds B&Q might not stock!)

At my work we used our own version for certain purposes, that blended slate powder of flour texture, with a low-viscosity 'Araldite' mix; in a recipe that had been tested properly for the right characteristics for the specific use. (I wonder if plain talcum-powder might work for a "home-developed" filler for some uses. Talc is a complex magnesium silicate, a mineral possibly among those typically mixed up naturally in slate.)
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I have not seen the video cited so can't comment on it, but as a general rule I would want to know if its creator is using the product as its own makers intend, in an application appropriate to it; and his working methods look convincing. Or of course, if the video is not simply a thinly-disguised advertisement!

Certainly shows what we have known for along time that it's strong stuff. As he says at the end a test of similar 2 part products would have been interesting such as testing it against say Araldite and a Devcon product. As Ramon mentions a heat test would have been worth including as that is one of the bonuses of the original formula JBWeld over some of the other 2-part products

I certainly use Gorilla glue and the Titebond equivalent products as well as PU construction adhesive which is similar to the Loctite one in the video. All have their uses and strengths (sorry) I just use the one that best suits the job in hand and if its sticking bits of engines together then JBW is the usual one though Araldite does get a look in where something a little less critical has to be joined

I do watch Project Farm on youtube.

For what it's worth, I think that his tests are good, I don't know of anywhere else that you could see tests on everyday tools etc.

I think that the comment about "has to be made in the USA" is plain rubbish, watch the videos and then comment.

The other comment about "talking plain rubbish" I couldn't agree more.....

Jim

Hi Tug,

I watched the video, and the one thing that stood out to me, was that it appeared to be designed to show JB Weld in a positive light. In other words it came across as a poorly designed advertising gimmick. Mind you, it's not helped by the fact that more and more I am becoming suspicious of US of A motives. But then, that's me.

Another thing that I disliked was the way the tests were done. I have always understood that the strength of any joint lay in how the joint was mechanically designed with the glue being there to prevent movement and stop the joint coming apart. So, for example, in the wood spar test, two pieces of wood butted together and glued simply would not be done in practice. Either a dovetail joint or a series of V shaped cuts (which allows for a much increased area for gluing) would be better. And even then I would use PVA rather than epoxy. Similarly, the idea of gluing bolt heads on to a metal bar is not one which I would ever do. Instead, I would drill & tap and insert from the other side, possibly using a countersunk or a recessed screw head. And follow up if necessary with something like Studlock.

In respect of high temperature and/or high pressure, I must bow to your superior knowledge - high temperature to me is anything too hot to hold, whilst high pressure is anything higher than my car/caravan tyres, 34/52 psi respectively!

As I said, I was struck by the similar colouring of JB Weld to Araldite Super Steel. Apparently JB Weld includes powdered metal, as, I believe, does Araldite Super Steel. Which makes me wonder just how far apart these two glues are in performance. I believe a better test, and certainly of more interest to me, would be to see a series of tests comparing JB Weld, the three versions of Araldite (Rapid, Standard & Super Steel), Evostik Epoxy & the epoxies sold by RS Components under their own brand name. Plus any other epoxies which are readily available on the retail market.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

Hello Peter,

Yes I would agree the tests are relatively simplistic and perhaps a 'degree' (TiC) unscientific in structure but did, for me, serve to show it's strength - in comparison to the other products. 'Gluing' the butt ends of two pieces of timber, or tile for that matter is hardly likely to be encountered in real life situations. I confess I did not watch it through to the bolts on the bar but to the point where the plastic tube withheld the considerable amount of weight. Cynically, I suppose it could be perceived as an advert for JBW possibly with internal reinforcing from the other end being retracted but then if one has to doubt anything and everything these days there is only one real factor and that is to try it oneself. Then, of course, it can be reported on for others to doubt

I've been sticking things together since about five years old - began with glue made from flour if I remember right but moved on to Secotine followed by balsa cement then various woodworking glues and PVA's through epoxies from Araldite onwards and of course the various anaerobic and cyano acrylate adhesives.

Mostly all have performed well - for their respective tasks - but those that stand out as exceptional products over that time are Plastic Padding 'Super Epoxy' - sadly no longer available, TiteBond 3 Woodworking glue and JBW - It has to be said I would use none of those to do the task of the other!

The tests I carried out on JBW were for myself. They were not to compare it to other products but to test it under pressure that it would be exposed to in the application I desired and considerably beyond that too. That was then repeated under heated (boiling water) conditions. Again a non scientific and non laboratory approach I agree but enough to prove to myself and others that it would do the job as was intended for (by me that is)

Long before I discovered JBW I made RC thermal gliders for a quite a few years. The only product considered strong enough in the wing joiners was the standard 24 hour Araldite. This would be heated to thin it to a runny consistency to allow it to flow in and around the wing joiner tubes the heating serving a second purpose in that the curing time was considerably reduced. I don't think I would have considered JBW as an alternative had it been available as the Araldite was much more the product for the job.

I first used JBW on glow engine silencers - it did (and still does) stand up to the heat whereas Araldite had soon failed due to the temperatures involved. I have not used the metal filled Araldite products but have the Loctite and Devcon versions - whilst both worked favourably I don't think I would build a cylinder with it as I have JB

I don't actually 'follow' You tube videos - I just happened to see this one and thought it worth mentioning. I guess as I approach the end of my model engineering days it's time to shut up and hand over to the next generation

Regards - Tug

I have watched many of his comparison videos over time. He always takes the simple approach that any one can replicate. What they do show, if you watch a few of them, is what to use for your application. One product is not suitable for all events.

The "original" variety of JB Weld would be even better if it came in shades other than dark grey. Wood-coloured shades would be particularly useful. Sadly, KwikWood and WoodWeld, though you might think they fit the bill, don't have the same desirable properties as the original JB Weld.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 05/06/2022 17:05:11

Tug,

Disagree with the "it's time to shut up and hand over to the next generation" comment. Yes, I know that I am slowing up, but not yet to the extent that I cannot learn something new. What does bug me is that life today is so much more complicated that it was 50 years ago. Fortunately, my style of model engineering hasn't changed!

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw