Member postings for Phil H1

Thanks Rex, sounds like fun. Ian did warn me about Rob Roy maintenance issues at the rally but I bet that most of the other engine designs are a bag of maintenance delights also.

Phil H

I have a question about the Rob Roy ashpan. I bought, the stainless steel, laser cut ashpan from ME laser. The drawing has a dump pin to allow the ashpan to drop but it looks like it will be a very tight awkward fit - specially around the rear axle. So my question is really how easily the pan drops out and if I fit the boiler, can the ashpan really be slotted up into position whilst the rear axle is in place?

Thanks.

Really nice work Ryan.

I am almost exactly at this stage (the reversing arm for my Rob Roy). Does anybody have a picture of their reversing arm showing how the tiny spring is attached. The details on drawings and description appear to be a bit flimsy. Perhaps it is easier than I imagine?

Phil H

Baz,

Thanks again, another great answer. I think my plan is now to obviously try to complete my Rob Roy but I will go down to my local club and have a chat with some of the members to help guide me towards a second locomotive.

One of the local club members suggested Sweet Pea. I am sure it is a very successful and relatively simple design but I think I would prefer to build something closer to a real engine regarding its appearance. As you say, you need to build what you want. If nothing else, to keep you focused.

Thanks once again.

Phil H

Thanks Baz for your input. I really appreciate it - comments like yours are very helpful.

I hope you dont mind me asking more. I would imagine that the engines like Doris etc might struggle because of the lack of weight across the axles but do you have the same feeling when it comes to larger 3 1/2" gauge engines - perhaps like 2-6-4 Jubilee by Martin Evans. It looks quite large and has the side tanks. Is there really much difference in performance and lack of adhesion between say Jubilee versus Simplex or Butch?

Phil H

Has anybody run something like a Bantom Cock and can they comment on its performance. I am interested to know because I am over half way through a Rob Roy. I know the performance of a Rob Roy can be a challenge so I am already looking for a second engine when I have finished.

I have two possible routes. The first being a version of Betty (similar size to Bantom Cock). I have castings etc to build one - or even use many of the castings I have to build a bigger tank engine like William. The second option is to build something maybe a bit heavier like a Butch or even a 5" gauge Rob Roy.

I guess my question is that as Rob Roy is a little bit small and light, would I regret the many hours building another 3 1/2 gauge engine?

Phil H

Norm,

I think, as you suggest in your question that the axes were identified way, way before the modern DROs. I dumped some very old workshop manuals a good few years ago and I am sure the axes were identified then. My guess is that it will go back well before WW1 when they had semi automatic machines and probably way before that. Whether the DROs for lathes follow the old labelling, I am not sure.

Phil H

Ray,

I notice that nobody has been able to help. You might have more success on the proboards, model engineering clearing house website. Just google model engineering and it won;t be very far down your search.

The proboards site appears to attract more 'steam locomotive' type people.

Phil H

Chris,

I agree with the centre height comment above but a few other points (I would say that your photo angle is tricky to see how far below your tool point is);

The metal you have used looks like a component rather than a new piece of bar (I'm looking at the recess at the other end). Perhaps you are trying to turn something that is quite rough and or hard? A fresh piece of known bar might help.

Are you aware of the correct speeds and maybe depth of cuts - or are these your next questions?

Some of your tools look like high speed steel (HSS). Do you have a bench grinder and or have you ever used one before. If you stick with HSS, you are likely to need one.

Is a ball race strictly necessary? I would have thought that a plain, bronze washer would have been adequate?

Phil H

Excellent stuff. Looking forward to this.

Bob,

That looks like an incredible transformation from here. How much did it cost in Scotchbrite? Serious question.... what was the cost for paint and parts etc? That is well worth knowing for others.

Phil H

Rex, Thanks for the prompt answer. If yours has lasted 30 years, that is good enough for me. I'll skip the case hardening.

I can fix some of the parts. For example, the expansion links are gauge plate and were noticeably hard. I heated up to bright red and cooled as slowly as possible before drilling the various holes in them. They are both now harder than the other mild steel parts but I suspect less brittle than they were. I will leave them in that condition and use gunmetal or bronze for the die blocks rather then the suggested mild steel.

Hmm - not that far from a running chassis excluding the pumps.

Phil H

Another question for experienced locomotive and or any other stationary engine builders please.

I have now completed most of the valve gear parts and Mr Evans suggests that the various rod ends (including their nicely reamed 1/8" diameter holes) should be case hardened.

Is this a step that I really should go through with or will the plain mild steel parts last a reasonable time without case hardening? Am I asking for trouble if I don't case harden?

Thanks,

Phil H

Bob,

Another way of looking at this is that somebody must have used the machine before it went red with rust. So any correction to the bed and slideways might not be perfect but it will probably be better than it was.

By the way, I have noticed you are slacking a bit. When are you going to paint the lettering on the belt guards?

Phil H

Dave,

I was trying to address your original snag regarding the machining of a tricky radial slot underneath the eccentric i.e., if you used rectangular pads underneath each of the parts that bolt down to the baseplate, the eccentric would be higher up and hence no need for a clever curved slot. Easier to describe with a sketch.

Phil H

Pete,

Thanks for that explanation. I was assuming that the underside of the saddle was checked for flatness first but the rolling of a fingerprint is a good way of explaining the possible snag.

Bob, that looks like it has cleaned up very nicely. Slightly better than a boat anchor now isn't it?

Phil H

Can somebody please help on this bit? I can see how the saddle might have worn but I am not clear why there would be a problem with it if it 'mates' with the new flattened bed (using engineers blue).

Phil H

Perhaps too late maybe? Another alternative to the curved slot underneath the eccentric would have been to add some 'pads' underneath all the other parts. A simple mod if it is planned out at the start though.

Phil H

Really nice work.