Suitable wood for making tool holders

Hi,

I have purchased an automatic boring and facing head. Unfortunately, the storage box has been "butchered" by a previous owner. One of the removable shelves is missing and a support for the boring head shank has been removed. To stop various items rolling around, I would like to make a replacement shelf and support.  I know that using Oak is not not recommended, what timber, available in the UK would members recommend me to use?

Thanks for any advise offered,

GordonH

Edited By GordonH on 25/06/2019 17:06:01

If you can get hold of elm it is among the least acidic, according to this.

Thor

Ordinary softwood. For added rust avoidance rub the contact points with a candle.

I have a swiss made Kaiser boring and facing head in original fitted case. I could never be described as an expert "woodman" but if I were to guess I would say it was made from beech.

Rik

Unless you wish it to be "proper" wood, you could use a good-quality plywood. Sand all the edges and give it a thorough sealing with polyurethane varnish or similar.

The problem with oak is that it is rather acidic and corrodes iron and steel.

My past employers used to use a lot of special-to-contents boxes, and some of these were lovely examples of plywood art, with some parts like equipment cradles laminated plywood-on-plywood enabling ready inclusion of rebates and flanges; and all heavily treated with exterior-grade varnish. I used similar techniques for parts of the computer desk I am typing at now!

Avoid all woods that hvea lot of tanin in them as stated above a good quality py wood will be ideal. Beech is a good one as well

All of the Chinese and Indian sets of tools I have, come in pine boxes which are varnished. I have some Mitutoyo measuring instruments in cedar boxes.

Do toolmakers chests rely on the felt lining to avoid contact with the wood? Gerstner seem to make chests from a variety of woods including American Oak. Oak seems to come in quite a few flavours, one piece I had was noticeably heavy compared to other oaks and hardwoods.

Mike

Beech for me - machines well and doesn't corrode tools.

Small, useful pieces usually available on *bay at reasonable prices.

Beech ,or elm ( difficult to get now ) , sycamore is ok to work with too. Seal it with lots of varnish or tung oil to seal the wood.

If you can find it, nurizaya wood might be the best choice. It is used for storing valuable Japanese sword blades to avoid corrosion.

Russell

Bits of old mahogany furniture seem to work well.

Better than burning it!

Neil