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Circlip removal

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Steve Pavey14/10/2015 21:10:45
369 forum posts
41 photos

I want to dismantle the clutch on my Harrison lathe - It has suffered after a few years of storage and needs a clean-up. There is a 60mm dia circlip on the end of the shaft which needs to be removed, and I don't have anything other than a fairly feeble small pair of pliers that are much too small. Apart from buying a larger pair of pliers, are there any tricks to circlip removal that don't involve removing chunks of flesh?

Neil Wyatt14/10/2015 21:46:26
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

Machine Mart do surprisingly cheap sets of circlip pliers that are fine for occasional jobs.

Neil

Hopper15/10/2015 06:28:18
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7881 forum posts
397 photos

A good way to wreck a good scriber is to use it to remove a large circlip.

You can also wreck a pair of long nose pliers by grinding the ends of the jaws down to fit, then fiddle about trying to use them "back to front" to open up the external circlip.

But sometimes a suitable old screw driver can be ground down to a point and used to lift one end of the circlip out of its groove and then run another thin screwdriver or piece of shim around the groove to ease the circlip out.

Nicholas Farr15/10/2015 08:41:14
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos

Hi Steve, although screwdrivers ect. can be used to remove smallish circlips, (and I've done myself) proper circlip pliers should be used. One reason for not using a screwdriver for lifting one end out and subsequently easing it out of the groove is that you are introducing a twist in the clip, which you should not do. A more important thing is safety, as even some of the larger small clips can fly at an astonishing speed if they are suddenly released.

A 60mm circlip will have quite a high resistance to opening wide enough to remove from it's groove and the danger on it flying into any part of your body and causing serious injury is much greater. Using screwdrivers on this size will be much more difficult and will probably result in the ends near the gap, scoring the shaft if and when you get it out of the groove. There is only one and safe way to remove a circlip and that is to use a proper pair of circlip pliers rated for the size circlip you wish to remove.

Regards Nick.

Steve Pavey15/10/2015 08:58:29
369 forum posts
41 photos

That's more or less confirmed what I thought! It is definitely a big meaty circlip - just a trial with a pair of long nose pliers and I couldn't spring it open more than half a mm without getting into flesh tearing territory. Looks like it will have to wait until I can borrow or buy a pair of proper circlip pliers.

It's not the most important job on the list, but I'd like to make sure there is no surface rust on the clutch and brake components or in the grooves of the pulley.

Ajohnw15/10/2015 09:40:14
3631 forum posts
160 photos

I had a problem like that. Screwfix fixed it. They aren't restocked any more but many branches have them. I was rather surprised by the quality and price. They should be big enough and they come as a complete set.

John

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Stuart Bridger15/10/2015 10:03:09
566 forum posts
31 photos

Simply Bearings have a good range of quality Circlip pliers at a sensible price. No assocation with the company other than as a happy customer.

Harry Wilkes15/10/2015 10:05:36
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1613 forum posts
72 photos

Good choice on ebay.

Ady115/10/2015 10:49:16
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6137 forum posts
893 photos

Circlip pliers are one of those tools you really can't do without... but you only need them once in a blue moon

They turn a 30 minute flesh smearing job into a 60 second fiddle, especially with those bigger clips

Circlip15/10/2015 11:16:47
1723 forum posts

Beer tokens are an inducement to getting me out.laugh

But seriarsely, get some proper pliers and only open the clip just enough to clear the shaft, same for internals. Overstressing wrecks em.

Regards Ian.

Gordon W15/10/2015 11:48:00
2011 forum posts

Make sure the clip is free in the groove before using your new pliers. tap it round with an old screwdriver or similar.

Steven Vine16/10/2015 09:30:18
340 forum posts
30 photos

I had to remove a 70mm internal circlip a while back. As I would only encounter this size once in a blue moon I made this dirt cheap tool. The all thread is 4mm. The nipples that fit the circlip are very short, and hardened. The top and bottom nuts are moved in sequence to tighten the tool and grip the clip. It worked well and the circlip did not fly off. Don't know if something like this will work on an external clip.

circlip7.jpg

Mike16/10/2015 09:59:31
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713 forum posts
6 photos

One thing that nobody has mentioned is that, when using anything but proper circlip pliers, there's always a tendency for the clip to ping off and land in some far corner of the workshop among dust, dead spiders and unidentifiable bits of heaven-knows-what. I don't know about other folks, but I've spent hours on my knees with a magnet.......

Circlip16/10/2015 10:31:51
1723 forum posts

That's the point (bad pun). "Correct" tools have the lug pins angled inwards for internal clips and outwards for external clips. Circlips are often known as "Jesus" clips in TLOTF as in "Jesus, where did that go?"

Regards Ian.

KWIL16/10/2015 10:53:01
3681 forum posts
70 photos

Blessed are those who use the correct pliersdevil

Ian P16/10/2015 11:10:00
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2747 forum posts
123 photos

The following is good tip to bear in mind when removing circlips. It applies inner and outer types of all sizes although especially important with larger sizes on corroded. dirty or rusty ones on cars or old machinery.

Before breaking the tips off the tool or damaging the lug or holes in the clip, make sure the clip is free in the groove. If its say a large internal circlip holding a bearing race in a casting recess, before touching the circlip use a flat punch to ensure the bearing is fully inserted into its recess, even if it is the shock of applying pressure at several points around the diameter might break the grip of any surface corrosion. The next thing is to use a small punch or screwdriver to try and rotate the circlip in its groove by tapping the 'trailing' end of the clip in the forward direction (hitting in the wrong direction would tend to enlarge the circlip diameter and totally prevent rotation).

Only when you know the circlip is moving is it wise to use circlip pliers. I have seen several aluminium differential and hub carrier castings reduced to scrap by so called car mechanics trying to replace wheel bearings without even cleaning off road salt corrosion,

Ian P

Ajohnw16/10/2015 11:31:21
3631 forum posts
160 photos

It looks like the screwfix one's have all gone. Odd them not restocking them as lots of rave reviews.

These look to be the same ones

**LINK**

John

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Robbo16/10/2015 13:52:25
1504 forum posts
142 photos

But those from Screwfix and in the Link from John only go up to 25mm circlips. The OP has to remove a 60mm circlip

Ajohnw16/10/2015 14:42:44
3631 forum posts
160 photos

I've used the cheap pressed steel interchangeable end ones for circlips bigger than that. These are a lot stronger.

I'm worried, I can't remember what I used these on but I do remember that it took a fair amount of force on the handles. This slow going sort out and tidy up must be doing my head in.

The other thing I have done in the past is modify the ends of a pair of long nosed pliers. Ok for internal ones but a pain for external. Can't say as I would recommend it.

Another source but I doubt if there is much difference really. Be interesting to know if the od of the ends is any different.

**LINK**

Even late in the day orders arrive next morning.

John

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Steven Vine16/10/2015 14:46:18
340 forum posts
30 photos

As Ian said, free up the clip before squeezing/expanding it, particularly on the bigguns. Don't you guys get bogged down and worry too much about the clip pinging off. Wear a face shield. When all is lined up and good to go, put a cloth over it before applying pressure to the removal tool. The correct tool certainly makes things easier, but there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Steve

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