Postman Cometh Part 2

Obviously not a Boy Scout

Assuming you have a M3.5 tap for rethreading electrical boxes you could single point the valve spindle M3.5 as its a very similar dia to 4BA and tap the valve nut to suit

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Nope. I was a cub scout though. ................ But managed to get expelled so did not get to the lofty position of boy scout.

I seem to remember the final straw was something to do with a note book and drawings of Arkala. I do however still clearly remember the thick-ear from my father when he found out I had 'disgraced' the family.

I have ordered the required trinkets from Macc Models as they always seem to dispatch promptly. - I will press on with other areas of the construction.

Nick

... Hi George,

Many thanks. Which kits have you got and which one are you planning first.?

Nick

Stuart S50... 10V ... & the 'Progress' ... Birthday prezzie last year but never got round to starting one, always had other stuff to attend to, family etc, then making stuff to make stuff to make stuff with if you get my drift , so plan on starting in the new year, I use the term 'plan on' very loosely as something has always cropped up lately so..

George.

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Made the piston. After 'consultation' with the wise one decided to make it out of Aluminium.

A slug was tuned down to 4 thou under the bore size.

The bottom side had a recess let into it then drilled and tapped to 2 BA

Grooves for the piston rings were cut.

It was then parted off a tad over size, reversed in the chuck and faced off to the required size. A recess was then let into it with a boring bar.

The finished up and down thingy.

I could then get the final measurement for the length of the piston rod as I had deliberately made it a lttle on the long side until I had ref points from the top and bottom of the piston.

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 15/12/2015 23:11:34

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Did some work on the eccentric.

I decided to make a filing guide. Two stepped buttons were turned.

One had a 6mm clear hole in it. The other had a 6mm thread tapped into it.

And went together thus.

Filing commenced.

Then a bit of dressing. I will give it a final finish and polish at assembly time.

And how it's all starting to look like an engine.

Nick

Looking good, will it be finished by Xmas?

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Which year.?

But I must admit to starting to think about paint types and colours.

Nick

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Hi Guy's. Need a bit of advice please.

I have to produce this :-

From this :-

I feel confident on the general machining but the top has a cosmetic dome to it. It is I realise not a precise size, it just has to 'look right'.!

I have never had to do such. What is the best way please.? A form tool.? If such what is the best way of making such.?

Or is there another way.?

Cheers, Nick

Too big an area to do with a form tool which will result in a lot of chatter.

I would use a HSS tool with a bull nose end to do the concave outer part and then freehand the convex central part. You can refine the basic shape by hand turning much like woodturning with a hand held tool and finally use a bit of emerycloth. I would leave the machined top surface a little over thickness and then take a final skim once the shaping has been completed just incase you mark it.

Edited By JasonB on 21/12/2015 19:31:05

For brass or aluminium I actually use a wood turning scraper to cut curves. I sometimes file a bit of sheet metal as a template, a bit of cardboard will do ok for a one off job.

Ian S C

Nick,

If you can afford the Multisize chuck set you can afford a posh boring bar, if that one is not solid carbide, you should try one, wish I had more

Kwil, his bars are solid carbide came from the same auction site as the chuck (s) all for very reasonable amounts

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I have been busy.

Nick

I see the postman had some paint left over from doing his boxes. Looking good.

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Busy and effective !!

MichaelG.

Looks an excellent job... must get started on my '2016 projects'... hopefully this year

George.

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I admit it is a bit on the red side.

I picked it from a swatch at a local place near me that will mix the satin paint into an aerosol. - I was sure it looked darker / crimson on the swatch.

I also took your advice and have given a couple of coats of satin lacquer of the type used on motorbike petrol tanks.

Rounding off and reducing the size of the cylinder flanges and getting the size the same as the valve chest was a bit nerve wracking but went smoothly once I had grown a pair to actually do it.! - Again I took your advice and made them smaller than the end covers so that the wooden planked cylinder will flow into them.

On the subject of the wooden cladding. I was thinking of attaching them with super glue then staining / sealing them with linseed oil. Is this a good idea or bad.? Then to trim them up with brass banding.

Nick

Thats what I did on the Tidman. The other option is to stick them all onto a piece of linen (old hanky) making sure not to get glue on the edges. Once dry this can be wrapped around the cylinder and then the banding will hold it in place.

Edited By JasonB on 15/01/2016 18:21:10

I do tip my hat to you gentleman that knock out these engines and loco's! Not really my thing, but man, the craftsmanship and techniques used is inspiring!

G.

Edited By Grant Nicholas on 15/01/2016 20:36:20