Taper reaming

Hi,

First post so hello to all.

I have a 3/32" pin I need to change to a tapered pin, not sure what size I need.?.

Will a 7/64" do or do I need to go to 1/8" size for pin and reamer.

Thanks for any info.

Martin

As you imply the small end of the reamed hole will need to be greater than 3/32" so you need to check a tapered reamer chart sizes for a suitable reamer.

Emgee

Quick search found these, looks like metric has wider choice of sizes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HSS-Taper-Pin-Reamer-Metric-Imperial-2mm-2-5mm-3mm-3-5mm-4mm-4-5mm-5mm-1-8-1-4-/264938005021?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjwmeiIBhA6EiwA-uaeFZ56PLdzljjnlfYGFrtjwwB0l7C0nyPfSgOyuVj_fn1OZxtamzii7RoCJDoQAvD_BwE

Edited By Emgee on 16/08/2021 13:59:11

The taper is probably more important than the actual size (as long as greater than the current hole). A tapered pin with a 2.5 mm minimum could suffice. Different taper to imperial, mind. The wide end of the tapered pin (so the overall length of it) needs to be catered for.

Misread your post

Edited By Phil H1 on 16/08/2021 14:23:32

Thanks for the info/help

Changing the 3/32" pin's that hold the crank on the shaft of a Stuart twin Victoria , just so they are a lot easier to remove.

Looks like 1/8" pin and reamer will be the one to go with, taper pin needs to cover 3/4" depth, going with a 1" pin OK?

Just to digress..

I've never used a tapered reamer, so is the correct procedure to assemble the parts and then ream the hole in both at the same time? I'm assuming it must be, but never been told this or seen it written anywhere.

Thanks,

Rob

I'm the same never used a taper reamer before, so I'd like to know as well Rob. I'll be going through cast/steel/cast, think I'll have a trial run on steel first

Ream both parts assembled together. If more than one pin is needed on one shaft they should both be reamed from the same side.

Thanks Roy

When I’ve fitted mine it has been after loctiting parts together. Choice of loctite grade is up to me. If it is intended to be permanent, a stronger grade is chosen.

I value my reamers so tend to step drill to reduce the metal that needs to be cut away with the reamer. But I’ve yet to pin anything under an inch diameter…

Here you go:-

Great info thanks, love those old vids always clear concise information.

Really looking forward to trying this now.

+1 on what Martin said.

Thanks

Rob

Funnily enough, all these years I've just realised I've never used a taper reamer either, but will almost certainly need to soon. Thank you.

Be careful when reaming with a tapered reamer,the flutes quickly fill with swarf so withdraw the reamer to clear the swarf more frequently than when using parallel reamers. use a lubricant when reaming,sluble oil,lubricating oil,or in tough materials Rocol helps,

What a superb video as posted by Nick. No excess verbiage or ego that accompanies modern offerings.

Mick

I noticed that modern vids can be hugely verbose and they ALL do it, especially the USA vids

I think that the longer your page is viewed- the more advertising there is- and the more income you make

So there's tons of useless fluff and a snippet of useful at the end

.

I’m sure you are right, Ady

But also note that this film would have been an expensive production compared with the typical video ‘tutorial’

MichaelG.

"I noticed that modern vids can be hugely verbose and they ALL do it, especially the USA vids"

MANY generated on this side of the pond can challenge that.

Regards Ian.