Surface grinding without coolant?

Hey all

I'm about to grind the table of my Archdale milling machine as I've been restoring the full machine.

I'm just looking to tidy it up and have the patience to take small grinds.

The thing is...I don't have the flood coolant set up and was thinking of just going dry. Now, this shouldn't be a problem but my last wheel has got me worried as it exploded on a small job! I'd completed a big grind and was doing a small part when it failed. BUT I think this was more to do with the wheel being left unused for over a year (before I acquired the machine) rather than no coolant as my parts never got hot.

Wheels are pricey so I don't want to wreck the new one...and have it go in the middle of the job!

Thanks for your time

Can't comment on the grinding wheel part as I'd need to see your setup. As for dry grinding your milling table - I'll assume its cast iron, you should be OK . Use the face mask unless you want to be spitting soot! Keep the wheel grit well open by dressing the wheel often using fast passes from the diamond each time

If you were grinding the steel mag chuck on a surface grinder you would need flood coolant for a "proper" job.

Rik

Edited By Rik Shaw on 12/09/2017 07:48:47

Just saw this post. I have been grinding for many years and it is very rare for a wheel to explode but grinding without coolant was non of the ones. The job can expand under the wheel so you get a bigger cut and uneven finnish and if you can get the coolant fixed. The wheel can explode if fitted wrong ie, no paper washers on flanges, uneven tightening, over tightening, or banged or dropped wheel not tested (RING TEST) befor mounting.

David

If a wheel is not cracked when purchased & checked before fitting correctly & the outside is dressed there is no way it will just fail.

Tony

Great replies, guys :D

I got to thinking while doing some research last night. I think, well, it's likely, that the last wheel went because of human err,errr, error Ha!

Like I said, I'd done a big grind beforehand. This was the saddle of a mill and the front side at that. Heavy, unmoving lump. The break happened on a very small part that I had in a very small mag chuck. I think the part (which was tall at the time) has moved and jammed the wheel. POP!

I saw a video during my research that was totally what happened with me.

As for the table I have to clean up...I'll crack on and let yous know. It might not be possible but we'll see. It's all about having fun :D

When I worked for ICI I used to watch the chaps surface grinding and the grinder definately wasnt fitted with coolant

When I spent 6 months of my apprenticeship at Timsons on a Jones and Shipman 540, the coolant was used 100% of the time, to avoid burning and extend wheel life as well as keeping the dust down. The same applied to all the grinders in the place, surface and cylindrical.

Chris Gunn

My surface grinder doesn't have a coolant catching tray, but this may work for you ?

A spray bottle from Wilkie's or the pound shop and a piece of fish tank hose could be a simple solution to your issue, which costs almost nothing. Affix it to a convenient location, and add a small clamp to the trigger mechanism and you're in business.

Here are photos to give you a rough idea.

Edited By Mike E. on 12/09/2017 15:14:14

Edited By Mike E. on 12/09/2017 15:14:44

That's not a bad idea at all Thanks.

I have not done any surface grinding at all.

But I do know from using angle grinders and belt sanders that the parts get hot very quickly.

I would have thought that the flood cooling was to keep the parts being ground from getting warm/hot and expanding and then you would lose your tolerance on the part being ground

I would have thought that apart from cooling the removal of debris was an important function of the coolant.

Mike

You use a different wheel for dry grinding, usually a "White" Aluminium Oxide, with a softer bond compared to those used with coolant.

After all most manual cutter re-sharpening is done dry.

Check out the Norton Abrasives website for details **LINK**

Nick.

After all most manual cutter re-sharpening is done dry.

But usually with a bucket of water to keep the tool cool and not likely to the accuracy expected of a surface grinder.

We may cut dry on our lathes but with bigger jobs needing to be accurately turned, we may still need to allow the workpiece to cool before obtaining a good measurement. Horses for course, I say.

Hmmm, I didn't realize that discarding photos made just to reply to a thread would result in them disappearing in posts when deleted from an album.

Turning, milling & grinding can be performed both wet & dry. How to proceed depends on you, obviously at its simplest coolant cools the machining process & removes debris [dust/swarf].

Neither method is wrong in my opinion.

Tony

Update: It's going well. The major over-capacity is my biggest issue as deflection is mad. Obviously.

But, I'm winning by taking it slowly and counter-balancing the machine etc. Looking like 0.001" over 40" (could be 0.002". I'll take that.

But it's a very slow process. We're talking 4-5 hour sittings

Because of the large size I'm also getting unavoidable finish differences, but the joins are seamless.