Tool for turning 2.2 mm rod for making 8BA studs
David Haythornthwaite | 17/12/2014 19:22:30 |
![]() 45 forum posts 7 photos | I have to make some 8BA studs for a steam engine that I am making. I see there has been discussion about 8BA studs on this forum back in October 2012 and a regular contributor called NJH showed a picture of a thin piece turning tool which carried a bush to support the turned rod next to the actual cutting tool. I would like to know where to obtain such a tool - or even know the correct name for it. I seem to remember one being detailed in MEW many years ago, but cannot find it in the index. Can anyone help? If NJH reads this I would be interested where he bought it from. David H
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Neil Wyatt | 17/12/2014 19:56:42 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Hello David, Its a steady rest, but I think you will search along while if you seek one that works like that. Alternatives include a box tool and making one yourself - which shouldn't be too difficult. It can be as simple as a bar clamped to the toolpost with a hole drilled in it. The difficult bit is setting the point of the tool to get the right cut. This is my box tool: Neil |
David Haythornthwaite | 17/12/2014 20:48:12 |
![]() 45 forum posts 7 photos | Thanks Neil, It was most interesting to see that, I particularly liked the way it uses a V steady to stop the piece from both lifting and from pushing away whilst being adjustable for many diameters without having to make bushes. I was thinking of making something to go in the toolpost, so you could use it for long lengths and I am now wondering about a tool in the top (compound) slide, therefore finely adjustable for diameter, and providing the support from the back toolpost. I like making tools equally to making models, and despite my current resolution to "get on with the steam engine", it looks like a tool project may be on the way. Thanks for your help. Have a great Christmas and a Happy New Year. MEW is coming along just a treat. - well done. Thanks again. Kind Regards David |
JasonB | 17/12/2014 20:51:57 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Chronos used to sell one but not seen it listed for a while, have a search on some of the other forums like MHEM, MEM and MECH the subject has been covered on them all. Not too hard to make one either. Edited By JasonB on 17/12/2014 20:55:00 |
NJH | 17/12/2014 21:07:32 |
![]() 2314 forum posts 139 photos | David I have sent you a pm - however I see that Jason as supplied a picture of the beast! By all meant though contact me if you think that I can help. Regards Norman
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Maurice | 17/12/2014 21:43:40 |
469 forum posts 50 photos | I needed to turn down a long slender rod some time ago. I made a similar device to that shown, by making a replacement jaw for my travelling steady, Bored a 1/4" hole in it when fitted to the lathe, and reduced this with a bronze bush, drilled to the size of the rod. After the right amount of cut was determined by trial and error, the rod was turned down at one pass. Regards Maurice |
David Haythornthwaite | 17/12/2014 23:07:33 |
![]() 45 forum posts 7 photos | Thanks Jason, Norman and Maurice. I think I shall make something along the lines of the photo Jason posted. I have also wondered whether to have the rear toolpost (QC) carry the supporting bush, swivelling my topslide round 90 deg. so that it carries my tangential tool right up to the back of the bush. The bush would then be centralised to the lathe centre by the cross slide feed and the diameter i.e. the cut would be controlled by the top slide feed. We shall see - but thanks everyone. David |
Nobby | 17/12/2014 23:26:33 |
![]() 587 forum posts 113 photos | Hi David |
David Haythornthwaite | 18/12/2014 09:03:31 |
![]() 45 forum posts 7 photos | Hi Nobby "I suppose the next problem will be threading the 8ba ?" No problem with that. The ends of the studs will be threaded by holding the stud in an ER25 collet and using a die in a tailstock die holder. (yes they are long enough, - I think). If not, for the short ones, I shall thread them, one end, whilst they are on the parent material, cut off and screw them into a threaded mandrell in the chuck (or collet). For the tapping I have a home made pillar tool. David |
Nobby | 18/12/2014 11:05:43 |
![]() 587 forum posts 113 photos | Hi David |
Gray62 | 18/12/2014 11:33:28 |
1058 forum posts 16 photos | There was a small roller box described in MEW October 2002 (Issue 85) Neat little device but a little OTT if you are not going to use it much (mine hasn't seen light of day for a few years now. |
Bob Unitt 1 | 18/12/2014 12:33:48 |
![]() 323 forum posts 35 photos | You could try a 'rose bit' - a hollow end-mill held in the tailstock through which you pass the workpiece to reduce it to the diameter of the hole. Advantages are that it always cuts to the required dimension, and applies no lateral pressure to the workpiece as it cuts. I don't know if they're commercially available, I made my own years ago to produce some 8ba bolts in stainless. |
john jennings 1 | 18/12/2014 12:54:46 |
69 forum posts | Interested to know that a rose tool works on (free cutting ?) stainless. They are (were?) a traditonal clockmakers tool so apart from brass (running down small screw blanks) would also cope with pivot steel a part hardened carbon steel. Worth a try as easy to make and set up
John |
Bob Unitt 1 | 18/12/2014 14:16:11 |
![]() 323 forum posts 35 photos | Posted by john jennings 1 on 18/12/2014 12:54:46: Interested to know that a rose tool works on (free cutting ?) stainless. They are (were?) a traditonal clockmakers tool so apart from brass (running down small screw blanks) would also cope with pivot steel a part hardened carbon steel. Worth a try as easy to make and set up John I can't remember the stainless steel I used, probably something I scrounged from a friend who was company secretary of a steel distributor (a really useful guy to know
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David Haythornthwaite | 18/12/2014 15:03:09 |
![]() 45 forum posts 7 photos | Thanks Bob, An interesting way round the problem. David |
UJ Newton | 18/12/2014 15:46:20 |
23 forum posts | For a steady I use a knurling tool with the knurled rollers replaced.. |
David Haythornthwaite | 18/12/2014 20:14:35 |
![]() 45 forum posts 7 photos | What a good Idea. I would not be able to get the support quite as close to the cutting point on my setup, but I shall investigate. Thanks David |
Nobby | 18/12/2014 22:37:45 |
![]() 587 forum posts 113 photos | Hi David and guys Nobby |
David Haythornthwaite | 19/01/2015 19:30:37 |
![]() 45 forum posts 7 photos | Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I finished up turning lengths of silver steel down to 2.2mm diameter to cut into 8BA studs. I used the rear tool post to hold a Phosphor Bronze bush round the rod, and set my topslide at right angles to the lathe bed (almost 90 deg - full right angles is impossible on a standard ML7 top slide.) The cutting tool (tangential) was adjusted by the top slide feed screw. I attach a photo of my setup. The finish was not as bad as it appears. Thanks - David Edited By David Haythornthwaite on 19/01/2015 19:32:13 |
Nick Hughes | 19/01/2015 19:44:25 |
![]() 307 forum posts 150 photos | Hemingway kits do a nice casting, that you machine and fit to the traveling steady mounting point on the Series 7 lathes:- **LINK** |
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