Member postings for Richard S2

Acquired a box of age encrusted Lathe parts yesterday, sadly no Bed/headstock.

Spent some time online last night and narrowed this search down to a possible B.S.W. RandA 'A' brand.

I believe a few Members on here are owners of a few examples who could possibly offer some verification. If so, I would be most grateful.

Rather than clog this Topic up with images of rusty parts, I placed 3 images in the 'Workshop' section of my Album of some of the parts.

My primary questions are-

Can it be confirmed that this brand/model of Lathe carries the casting marks of 3 numerals prefixed by the letter 'L'.

The original colours appear to be a very dark greenish black with red 'T' slots and feedscrew channels. This is similar to the pristine original condition example on lathes.co.uk.

The apron on mine carries a plate listing Change Wheel/Thread permutations and no examples in my searches appear to have this.

I'll then set to and carefully clean these up and check their condition. I'm in no doubt the expection of locating missing parts to make a complete Lathe is a 'No Hoper', so they maybe of benefit later to someone else.

Thanks in anticipation.

The original colour of my 1949 ML7 was blue !. Some of it still is, it being a mish mash of blue, grey and light hammerite blue. Suppose I should comply, strip it down and paint it grey when it next gets some downtme?.

I have original imperial unused blackened Thackerys of 3/16" bore in my stock if they would help?.

Can't assist with your version of this lathe, but to clarify, my 1985 Peatol/Taig (made in U.S) has a different design of Gib.

Hope you get the issue sorted.

Regards

I only have an image of the old version, as I replaced mine back in '86'. I now have the same type fitted as the OP's unit. The original unit breaks down to this-

Note this type did not have an oil nipple, just a countersunk hole for oiling. Hopefully you can see and relate to all the relevent holes in the one image.

Another reason not to drill a hole through the backgear spindle is that it is likely to be hardened and tempered for the backgear to run on.

Regards

It may be that your unit is a later design change. I say later, as the one I have is from my 1949 ML7 and the protruding backgear spindle (1/2" dia) passes all the way through the body and locked with a grub screw underneath at the lever end.

If your spindle is set into a blind hole of the unit?, then the small hole may be there for relieving the pressure when it was pressed in.

I would not drill any holes for lubrication, as it is possible it is supplied from the front main spindle bearing above it?.

You can also just add a few drops to the joint/mating face on the inside of the headstock next to the oil nipple and that will be drawn in by capillery action as mentioned previously.

Never heard of a seized up eccentric back gear unit, so it must be ok for a light oil when fitting it.

Regards

They are all over the place on ebay. Search for seller Fixaball 1/4" Whitworth socket cap screws. It is where I obtained some and quality is/was good. 3/16" allen key required. Other outlets will also have them

Acquired an old oil gun last week. Bit of a state both iside and out-

Required desoldering to reduce it to constituent parts to clean and repair. Found it to be another Lucas Oiler like the other one I have, but this is a Nbr 36 syringe type-

Had to replace the pitted/worn steel ball for a new bronze one. Also needed to hard solder some internal joints to ensure all remained joined and sealed when 'closing up' the last 5 joints. Cut new leather seals/washers.

Finished it this am with making new nozzle and cap. The nozzle fits into the grease type nipple holes on my machines. All now functoning perfectly without leaking at any angle. Not bad for a nearly 98 year old oil can-

It's been a while since my last effort with the race to finish this. Thanks to Joseph, Jeff and Jon for their compliments.

Thanks to medication, I can manage short periods working on smaller detail again, so pressed on with finshing the pins and clips. Had to come up with a method to cross drill 3/64th (1.2mm) pins (rivets) with a nbr 78 (0.4mm) hole for the 14 thou stainless wire clips (0.35mm). Worked fine using WM16 Mill and Peatol/Taig and a jig.

3 different widths for the cross hole point, one for the damper flap/rod and one each end of the regulator reach rod.

