Member postings for Dalboy

What with making the crankshaft the next part was drilling and reaming for the main bearing, as well as making the bearings which was not so bad.

Anyway this job was done without any problems but I did spend a little time setting up to do this task.

All done and fitted just a little clean up now to get rid of some marks. I do need to ream the bearings again as the caps pinch it very slightly rather this than too loose.

What with gardening and cooking yesterday, I always cook a special meal on a Saturday for the wife to give her a day off. Nothing got done on the engine.

Today started a lot better so I took my time as there is a lot of work to restart the crankshaft if I mess up.
Drilled and pined the second conrod bearing and cleaned that up and as can be seen the pins disappeared

The main shaft was loctited in at the correct spacings before drilling and taper reaming for the tappered pins as I did with the first shaft once again cleaned up and no sign that they have been pinned. I don't want it coming apart

The job I was not looking forward to is machining two 1/8" keyways the longest one is 1/2" long This was done using a 3/32" slotting cutter so was very slow as too much pressure on that would snap it like a twig. This meant that I had to machine down the centre and then widen it with a cut down each side

Final job was to cut and machine away the main shaft that passed between the two crank webs. At least that is the crankshaft completed

If I only had the skill to reproduce this as it is something different. Even so I enjoyed seeing it run(in the video"

Will THIS work

Been busy with the last part of the con rod and that is a bronze big end split bearing. The small dots are there to make sure that when it is taken apart to assemble the complete model they stay in the correct orientation

Then it is onto the crankshaft assembly, the plans show it mad from a single piece of steel but I have decided to make it up from two small pieces and some silver steel.

First was to make the two webs made easy by the use of a small home made stop which worked a treat.

Turning the raised sections as well as the curve on both ends I had to do this set up 4 times two for each piece

After the part being deburred I am pleased with the result

All the parts for the crank shaft assembly

A dry fit to check everything was in line. I have left the main shaft in one piece until it is finally fitted together. I will locktite them in and also drill for a tapered pin in each of the joins. The two pieces at the top of the photo are just machined to the correct width for the gap in the middle.

Still more to do to this once it is finally fitted together

How about trying these mops being loose leaf will enable it to clean in the thread. Pick a fine one so not to round over the edges too much

Unless the shows are spread out a bit more then what do they expect I find that what I would save from having to travel the distance to a show I can spend online to buy goods, I am sure that I am not the only one.

I should add that it is catch22

The only thing that I would miss out on is seeing some of the exhibits

Edited By Dalboy on 27/09/2023 17:37:40

If you watch from about 18:30 this is how this chap makes his.

Edited By Dalboy on 22/09/2023 11:02:37

Took a break from the main components today and made a start on the main oiler for the engine as I had some test tubes arrive for some single flower pots I will be turning from wood, before I do them I needed a small length of one of them for the oiler.

Most of this is from brass the first photo is a part assembled oiler. There needs to be a control needle and a sprung piece to stop it turning as well as a nut and obviously the glass.



This photo is the parts made so far except those which need to be made as above.

I am enjoying working with brass. The two discs which form the top and bottom of the oiler are just over 3/4" diameter to give an idea of the size

I also prepared some bronze for the big end bearing no photos

I do like the second and third idea with the double scissor assembly as this will give the best stability when fully raise unlike the cheap blue one where the scissor assembly ends up to one side

Is it just me or are any of you noticing that many of them now are becoming just a selling platform so they can get free items from a supplier.

I use to subscribe to some of them but have now unsubscribed from those that keep doing this.

If I want to watch adverts(that is really what they are) then I will watch tv instead of working in the workshop

Thank you guys but have now found some 3/16"UNF ordered. The main thing was that I have made some parts using my one I have as well as making some male threads, but this one part has a shallow hole which needs to be threaded right to the bottom.

With all the taps and die sets and loose ones that I own there are still some that I need

Thank you Jason I am so use to using the imperial sizes when going down below 1/4" but that was many moons ago, and have only come across the numbering system like the 10-32tpi system with the modeling side of things.

I have a set of UNF taps and dies but the problem is there are no bottoming taps and the size that I need I only have one so do not want to shorten it to make a bottoming tap other wise I will not have one that is a starter tap

Looking around for a 3/16" bottoming tap I keep coming up with either none available but they show a 10-32 which is 0.002" larger than the 3/16" is this compatible.

Thank you everyone not a lot to show for today just odd bits and pieces that are not worth looking at. I am waiting for some more material to turn up.

Got a message that they would be here today, then another saying they would not manage today but "will be here next working day" followed by Oh we have not collected them from your supplier. Lets see what tomorrow brings

Got around to getting the con rod complete first part was to mount it on the platter that I made and set it up to mill out the recess I had to do this 4 times total because of the taper.

The next up was to slim down the big end cap as it was too large. The screw that you can see in the big end is not a mistake but designed to be like that when I make the big end bearing I have to make a cut out on both sides to allow for them. Also seen is the little end bearing which is a tight fit. Final job was to make the cut out for the little end bearing oil way which can be seen in the second photo along with the oil hole for the big end.

Not sure if THESE are the same type of thing as they say they are used to produce a satin finish on metal. Have been thinking of trying them if anyone has any experience of them.

I also looked at the M3 ones and found them expensive

I think you are confusing the two between my head assembly and that of Jasons.

I should really complete the con rod but as I was away the weekend I thought something small before resuming on that. So I found the oilers for the crank shaft bearings and started on the first of the two, made from brass. I still need to drill out the larger hole in the top but that will wait until I have got the second one to this stage before I drill and tap a piece of metal on the lathe to screw these into to do that operation.

They do not show any caps for these but I may make a couple of them later on.

I did have a go at grinding my first form tool for the outside shape and pleased the way that and the oiler looks.

I did a stall at the Woodfest at the weekend and just down from me was this made from lots of old tools and other pieces of scrap metalwork like paraffin blowtorches and even a fire extinguisher. .

Sorry about the finger in the picture as I was not using my normal camera