TIG welding

One of the problems with some of the cheaper auto darkening helmets is that they don't go very clear when there is no arc and you often can't turn down the darkness enough when it is dark. I really struggled to see what I was doing with my first Xmas Cracker helmet and finally forked out a bit more on a proper Miller helmet, then a Lincoln one which didn't need to be manually turned on before use each time. Once I had the Miller, I also realised that in fact the crappy one wasn't darkening evenly and consistently across the whole lens and I couldn't turn it down far enough to see properly either.

I would recommend using a light to illuminate the work so you can get things lined up before striking the arc. Although the auto darkening feature is triggered by the light of the arc, they can tolerate a fair bit of illumination before that happens. It's also worth getting a large lens - the larger the better. And get the helmet close to the action so you get a really good view. It's even more important to get a good helmet for TIG, as there is a lot more to get right. MIG is more like a hot glue gun.

The other issue I had was due to the reduced range of vision we suffer from when we get into our late 40s. This prevents us seeing things that are close without reading glasses - or looking downwards through varifocals if you already wear glasses. The ideal viewing distance for me seemed to be closer than I could focus when looking forwards through my varifocal glasses. The varifocal feature wasn't much use, as you don't tend to weld with your eyes pointing downwards, which is how they work. However, you can buy magnifying lenses from most of the major helmet suppliers. These clip in behind the window and allow you to see what is going on. Definitely recommended.

Murray

Good idea re the magnifying lenses, Murray. After many years of using the standard helmets, I finally lashed out on a auto darkener...what a revelation. Had to get a level of trust going though, will it darken as required or will I cop a all too familiar grit in eyes syndrome of a welding flash....I still tend to squint when striking an arc as a precaution! Andrew

Years ago when Mig welding chassi repairs sometimes when working in a shaded area the auto darkening could be slow and arc eye was the result.

Paul.

Jesse,

I will never ever complain about receiving advise or help.

Not having done any gas welding for so long, I think it's frustration creeping in at not getting it right immediately.

I need to make one of those weighted pointy hold-down doodabs to stop the practice pieces getting away.

Now that the Carport roof appears to be staying put in the present near gale force winds, leaks cured, and once the floor paint has dried, I will be back practicing.

Need to get the basics right before tackling on-car welds, but thankfully not many of those.

Thanks to all for the advice shared.

Geoff - Yesterday just managed in time, to stop GD from walking on the wet paint. Whew!

Right,lets just dispel the myth that you'll get "Arc Eye" if the lens fails to Auto Darken, you won't!

For the same reason that you won't get a suntan when sunbathing behind glass, The UV rays are absorbed/blocked by the glass/lens in it's "Clear" mode

You can get the Dazzled blind spot from the arc brightness (that gives a good excuse for a brew while is passes), but not true UV (Sunburn) damage to the eye surface.

True "Arc Eye" when using an Auto helmet comes from the UV getting reflected back into the helmet from behind (passed your head), e.g.from light coloured workshop walls and low ceilings.

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 05/05/2015 14:54:04

Nick - agreed if you buy good quality unit, but with the rubbish on ebay for under £50 you would have to be bonkers to trust it against UV and IR. Might be ok for 3 seconds at 80 amps but I got a 3am wake up call using one such unit, so never again!

This is an example of Tig brazing at its best, Sifbronze make a rod just for this.... I wish I could say it was my work but its not...

Edited By Involute Curve on 05/05/2015 16:32:43

It seems a shame to cover it up. Very professional.

Blimey! That's almost a work of art!

Neil

I think its Sifbronze No 32 if I remember correctly, specifically for use with Tig brazing.

Shaun

That's interesting Nick, I purchased my "lid" from a welding supply store but that does not necessarily mean than it's prime quality other than the fact that I asked for a good quality unit. Will need to double check that it's got the UV filter in the clear mode as your described. Cheers, Andrew

Re UV protection.
There was a study years ago and they found that a £1 pair of plastic sunglasses gave just the same amount of UV protection as a £100 pair of sunglasses, so there is no reason that a cheap auto dark helmet will be worse than an expensive one before the visor goes dark. However it may not operate as quickly or as well.
My welder friend said they always wore wrap around sun glasses and used a couple of shades lighter on the visor because of the weld flashes from other welders on site.

Steve

That frame is lovely, my dads brazing was like that using O/A and a gas fluxer, he also used sifbronze rods. Pity I've not got any photos but it was before camera phones, in fact it was before mobile phones!

Steve

Clogs,

You are probably right saying a stupid question as there is not enough information, the bit missing is material thickness, thicker material needs more current.

As rough guide 1/16 aluminium needs about 55 to 75 amps, 1/4 up to 220amps and 1/2 close to 300amps. Copper has a big power requirement and for 1/8 probably needs 250amps. If you need a guide try here **LINK**

To get a reasonable AC/DC machine under a bag of sand and a foot pedal you may need to look at second user with all the pit falls that brings, save your pennies and brownie points and buy new.

Do not forget the consumables, gas is not cheap and needs to be factored in. Also when looking at machines take it to account the % at a particular power e.g. 250amp AC TIG Output @ 60% duty cycle.

Bob

That frame IS a work of art. I see stuff like this and wonder why I bother sometimes, but then it gives me something to aspire to.

Not that I will ever as I just don't get the "practice" in that someone doing it every day does. Very impressive.

graham.

Hello Clogs,

There is no such thing as a stupid question and do not listen to those who tell you that there is.

For your application and on a budget I'd look at the units made by Thermal Arc. Go for a 200 amp model, something like this:-

http://www.rapidwelding.com/dynamic/DisplayItem.aspx?c=W1003803&zl=3

This unit has most of the features you'd need, HF start is a good one as is controllable down slope.

It is possible to weld 1/4 inch aluminium on a lot less than 220A, and 1/2 on less than 300A. I've regularly done this in my job. 1/4 would be about 120-150A.

I think Sealey still do a fairly decent AC/DC tig unit, about 160A. I had one and it compared reasonably well with a Kemppi one I also used.

I think you'll end up paying in the region of £500 at very least. The thing is, there are applications where nothing else will do. I suppose it is a case of deciding if you fall into that category.

I fully endorse what Carl says above.

Blimey John, I'm going to print that one out and frame it!

Update.

Photos say it all.

This is the limit for my machine, set to its maximum amperage, and thankfully I won't be welding 1/4" every day.

This is the vice stand, photo to follow.

I will now only use MMA for quick and dirty welding as I spoke far too soon at my improving.

Well I did improve welding flat joins, but a real dogs breakfast on the type of corner weld I've 'succeeded' with using TIG.

Still need to do a lot more practice, but oh my word, what control you have.

Can see why people rave about using TIG.

Geoff - TIG for me from now on.