Reg rod ends-

Also finished the drive pin retainers and clips giving a more detailed finish to the rear hub layout-

Regards

I have found K&S range to be of good quality tubing for many years. Thin wall of 0.014". Sizing enables slide fit in next size up.

A link for you to peruse- TUBING. Presume you are in UK?.

Socket size of that screw is 1/8" Allen Key on my 1949 ML7. Regards

There is another reason why so many drivers are noted as riding the foot brake at T/lights etc.

The facility of 'Hill Start Assist' will apply the handbrake when the pedal is depressed harder when stationary. It is released automatically when the driver selects a gear, declutches and throttles to pull away. I have this on my Focus and it does leave the brake lights on for the stationary period. but I agree with you also that there are many who just sit with the foot on the brake nowadays. I am also aversed to the bright headlights and have always adopted the the advice from long ago to divert my line of sight to the kerb side ahead temporarily to avoid dazzle.

Also will have to jump through the hoops to replace my paper license which expires in 2022. Assuming my current painful wrist condition fades and I can get back to driving and the workshop?.

Regards

Edited By Richard S2 on 04/12/2021 14:31:17

Thank you. I did use images of full sized examples for research initially and my available stock of lettering was close enough for me.

I had no intention of making more lettering to a presupposed idea of what it may have looked like around 1900.

So for anyone who is bothered by it, can peruse the images of a full size Cart example on this - LINK - for another comparison. I can't post them (or others) into this Topic, as they are copyrighted.

Now the Minnie T/Engine is back in one piece on 'all fours', I've finished fabricating the alternative drawbar for this cart. Trial fit -

Just the painting of the drawbar and some plumbing/hose parts to do and it will be finished.

Thanks Jon & Phil. Rather a long pause with progress report, had 86 days of hell with replacement windows and scaffolding.

Spent 2 days last week masking and painting the rim sides and strakes to finish the rim faces-

Didn't want to paint the strakes, looks a bit tidier.

I managed to make the Regulator Reach Rod dead straight and able to make/fit a crutch fork on the spectacle plate to support it.

Still doing odd parts, but nearly there with main assembly after painting. Oil blackened the steering worm gear to blend in. No fancy lining etc, I want it basic and plain like a general purpose should be-

Not fussed with trying to equalise the band spacing on the barrel. Minor failure with the cladding, have a short gap of 0.4mm at the front of the cylinder pad and the L/h cladding sheet somehow?-

Need to dull the front wheel faces off and various retaining clips & pins to make next.

Regards

Hi Brian, Sorry for the delay. 7/64" bore for the valve seatings for 5/32" valve balls. Are you changing the pump layout/location ?.

I also find background, or incidental music (if you can call it that) very annoying. to the extent that I don't bother watching the programmes. To me, it is the production sound set up they use that produces inferior audio quality. A modern trend it seems, UKTV, Channels 4 & 5 documentary commissions are a classic example of inferior production.

I resort to using quality headphones, rather than built in TV speakers, but that is due to my problem with accute Tinnitus .

I have no problem at all watching//listening to older films and programmes on channels like Talking Pictures, even with old technology sound tracks.

Another advocate of SBK. Killed off many 'a large Ivy root and tree stump. It will take a while.

Best time to treat ivy is in the dormant period over winter. I have drilled deep holes diagonally downwards near the base and filled them with 50/50 dilute SBK. plugged the holes after.

Additionally, a mixture of correct dilute strength SBK and kerosene to spray over the foliage during a dry spell.

Repeat treatment will accelerate it's demise.

From the leaf form, it could be Hedera Hibernica?. And to alleviate your guilt complex of neglect, it is considerably fast growing.

ML7 tool post base measurements of mine are 0.8735" x 0.192" thickness. The dowel pin is 0.081" diameter.

It is on a PCD of 0.3135" on mine, so nominally 5/16" (0.3125). The pin height is 0.2187" or about 5.5mm-

This is a 1949 model, the dowel pin size is wire/number size 46. Later Myfords may have different size pin.

And I've gone to the effort of providing an image-