Preventing Rust

A friend has asked me about the best way to prevent rust on tools. He collects and restores old woodwork tools, chisels, hand planes, etc. It has been suggested to use WD40 but I believe that this is not the best solution. My thoughts were to use a light oil.

What is reccommended ?

Paul.

Camellia Oil

Camelia oil is the trendy choice. ARC do this stuff **LINK** Which seems like a good idea. I have got some but haven't actually used it yet - fortunately rust isn't a big issue for me these days.

HTH,

Rod

Thanks for the feedback.

What is Camelia oil made from ? I live in Australia and shipment from ARC would be too expensivs. Would like to fine a similar product from a local supplier.

Paul.

Camelia oil is the traditional Japanese treatment against rust for woodworkers.

So the origin is much closer to your neck of the woods than here

Jon

Liberon Machine Wax for larger items, BRIWAX clear wax for most tools, left on not buffed if for storage or lightly buffed for soft sheen. For more agricultural stuff, (hammers, axes, drawknives etc) we phosphate with KURUST after degreasing, wipe off quickly then wax when dry. Gives a nice satin blue black finish which is very durable.

Camellia oil for planes and tools in constant use particularly soles of planes.

We constantly get nice remarks from our customers on how nice the tools look when they get them.

Do NOT store in leather rolls, worst possible stuff for rust.

Inside storage cabinets, drawers etc the best stuff is the small stick on Vapour Phase inhibitor packs from Shield Technology but VERY expensive ( I think it is dearer than plutonium by the kilo!). Our way round this which works very well is to use sardine paste bottles with holes in the lids and fill with old fashioned moth balls.

Our garage workshop is very prone to rust having an open up and over door and we take a lot of care with rust proofing when our stuff is cleaned as nothing is more demoralisingthan having to do it agaain!

Cheers, Martin

If you leave WD40 long enough, it stains the metal it is supposed to protect. I've got some of this ACF-50 stuff which seems to work well....(so far)

**LINK**

Pete

Hi Paul. This stuff is pretty good **LINK** , it's made in Oz and inexpensive/readily available. Ever seen a rusty sheep?

Worth a try.

* Danny M *

Thanks to everyone.

No, Danny have not seen a rusty sheep but have seen a few rusty hydraulic rams.

Paul.

Another upvote for ACF-50

It is not clear if the tools are displayed or stored and used, but I have found the Teflon based Dry Lube spray on all bright ferrous finishes to be extremely resilient (plenty of brands worldwide).

Some of my Chisels are getting on for 70 years old and I can still see my reflection (not a pretty sight) in them when cleaned for use.

The stuff is usually marketed to be applied to bicycle chains which repels dirt and water. It leaves a thin waxy coating which can be easily wiped off of tooling etc.

Martin, what is the thinking behind mothballs and rust prevention?

Roger

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camphor

Geoff

Richard,

The tools belong to a friend of a friend of mine who has a collection of old wood planes (have been told more than 100, so a big collection) they are stored only and not used. Will try and see his collection and take a few photos.

Paul.

There is a TV program called 'American Restoration' recommended cooking oil thinly applied. Still not sure about that and it's difficult to test as I don't have a rust problem.

Camellia oils tea tree oil with the tree taken out

Apparently it's from Camellia japonica, not Camellia sinensis (tea plant)

 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tea_seed_oil

The problem with any vegetable-based oil is that it will thicken and go sticky over time.

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 15/02/2017 09:10:36

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 15/02/2017 09:11:51

Yes, 'drying oils'.

Geoff