HE30/6082 Aluminium alloy

Hi All,

I have a Sherline lathe for which I am currently designing a topslide, I don't like the one offered by sherline but that's another story.

I would like to make it from aluminium alloy and thought that HE30/6082 may be a suitable choice.

It will be a traditional vee slide arrangment using a suitable gib strip and adjustment screws.

Anyone thoughts opinions are welcome. I'm ok with the mechanics of it all it's principally advice on materials that I'm looking for, including the gib strip.

Thanks Geoff

Cast iron would be my material of choice.

Tony

I agree with Tony cast iron would be my choice also, it's as easy to machine as aluminium and will be longer lasting than 6082.

You may want to consider one of the tooling plate aluminiums such as 5083, more suitable than 6082 for your task.

Emgee

Cast iron would be my material of choice.

On a Sherline ?

Which are predominantly manufactured from aluminium. I have seen suggested that Sherline use 6061, but do not know for certain.

Nigel B.

The hard anodising of the Sherline parts allows them to slide where bare aluminium may pick up and gall so I would be wary or running another uncoated metal against the existing carriage.

If you intend running two aluminium surfaces together with a close fit you will soon have a problem with embedded metal dust and also run a very high risk of "cold welding " the surfaces together. Colin

If you get it Hard anodised, it will work well. Another upgrade is the use of thin Turcite in the gib as well. There was someone offering Acetyl gib upgrades for both the Sherline and Taig lathes a few years ago. 6082 is a nice stable easy to cut alloy that also anodises very well. Some are making their own top slide that incorporates the tool holder in the block to take the standard shank insert tooling as well.

Be nice to see what you make if you can share images of the build.

The type of alloy used to be hard anodized is critical.

Hard anodising gives best results on 6061 or 6082 alloys, but 6000 and 7000 series aluminium is generally suitable for hard anodising. Hard anodising is possible on 5000 series alloys, but properties such as wear resistance will be compromised. 1000 series are suitable for hard anodising, but may exhibit some crazing which is an expected part of the process.

I have been involved in a few prodjects with hard Anodising from discs for brakes on racing motor bikes to cores for moulding plastic parts. Have a talk with the Anodising company before making part.

David

Following on from what David George 1 said, HARD anodising is a whole different ball game compared to cosmetic or ordinary "anodising". Hard anodising would be perfect for your application, but you may have to save up all your pocket money!!

Personally I would further investigate the use of cast iron..............

By the way, if you get the parts hard anodised be prepared for some dimensional change.  The people doing the process should be able to advise on this.

cheers

Best of luck!!

Bill

Edited By Bill Pudney on 22/01/2022 00:00:18

Hi Guys,

Apologies for the delay in replying, life has been somewhat hectic!

your comments have been of interest and of course informative, for which I thank you.

Yes Bill you're right, hard anodising is pricey. I made an enquiry at a company nearby and was surprised how much it may cost for such a small item.

I'm still proceeding with the same design and yes Neil I will post some pictures.

Looks like it may be a "bitsa", of different materials, keeping the cost down but still having a reliable working slide (hopefully).

Cheers Geoff

Hi All,

A long time coming but here it is a top slide for my sherline lathe. Based on the unimat 3 design, works well I'm pleased with it.

If interested there are full details in the December MEW.

Thank you, Neil.

Geoff

I have made parts in 6082 T6 for my Taig and Shoreline in the past and home anodised them and they have stood up to my usage, and if sliding on sherline parts they will be hard anodised.

The cost of the aluminium and having it hard anodised would be more than using cast iron. If the mating part is also aluminium, then keep the joint well lubricated.

Geoff Walker's picture shows an aluminium frame, but the moving parts are steel, by the look of them.

Edited By old mart on 23/11/2022 21:24:13

I made a larger, heavier duty top slide for the mini lathe I had. It was to improve rigidity which it certainly did and I went with cast iron and brass gib stribs. I considerd aluminium but thought cast iron not only offers a much higher rigidity but also a lot more mass for the same given size.

.

… and, as the man wrote : If interested there are full details in the December MEW.

MichaelG.

Hi Michael

Thanks for the "thumbs up"

I abandoned the idea of a hard anodised slide on practical as well as economic grounds.

I did however seek to avoid any ferrous materials being used that came into contact with the cross slide.

The low profile unimat slide design is perfect for sherline where vertical space is at a premium.

I notice that proxon lathes also use the same design

Geoff