Oompa Lumpa | 29/04/2014 19:38:34 |
888 forum posts 36 photos | Posted by D.A.G. on 29/04/2014 08:08:03:
How strange : Though I do not do any shooting , I have one of those BSA underleaver air rifles, but I believe it is a somewhat earlier model, they are lovely , and it still works perfectly. That will be a Lincoln Jeffries. These vintage rifles are much sought after by collectors and the "Junior" or Ladies model the most desirable as few survive. To keep the leather washer in pristine condition and prevent it drying out I would reccommend a couple of drops of oil into the loading port and then put the port in the loaded position and prop the rifle up against the wall butt down. The oil will run down into the chamber. I use Cenegar Oil but that is not something you find on every shelf so even 3in1 oil would do. Anything is better than nothing. graham. |
Neil Wyatt | 29/04/2014 20:44:55 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | When I was in the scouts we had a single little Webley target pistol, the type with the lift-up barrel over the top, probably .177? Of course all us teenagers had a 'Panther' (?) .177 pistol with a longer conventional barrel on the end - considerably less accurate IIRC. I remember I could shoot mine and watch the pellet droop as it flew once it was five or six years old! Neil |
Clive Hartland | 29/04/2014 22:29:58 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | Had a bit of a disappointment from yesterday with the bees, I saw the swarm emerge from the hive and it took nearly a half hour to settle very conveniently on a branch at the top of a ladder in the Holly tree. I took it on the branch and placed it directly on top of a prepared hive and settled them in, covered them up and left them to it. This morning I came back with a feeder and sugar water and they had gone! What i should have done is put down a board and thrown the bees down on it and let them march in, I normally do this but I was in a hurry yesterday, so my fault. The other swarms are doing fine and taking sugar water but the weather is not being kind again, if it is not warm the Queens will not fly and mate, also the Drones will not fly if its chilly or windy! I am also busy making up frames with wax foundation so the bees can store the honey. When I was a kid my earnest desire was to have an air pistol, I did get on, a Gat with half a dozen darts. It was not long before I was buying cat slugs and I became quite proficient with it. Able to hit a match box at about 20ft. Also had a Webley, and some good air rifles. I use one now, an Original mod 75 that is recoilless, it has a piston that moves back as the power piston goes forward. Being close to the fields we get rats and Squirrels. Had a rat the other day and later a Squirrel chewing up the peanut basket, yes, they bite through the wire!. Clive |
GaryM | 29/04/2014 23:57:50 |
![]() 314 forum posts 44 photos | Posted by Neil Wyatt on 29/04/2014 20:44:55:
When I was in the scouts we had a single little Webley target pistol, the type with the lift-up barrel over the top, probably .177? Of course all us teenagers had a 'Panther' (?) .177 pistol with a longer conventional barrel on the end - considerably less accurate IIRC. I remember I could shoot mine and watch the pellet droop as it flew once it was five or six years old! Neil I had a Gat air pistol in my early teens and it was absolutely rubbish but all I could afford. You had more chance of hitting a target by throwing the gun at it. When I got my first job at sixteen I treated myself to a Webley Senior pistol. Compared to the Gat it was a much more accurate and a thing of beauty (even though it was a weapon). Gary |
Steph | 30/04/2014 07:41:37 |
9 forum posts | I collected my first swarm this year, from one of my hives from a nearby juniper tree. I dropped them into a prepared polystyrene NUC box, locked them up for 2 days, opened them up on day 3 and saw they had already started with comb and brood production. So opened them up, within 4 hours they were swarming again. Half of them left never to be seen again and the other half with a new queen cell were left behind. I introduced a few part made frames with extra brood and stores, these are now doing well and staying put. Swarming is a good indication that either nectar or pollen flow in the area is drying up. or The hive is over crowded, ie no space for further expansion of stores or and brood or Queen is not performing 100% or Something else, and a New Queen has been produced. I have generally kept 1 decent size swarm every year and lost 3-5 other swarms, they only stay when everything is to there satisfaction. Keeping bees is probably the only rewarding hobby I have every had, where I am not in control of it and I just care take. I would recommend anyone who has a suitable area of garden or flat roof to keep bees. |
Clive Hartland | 30/04/2014 09:00:14 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | Steph, I would be more inclined to think that swarming is basically propagation of the species! To me its a case of an old Queen taking part of the hive population and departing to spread the bee population and to increase the Gene pool. A sad fact is that static hives where the swarms are rehoused tend to be inbred and it is essential every other year to add an outsider swarm to that gene pool. Swarming is a natural instinct as originally Honey bees were migratory as the African bee still is! Honey bees have been found embedded in Amber dated to 200 million years ago. Enjoy the rigors of beekeeping and as long as your health will let you, try and pr-plan your actions so that you buy in wax and frames and other hardware well in advance of the need. I do supply a local bee shop with swarms that are sound, with eggs and brood. My bees are not aggressive as some I have been near. I can walk about my hives with no protective kit. Clive |
Neil Wyatt | 30/04/2014 09:19:53 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | I'm impressed that Clive could hit anything with a Gat, let alone a matchbox! Neil |
Ian S C | 30/04/2014 12:39:14 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | I'v still got my Webley Premier .177, stripped it down a few months ago, washer is OK. Desided to use a plastic milk bottle full of water behind a target, and try it out (hadn't used it for a number of years), 25 yd first shot 1" high, through target and bottle, water every where, so it's still shooting about right, I put the other 4 pellets that I had with me with in reasonable area round the bull. It cost me $NZ 41--80, it lives in the original box. Ian S C |
Oompa Lumpa | 30/04/2014 21:24:31 |
888 forum posts 36 photos | Well, as planned we moved the Tom Senior Mill today. Pretty simple plan and to all our amazement worked flawlessly. Drive the pickup half into Bob's driveway so the rear wheels were in the gutter and as low as possible and approach from the rear with the Mill hanging off a 2 ton engine crane. Took maybe fifteen minutes. Bob's engine crane, bought to maneuver his new mill into place was just the business, he is quite justified looking happy with it. Amazing really, normally things never go this smoothly. My pal Jeff (shown hugging his new toy) now has it down at his Fabrication Shop and plans to do a bit of a clean up, repaint and re-grease over the next couple of weeks. Anyone know the RAL code for a Tom Senior Mill perchance? |
John Stevenson | 30/04/2014 21:33:24 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | Looks like RAL 6001 from the picture |
Neil Wyatt | 30/04/2014 21:42:59 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Not HAL 9000? Seriously, from the picture I'd say that colour has a wavelength of approximately 539 nm Visit that link and boggle that 'slightly bluish-green' can be so complex! Neil |
John Stevenson | 30/04/2014 21:51:56 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | Heretic.
