Member postings for Piero Franchi

snagging is an easy one to fix

clean/blow out the liner

its simply bungged up

I use 0.6 all the time as well

I do help the mig and use a 3 M torch, 4 m its pushing it. but not impossible

simply blow out the linner with air

Its turned out to be a Linley jig borer

Not sure if it would usful as a mill ???

for some unknown reason, I cant add the photos.

its not saying why ???

The mill looks like a vertical floor drill press but with a X and Y table

it has bridgeport cast into the coloum

Hi Guys

I am struggling to find some D1-3 back plates believe it or not

Ok so that's not entirely true, but at a reasonable price and quality I am

I've had to send two back to warco as the circumference of the studs was wrong and the back plates would not fit my Colchester Bantam..

RGT who used to sell them are not advertising them !!!

Fleabay only have the more expensive ones

I need about four, I was wondering/hoping I could buy just the cast iron rough back plates and machine my own inc tapping the threads for the cam studs (you can buy)

Any ideas on what to do or were to look plz

many thanks

Hi Guys

I cant seem to find an email address for Arceurotrade

Only seem to be able to email them Via there own web site.

I had placed an order for a few bits and One item arrived damaged, (it had had water in the part at some time and arrived rusted)

I was hoping to send them a few photos of said item and to discuss the return and refund, only I cant find there email address,

I cant send photos via there website other wise I would have simply used that

I have a clamp system using the the drill chuck wedges that I place between the bottom of the spindle and the milling chuck.

done this way there is NO force being aplided to the spindle bearings.

its a little like a ball joint splitter as used on cars

Edited By Piero Franchi on 10/01/2018 11:20:25

Hi Guys

I am asking the question of "how well does a Morse taper 2 collet release in the spindle of a mill"

I usually use a Clarkson type chuck with collets in the Tom Senior mill.

as some of you might know, that can limit the hight of the work.

so I was thinking, as and when I had to, I could use a Morse tapper collet instead and do away with the Clarkson chuck.

my only concern is how easily it will release if tightened up properly for milling

I DON'T WISH TO, nor do I EVER smack the draw bar with a hammer to release the Clarkson chuck!!!!!

I have made a release type clamp, based on a ball joint splitter (not the hammer type) that I use when removing stuff from the spindle,

with the Morse taper collet fitting directly in the spindle, Ill have nothing to help with removal of said collet

From what others have said, I am inclined to agree about the environment of this feed nut and aluminum being more prone to ingress in-bedding into it and causing extra wear on the feed screw

ill be looking on flee bay for a bit of aluminum bronze

Had a start at making the test sample out of aluminum today,

good job to as it taught me the best sequence of doing it.

the original was a bronze type nut, of about 1 & 3/4 inches by 1 & 1/2 by 1 & 1/2

if any one can spare a off cut please pm me

Edited By Piero Franchi on 31/12/2017 15:07:22

Edited By Piero Franchi on 31/12/2017 15:07:42

I have much thanks to give some one from this forum (cant find/remember his details) for all my metal. much of which is aluminum.

there was this guy from Southampton giving away what he considered scrap

to me it was gold!!!!

so I have some to play with (aluminum) thanks to this kind gentleman

Edited By Piero Franchi on 30/12/2017 19:14:28

As I only have aluminium, I think ill try it if only as a test to Polish up on the skills needed to do the job latter on in brass/bronze

which of the two would be better. brass or bronze ???

My lead screw nut was very very worn and the work would some times be pulled into the grinding wheel.

I have now retro fitted a gib locking bolt that will lock the inward moment on the grinder

as the table is apart, i quite fancied trying my hand at a new leadscrew nut

I dont have any bronze

Just wondering why not use aluminum as a feed nut??

Was going to try and make my first ever feed nut, its for my Clarkson tool and cutter grinder.

I will probably mess it up anyway and will take a few attempts at it to get it right.

but I do know with a lot of cylinder heads (on cars) the cams run straight through the aluminum cast head, no bearing shells,

thats steel (cast normally) to aluminium so why not my feed nut ????

just about to add some photos to my album off my currant (large) tool post

Hi there

Is there any one of you lot out there using one of these??? (RGT tools HBM tool post)

having just sold a Dickinson type (on behalf of a friend) its caused me to look closer at my own tool post holder I have fitted to my Super 7

mine is a rather large piston type holder (not hardened) of similar size to that of a Colchester bantam (three inch square)

I quite like the look of this HBM tool post as it has the cam behind the center point thus moving the tool holder closer to the center of the hold down main bolt

any opinions on the make plz

Edited By Piero Franchi on 09/12/2017 10:37:57

My Metric set has four layers (as stated by DMR)

they all fit into its original box, so I would guess it was a four layer box set.

The gears I have mentioned are correct as to what I have in the box set.

Yes there is always a chance some of the gears have been lost and others added.

I am defiantly going to be looking into purchasing the Brian Wood book on gearing.

I am relying here on the forum rather than by personal email ONLY incase there is important information shared here that could help others.

If you (DMR, or any other) wish to send anything outside of this topic, plz feel free

Hi Dennis

For some reason the photos would not show in the album, when I went to edit it, they were there,

went back out of the album and they were gone again, uploaded two more photos to this album and they dissapired again,

so I deleted the album and done a new one, this times it all seems ok

I had taken a photo of the part number (but obviously that didnt show either) but its there now

rebuilt the gearbox (you can see this on one of my albums) and its all working as it should.

To be honest, I have never had a problem taking stuff apart and putting it all back togeather again, it comes quite natural to me, 

Its the stuff I have never set my hands on that I could do with the help on 

Piero

Edited By Piero Franchi on 03/12/2017 17:30:35