Member postings for andrew winks

Sounds like a good idea Brian, I had almost given up it. But with the addition of heat, wouldn't the PVC tape unravel?

I'll experiment anyway.

That's nice to hear, Jens.

Now for some steam through her veins!

Hi Paul, I've also tried the liquid....not too impressed. The reason being its difficult to get an even layer and suitable thickness of product over the area to be insulated...certainly only for low voltage apps.

Good advice all.

Reminds me of the many uses that the TUBE has. Shrink some different coloured sections on the handles of those wee allen keys to instantly ID the size. Also same for the workshop reading glasses, shrink some yellow sections onto the frames so I don't mix them up with the good office set...makes them easier to find amongst the clutter of the workbench as well!

Hi Paul, the Jaycar product is the one I speak of. Unless I have got it wrong, it's probably ok for 12 mm high voltagecable overheads but too bulky for workshop use...have you any experience with it?

Hi John, just took possession of a Fobco. Star, shipped from the homeland to Brisbane. It's in original condition but want to strip, clean and reassemble. The above posts are very helpful. Motor definitely needs bearings. Very impressed with the machine and the British Made label on the front of the table, heavy brute it is, thanks to Howard from Myford for finding this one.

Thanks all, I have worked out that the product I have is not really suitable for my needs. Something similar to standard insulation tape but with the application of heat, totally sealing the covering would be ideal. I don't think it's been invented yet? Hope I rote this rite! Cheers, Andrew

I purchased some heat shrink tape, supposed to ideal for insulation joints etc where you can't slide the standard HS tubing over. Suppliers spiel...

Heat shrinkable tape is an environmentally friendly heat melted adhesive lined polyolefin tape. This tape is primarily used for repair of electrical cabling and insulation, particularly when they can't be disconnected, but has many other uses as well.

Great concept but how does one hold it in place while heating the stuff to get it to firstly stick and then when heat applied to shrink it, how to stop it unraveling?

Also it's about 1 mm or 40 thou in thickness which seems pretty user non friendly, it there any how to use for dummies advice from the electromagicians out there?

cheers, Andrew

Simon, good onya for taking the comments constructively. As all have advised, read up everything you can.

Probably worth a mention but to blow down correctly, the water side and steam side need to be isolated inn turn when opening the drain.

My 5" gauge boiler has one gauge glass drain cock. If the water outlet is blocking steadily, the pressure will flow through the path of least resistance. So, it's possible that the water outlet can be almost completely blocked and blowdown will just clear the steam outlet.

The hands on that clock face turning way too quick and the guilt when needing a flashlight to make my way back to the house from the workshop, such is the hour.

How many of us have done an all nighter? Been so engrossed in a machining process and so keen to finish it in one session?!

Cheers, Andrew

I'm not quite at the steaming stage yet but really considered acquiring a distillation unit. As I already have a requirement for ultrapure water for my research business and the aquarium also receives pure water, makes sense to produce some extra for my copper boiler. Question is, I guess, how much water would be consumed by a 5" gauge boiler in a day. As an interest, I often test our tank water supply for phosphates and 2ppm is about the average. Total Dissolved Solids are also elevated but also begs the question of how to remove all flux residue etc from the boiler. Its had many an acid bath so I assume all is good. Also checked inside with a remote camera (to check integrity of silver brazing) and it looks clean.

Bruce, sorry for jumping in....John, a question about the gears. I scratch built mine to G Thomas plans, definitely needs the geared top roll. (Plans suggested the gear train may be an additional,extra.) Might sound dodgy, but why not just drive the top roll from the bottom using spur gears meshing nice and deep. The rolls will only ever open to about 2 mm and a bit of backlash is no harm when used at the limit of the machine? Thoughts.

Andrew

Hi Denis, is the rain water tank clean and does it get well flushed? We are on tank water exclusively and find the levels of phosphorus and dissolved solids are still pretty elevated even for topping up the aquarium. Probably a long shot but worth considering. What type of rain water tank? Concrete, plaster? Andrew

That's interesting Nick, I purchased my "lid" from a welding supply store but that does not necessarily mean than it's prime quality other than the fact that I asked for a good quality unit. Will need to double check that it's got the UV filter in the clear mode as your described. Cheers, Andrew

Good idea re the magnifying lenses, Murray. After many years of using the standard helmets, I finally lashed out on a auto darkener...what a revelation. Had to get a level of trust going though, will it darken as required or will I cop a all too familiar grit in eyes syndrome of a welding flash....I still tend to squint when striking an arc as a precaution! Andrew

Sounds like a good plan.Michael!

Just saw a new device on the market made by Janome, called the Edge. I'm thinking it may be adapted to cut brass shim, thin vinyl, etc for engine trimming, lettering, numbering, etc

looks like a home version of the CNC pantographs out there and probably a lot cheaper

Andrew

There was a glue years ago, formulation called urea formaldehyde. Was used in wooden boat manufacture and furniture, has anyone heard of this?

Interesting discussion and really gets me thinking about the machining I've been doing using scrap round section of all and any unknown origin. Exception has been stainless. I chucked a piece of scrap 1/2" round the other day and marvelled and the finish and ease of parting off so I assume this be of teh free turning variety. It's got me now searching for a supplier in Au who has a selection of sizes and sells at less than tonne lots. Can any reader assist? A few calls to some local suppliers result in stunned silence when enquired about free cutting steel.

Cheers, Andrew