What type of glue to use...

Hello,

I am very new to the forum and making and I have a questions I am hoping someone can help me with.

I would like to glue a paper pattern that I have printed to copper and brass so that I can use it to cut the correct shape and drill holes in the right place. My question is what glue should I use as obviously after I would need to remove it completely... and also what I use to remove it would be great too

Thank you in advance for any advice.

Sam

At the moment I work mainly in wood and am looking to start in metal work. What i use to stick patterns down is the spray photographic type adhesive.

Second vote for Prittstick, I've used it for holding a guitar pickguard pattern to a sheet of stainless before marking out and it held remarkably well and removed cleanly.

I like spray glue for sticking paper patterns to metal for cutting - 3M's Super 77 is great. Not sure if it's available where you are but artist suppliers in North America usually stock it, and industrial supply firms. Sold in a large can, it lasts ages when doing model work. It is oil resistant, and usually stays stuck over several days if working on a complex part.

It cleans up completely with acetone or laquer thinner. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will remove it usually, if you can get the stuff with 20% alcohol or more (much of the stuff in drug stores here is diluted with lots of water to make it look like a great deal ie big bottle low price). 

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 23/07/2018 18:46:58

+3 for pritt. Put it on the metal not the paper and let it dry a bit, otherwise it can make the paper wrinkle.

N.

Pva wood glue works well and you can just soak it to get the template off without having to scub it to death .

I do a lot of pierce sawing on precious metal and use Pritt Power.

Spray Mount from you local art shop.

Martin

I have printed patterns onto A4 self adhesive label stock. These stick readily to clean metal. They are easily removed by wetting the label with white spirit and then peeling off.

Wow thank you all this is all really helpful .. I have some pritt sticks so going to start there then explore the others so I can find what works best for me. Thank you all again so much!!

+ for Pritt. When the time comes to take the paper patterns off, brush on some clean water and the paper will soak it up readily. It will also start to wrinkle and lift. If you keep going sparingly with the water the paper will more of less fall off taking most of the glue with it. If you try to peel the paper too early you will find more of the glue remaining on the job.
I do this all the time for balsa and plywood ribs and formers on model aircraft.
Just a light wipe with a damp (not wet) sponge or cloth and that removes any residue.
No nasty solvents!

Note that there are two types of spray mount. One is instant sticking, the other allows you to reposition the pattern on the job. Spray mounting can also be a bit nasty if used in an enclosed space.

Personally I would go with Pritt

Roy

I don't know of anything better than Pritt, but two things to check before cutting:

• That the pattern hasn't shrunk as the glue dries, (yes it does happen), or
• Slid out of position due to being handled before the glue has set

The first problem caused serious cussing, the second misplaced hole I pretended was deliberately offset for artistic reasons...

That's what I'd suggest too. can be completely removed.

Self adhesive crack-back sheets work quite well too.

Regards,

Richard.

use double sided carpet tape such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rolson-Heavy-Duty-50mm-x-25M-Double-Sided-Carpet-Adhesive-Floor-Rug-Stick-Tape/262842864715?epid=16011027141&hash=item3d32a7d44b:g:iCMAAOSwJtdaAxDX like this and it works well when I cut out oval shapes in Ali it goes through cutting on a bandsaw, 12 tapped holes, 2 countersunk holes and finishing off on an sander and its still suck, so that works for me and it peels off nice and easy when your done as long as you wait for it to cool down.

Martin

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