Up and over door seal

As far as weatherproofing is concerned my "main" (tiny) workshop is OK but I do have to keep a certain amount of stuff in the garage which has an up and over door. During periods of heavy rain the up and over garage door lets in water as there is no seal at the bottom. I would like to fit a threshold seal whilst the weather is reasonable. Any recommendations will be appreciated.

Mick

I've got one of these on my door works but the threshold needs to be flat *** Screwfix *** you can also get a rubber strip that fixes to the floor and provides a stop for the door to butt up to. Loads on the interweb a quick Google will show plenty...

John

Edited By Journeyman on 30/07/2019 09:09:53

Unless the water drains away, I doubt a seal is the best option. On my first garage, I made a raised mortar hump just behind where the door closed to. It at least prevented ingress past the door.

Second one, the base was made with a slope away from the garage across the door opening. Never been a problem.

It was only occasional driving rain which was a problem for the first. I think I drilled a hole through the base, at the lowest point, for the occasionally needed drainage

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This for UP and Over door floor seal Here

I got a rubber seal from the firm who supplied the door, can't remember who, it must be 25 years back. I do get an ingress of water at the sides when it's windy

Roy

Given that most rain (and leaves) only comes in when wind driven, I pop rivetted brush pile draught excludr around the bottom and side inside edges of my garage doors. This accommodates uneven concrete surface and 'wobble' of the door within the frame better than rubber seals do. It is not 100% watertight but keeps dampness to within 50mm of the frame where it came in 300mm or more previously.

Screwfix seal linked above worked for me

+1 for the flexible, glued down, "hump" strips. Had rubber cable cover type one on my Portaldoor, OK that was an up and out not up and over door but same behaviour at the bottom, for decades which worked very well.

Tried DIY of the hanging rubber strip type but found it needs a decent gap to permit flexing during initial opening and final close. If it touches the ground it reverses during a close / open cycle. I only had about 1/8" gap which overstressed things. Unfortunately the heavy rain wind direction was straight at the door so even 1/8" let a lot of water in.

Clive

I have a panel-lift type door on my garage which is similar to an up and over at the bottom. Providing a water tight seal at the bottom of the door where it meets the floor is difficult. They are not precision parts and therefore not water tight.

To overcome the leakage, I made the height of the floor under the door about 10mm lower than the main garage floor with a slight fall to the outside. Any water that seaps under the door door is drained away.

Paul.

I have a strip of the damp proof plastic membrane that bricklayers use fixed to the bottom inside face of my up and over garage doors. I used self tappers and washers to fix. Very flexible, weather-proof and cheap as chips. Works a treat for keeping out wind blown rain and leaves.

Mike

On my last 'Garage Workshop' I did pretty much the same as Mike above except I used a 5 inch wide thin rubber sheet pop rivetted to the insude edge of the door. When the door closed the rubber floded itself under the door and extended 4 ish inches beyond the front face creating a skirt that directed all the wet of the concrete cill and into the gulley in front of it.

regards Martin

I sealed the bottom of my up and over door in the last house. The car rusted the wings and doors, presumably because the damp air could not escape easily.

The door at our current house is unsealed, and over 40 years we have never had a problem with the cats rusting, or even staying wet.

The brush sealing should be good, in that it will prevent water ingress, it will be permeable, so that moist air can escape.

Failing that, why not a shallow lip inside the door, (Aluminium angle fixed to the floor, say 30 -40 mm high?

Howard

I had a brush seal but it was useless as the water just goes through the brush. i now have a 100mm piece of damp proof membrane fitted to the door ,faced with a 20 mm wide strip of aluminium to clamp it to the door. There is still a small leak each end but the DPM has been left a little long & I have cut notches in the frame to accept this, so leakage is really very small

The best solution would be a piece of timber plugged & screwed to the floor inside, on a bed of mastic, to form a simple rebate. This would catch any water running down the door jambs, as well as under the door

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FAT fingers, should be CARS.

The cats dry themselves! The muddy footprints over everything prove that!

No rust yet seen on the Adept Shaper and mini lathe that also live beside the car in the garage.

Howard

Thanks gents. Very useful.

Mick

Its worthwhile checking the door construction.
Mine has a channel section all round the door edge and at the bottom it fills with wind blown rain which then overflows from the channel and spills over inside the garage. Not easy to cure!
I tried drain holes in the bottom channel but these gather debris and are high maintenance.

Bob D

I stopped water ingress by grinding a narrow channel in the floor parallel to the back bottom edge of the door and inserting a metal strip (1/4" x 3/4" into the slot so it was proud of floor by 1/4". The door then sealed against this. It stopped a certain amount of wind and most of water unless torrential rain, in which case it was running like a river down the drive towards the house. Made it a bit awkward getting trolley jack over the lip but this was a small price to pay.

Colin