Siezed Drill Chuck in a Tailstock

So I have a Drummond and have stripped out the tailstock the downside is that it has a Drill chuck seized in it and alas does not have a facility to use a drawbar. I have tried heat, cold. penetrating oils all to no avail. Has anyone got any ideas?

My next will be soak in derv over the weekend.

I would make a couple of spacers to go between the tailstock body and the back of the chuck and then use the feedscrew and handwheel to try and push the chuck out.

Or you could try to use some very shallow wedges between the chuck and the tailstock casting driving them together

Failing that make and fit a cap /pipe that goes over the chuck and can go against the casting

then through the end of the pipe insert a threaded bar/rod and secure it in the chuck

at the other end simply fit a large washer over the end of the pipe and run a nut onto it and jack it off

all good fun

You can buy wedges for separating tapers from drill chucks. I'd try some of those first and if the chuck parts company from its taper leaving it in the tailstock barrel, I'd resign myself to buying a new taper and getting a good grip on the old one in a vice before applying some brute force.

Roger, Thanks for this but I tried that in the very first instance and nothing it just locks up. I suppose I could put stilsons on the hand wheel but think that's a tad brutish for such an old lady.

OK. Another option (which was done on my brother's slightly later version of the same lathe) is to drill through the quill from the handwheel end which allows the use of a 'knocking out' bar.

or you could make some.

Edited By capnahab on 10/01/2019 15:02:11

Roger,

I did start the idea of drilling through but can you remember how deep it was before you broke through with your brothers machine ? I think I drilled about 1/4" but still solid ?

Ian

This is going back a long time but I think it was quite deep, 25-30mm. If you have a MT1 something with a tang on it it will give you an idea of how deep the taper in the quill is.

Does the chuck still work?

Stick a milling endmill in it and do a bit of side milling (with zero load on the tip)

watch yourself when it drops free, (much safer with a 1mm drop gap)

99% chance it will free itself

else the barrel is warped/damaged

Edited By Ady1 on 10/01/2019 15:38:22

Andy,

The lathe does not work at present its part one of the restoration project.

Roger,

Yes that does seen to be deep I will have a thing on that one.

Having looked at the wedges idea I have a ball joint splitter that maybe will work just need to protect the tailstock.

It was a small hope

Okay. Plan B.

Don't use a hammer system, use a pusher or puller system that tensions the stuck joint, the forks system as above looks good

Get reasonable tension, then leave it for a while

If nothing happens for half an hour, up the tension a bit more

This means only the minimum force necessary to do the job will get it done

GL

Hi Ian on my M type I have a 3/8 clearance hole through the rear and I use a piece of silver steel to drift out the Morse taper. If you were to drill the reverse with a drill it should come to the point where the tang is and you could drift it out with a bar. Look at the pictures in my new album M type tailstock.

You can see though spindle and drift is about 5 inch deep to end of taper part.

David

David

Never come across this, but what about a kettle of boiling water poured over the quill?

If you use wedges or some pulling arrangement ,ensure that it engages between the back of the chuck and the tailstock barrel,if the force is exerted against the tailstock casting, the resultant force will be applied to the screw and nut of the tailstock resulting in lots of damage,ie the screw,or the nut which is just pressed into the inner end of the the barrel(Myford),The opposed pairs of wedges work well,a single wedge with its unequal leverage could in the extreme bend the drill chuck arbour.

Ian,

I had the same problem, I put the barrel into our Freezer and left it for a week to soak, I then removed it and heated the barrel quickly with a lot of heat hit the barrel with a sharp tap and it came off.

Martin P

Eureka1 tap with the ball joint splitter and it came apart BUT yes there always is the depth of the hole is only 2 1/2 inches deep so need to drill right through. Anyone near Chatham able to assist me ??

Ian Usmar:

I am in Medway and, assuming you mean that Chatham, would be glad to help if I can.

I suggest you PM me with your email or phone and I will contact you to discuss what needs to be done. I am guessing that your barrel will sit comfortably in a collet in the spindle of my Willson.

If you know what taper it is what if you measured back far enough to drill and tap a hole for a small grease nipple so you can use hydraulic force from a grease gun to push the taper out ?

Just a thought .