Machining a crown
bullgoose | 01/01/2018 21:34:38 |
3 forum posts | Hi Folks. A friend of mine has several vintage motorcycles and has a need to machine a large crown or radius into replacement bolts he is attempting to make . His ball turning attachment cannot reproduce the large curves he needs and he wonders if anyone can describe a possible solution for him. Many thanks |
Jon | 01/01/2018 21:46:21 |
1001 forum posts 49 photos | Can just plunge straight in with a form tool. Thought all ball turners you could pull the cutting edge out to give a much larger rad? |
Paul Lousick | 01/01/2018 21:49:15 |
2276 forum posts 801 photos | Turn the curve on the head as a series of flat (tangent) faces and then smooth with a file. Paul.
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David George 1 | 01/01/2018 21:52:04 |
![]() 2110 forum posts 565 photos | If it is a very large radius try and find someone with a CNC lathe or a copy lathe and make a template to correct radius. David |
Nick Hulme | 01/01/2018 22:18:03 |
750 forum posts 37 photos | What's the radius? I've been turning some 4.25" radii this last couple of weeks with my ball turning attachment. |
Hopper | 02/01/2018 07:28:24 |
![]() 7881 forum posts 397 photos | Grind up a curved form tool. That's how the originals were most likely made. |
jimmy b | 02/01/2018 07:43:35 |
![]() 857 forum posts 45 photos | I'd go for a form tool and a "sprung holder".
I've done some big rads on a few stainless jobs that way. The head is about 1 1/2"
Jim |
Chris Evans 6 | 02/01/2018 07:49:35 |
![]() 2156 forum posts | Calculate the simple maths and smooth with a file as suggested by Paul. Once you have calculated this you then have all the info needed to work out an angle between points to get closer before blending. I have done petrol and oil filler caps this way. |
JohnF | 02/01/2018 09:50:19 |
![]() 1243 forum posts 202 photos | Definitely a form tool, easy to make and efficient in use, but is it just one radius he needs for all his bolts, what’s the radius, what machine does he have ? (Lathe) |
Mick B1 | 02/01/2018 10:07:39 |
2444 forum posts 139 photos | Make up a rod of 1/4 - 3/8" diameter and the length of the required radius, with 30 degree included points both ends. Centredot the chuck-facing side of the crosslide and the carriage-facing end of the headstock at the same level. You may have to interpose a a fixed distance piece. Generate the radius by holding the carriage manually against the radius rod and operating the crosslide, so that it moves out in a curve as it approaches centre. I've seen the steam-tight ballnoses of locomotive superheater tubes machined in this way. |
ega | 02/01/2018 11:35:16 |
2805 forum posts 219 photos | Mick B1: I, too, can vouch for your suggested method. It is perhaps worth mentioning that concave surfaces can be generated by putting the rod between carriage and tailstock base. If accuracy is necessary in either case attention must be paid to the position of the tooltip in relation to the rod. jimmy b: Beautiful work which I would hesitate to touch with a screwdriver! |
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