Oh ye of little faith....................... |
Michael Gilligan | 30/04/2014 22:00:47 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Using the Mac "Digital Color Meter" I get a reading of R% = 20.6, B% = 32.9, G% = 26.5 That's from the front of the machine base, roughly central in the picture. Obviously that's a wild approximation, based on digital camera, web colours, etc. but it may be interesting to see how it compares. MichaelG. . P.S. Just to see how unreliable web colour approximations can be; try putting RAL 6001 into Google image search. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/04/2014 22:05:19 |
Michael Gilligan | 30/04/2014 23:02:18 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Graham I just found this on ebay ... Claims to be the correct Tom Senior colour MichaelG. . Edit: also found this, which might be of interest. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/04/2014 23:04:26 |
John McNamara | 01/05/2014 17:23:27 |
![]() 1377 forum posts 133 photos | Hi Air Gun buffs This is a good book (Modern reprint) although there are original copies around I have a Webley service rifle mark 2 got it when I was about 12... It is still very accurate.... Regards |
Muzzer | 02/05/2014 07:44:47 |
![]() 2904 forum posts 448 photos | Don't have the beer vouchers to buy the ballscrews yet and even if I did, I haven't worked out the dimensions etc I need to convert my BP clone X and Y axes to ballscrews and servo steppers. I have initially modelled how the current X-axis setup looks. I think I've got it about right now, so the next step will be to design a replacement left hand end bracket to take a stepper motor and a suitably modified ballscrew to mate with that. It's clear that the dimensions of my clone differ from the original BP, so it's just as well I didn't just copy standard conversion parts from the drawings. It's probably true that I could figure out the lengths etc quicker using a ruler and pencilCAD but converting those dimensions into a series of dimensioned 3D parts ready for machining is so quick and easy this way once you've got a finished assembly. If you change a part, the assembly and drawings update automatically and you don't get caught out. But this is also an opportunity to learn how to use 3D CAD - Solidworks in this case. I'm pleasantly surprised how easy it is to learn it to a useful level. Murray Edited By Muzzer on 02/05/2014 07:49:48 |
David Colwill | 02/05/2014 08:25:43 |
782 forum posts 40 photos | Murray, When I did my bridgeport clone I used 25mm ballscrews (the leadscrews were 32mm) and the ballnuts fitted straight in, I just had to tap a few holes. I drove the X and Y axis with 12nm steppers with mains steppermotor drivers from zapp automation (usual disclaimer). They drive the ballscrews 1:1 by toothed belt. I also did the Z axis by fitting a pulley directly onto the knee lift, in place of the existing handle but used a 2:1 reduction. The weight of the table eliminates any backlash. The machine has a DRO fitted and when you compare Mach 3 to the DRO there is very little error. I have limited the speed of the steppers to 3m / min on X and Y and 1m / min on Z. Going faster frightens me I didn't spend much time doing the conversion so it's a bit of a bodge but it has done some good work since and I'm glad I did it. Good luck. David |
Neal Swarbrick | 02/05/2014 12:41:44 |
![]() 5 forum posts 57 photos | Today I cut my first Thread on the Myford MF74. A 3/8 x 20TPI thread to adapt a 7/16 tool-post stud to a replacement (original, mind) top-slide that I scored from THAT auction site . . . . |
Rik Shaw | 02/05/2014 17:47:32 |
![]() 1494 forum posts 403 photos | Dismantled the old KENNEDY hacksaw recently acquired. Rusty bits placed in the acid bath for an overnight soak. (acidic mix actually made from hot tub PH minus chemical - remains to be seen if it works.) Tomorrow am going to this annual event - **LINK** - for the first time. My son tells me that a stall or two sells second hand engineering stuff so I might get to fritter Weather looking good for the boots this weekend - it will give me chance to try out my new invalid buggy, apologies in advance if I run you down! Rik |
Neil Wyatt | 02/05/2014 21:24:55 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Made a few neat tweaks to my bandsaw today. I need to move it more easily, so the main one was welding some 1/8 x 1" bar to reinforce the bottom of the feet (which had collapsed when I fitted heavy duty castors). Made a surprisingly good job of it, so I painted it with textured matt hammerite (just the base). Unfortunately, I noticed a 'bounce' that appeared a couple of weeks ago has got worse. careful inspection showed the weld cracked more than half way across It wasn't worth keeping using it, so I tried the 'weld with a lump of brass behind' trick, which failed. I've messages Tuff saws as they don't list a 1/2" x 1300 blade. Any new suggestions for suppliers of good bimetal blades? Neil
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