Superglue for holding workpieces

Out of interest has anyone tried this - looks like a very useful technique if it works - **LINK**

Not tried it myself but I think “Clickspring” on YouTube has?

Works well just watch out for heat ! If you want to watch some more interesting ways to hold parts in the lathe or mill trythese channels :

Joe piecynski - has quite a few interesting vidoes on holding thin parts etc .

Suburban tool - look how he holds a curved flexible piece of plastic to mill it down .

Hi David,

I use glue to hold pieces together while machining, as long has the work doesn't get hot it works well. I then use a hot air gun to loosen the work.

Thor

Does anyone know what that blue painter's tape is? Is it masking tape? If not is there anything equivalent available over here? I've use the superglue chuck idea for holding clock wheels to machine the bore for example, mounting the part direct to an aluminium "faceplate", not thought of using a tape in between. I found the video very interesting, I hadn't thought of trying it on the mill though have tried shellac with mixed success.

Answered my own question I think.

**LINK**

Question is what is the difference between blue masking tape and the plain old cream coloured one ? I reckon it is the same just dyed blue so it stands out on the shelf at the shop ! And they can charge more for it !

Good carpet tape will take light cuts. I've used it for wood turning as well as metal, no porblems.

Superglue - again for light cuts but melts when hot. Back up with a centre where possible.

Depends which blue tape you refer to. For masking paintwork in the house i use 3M's 3434 which is a blue low tack tape - way better than 'ordinary' masking tape.. easer to reposition/remove and less damage to recently painted surfaces. (cheapest source I;ve found is from an autodetailers bought by the 6-rolls for about 2 squid each). That's a paper-like tape but 3M also do a plastic type masking tape that costs more but stretches better for curves.

pgk

The plastic one sounds better if you were doing cars and also looks more like the one in the video.

Can any of our US based friends cast any light on this please?

I use activated cyanoacrylate to hold Titanium, D2 Tool steel, Gauge Plate and other sheet materials down to Aluminium tooling plates for profile cutting, it's a very useful technique. I use carpet tape for acrylic and Carbon Fibre sheets.

MrsG. expressed an interest in these blue masking tapes, for needlework projects.

Our investigations led us to believe that the 'Kip' range is considered pretty much definitive.

Available here: **LINK**

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/shop/product/search?searchword=kip&page=1

... Various advertisers may disagree, of course.

MichaelG.

I don't know, but it is different - it works as an adhesion promoter for 3D printing but ordinary masking tape doesn't.

Neil

As I understand it, there is more than one type of masking tape that is coloured blue, so describing something as 'blue masking tape' is not helping. Granted there are not many blue masking tapes compared with a multitude of 'black insulation tape' types but two is enough to lead to confusion.

Low tack masking tape can be any colour although I used to think that was what the blue signified.

How does the adhesion promoter work? is it applied and then removed to clean the substrates?

Ian P

Any old super glue works direct to part and backing. Can only take light cuts like the video in steels, aluminiums far easier.
Used to take 3/8" thick steels down to a profiled 120 thou holes and lugs etc, rarely came loose with depth of cuts greater than video.

3M #2060 masking tape recommended on NYC CNC member forum. This is 'builder standard' tape and resists coolant much better. Available on Amazon in 'Green' version (20601). Loctite 4851 glue.

Neil, please could you specify what sort of tape you use, and if possible a source?

I went straight to a buildtak surface and never looked back ! Just about finished heat enclosure for the bed so i can print abs better , uses oven bags to shroud the bed and you can find it on youtube under heat enclosre for 3d printer .back to the op ,

I had a look at my local hardware store and there seems to be thre distinct types of masking tape , the old cream coulured stuff and two types of low tac tape one blue and one green , i think the green stuff has a thinner edge to give a crisper edge on the pint but as i detest painting i never really noticed this ! The old cream stuff may have a coating on it to stop paint or solvent soaking into it and affecting the glue so maybe with the newer types of adhesives the blue and green tapes may not have this coating and therefore have a more porus surface ? One thing i do know is the new stuff doesn't lift at the edges when using enamel paints which was a real hassle with the old stuff .

clogsif it's not to late to answer the masking tape question.........

the original plastic type masking tape was originally called "FINE LINE"......what ever the colour.....like it says, u get a clean fine line when over painting another colour.....pretty sure it was 3M that started it many many years ago... normal masking tape gives a rough edge......

u should also know that masking tape has a time limit....not to the shelf where it's stored but how long u can leave it on.......most of the rubbish no name tape u buy at B+Q is just 24hrs.....most decent tape are usually 36, 48hrs then depend's if it's been subject to paint.......and just to mess with it again there are tapes that are designed for use in heated situations......

the normal cheapo tape I use is removed the same day it goes on......like around door handles......and if it ever gets wet and stay's on for day's........!!!!!!!!!!! oh crap..........

.........