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Milling Chucks

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Chris Trice12/01/2011 00:26:12
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I use ER 25, R8, MT2 and Autolok collets and must confess I've had cutters shift in all of them except the Autolok (unsurprisingly). In all cases, it's been a case of insufficient tightening (obviously) on my part although it's surprised me on occasion given the amount of tightening torque I'd applied. I've also used the Myford deadlength quick release collets but only for work holding. I've used the MT2 collets, both drawbar type and front closing ring, in the Super 7 spindle and when the lathe is fitted with the Rodney vertical miller. The one thing that bothers me a bit is that the drawbar type have to be pulled very tight to be sure, which then involves a hefty whack to release them. I'm not sure this does spindle bearings any good. I've also got the myford ER conversion nose piece chuck which I might move over to given what's been written here and also to save the internal taper of the Myford spindle which can get scored if there's any slippage of the collet despite being hardened.
Ian S C12/01/2011 10:47:30
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7468 forum posts
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I have a Rexon vertical mill, with 3MT, the end of the spindle is threaded, and supplied with the mill is a threaded ring.  To remove the collet chuck, I loosen the draw bar and unscrew the ring, pushing the taper out of the spindle. Don't blame me if I'm doing it wrong, but I'm 100 per cent self taught, the machine, although bought new, had no instruction, or any other book with it, but I feel better doing this than wacking the draw bar. Ian S C
Chris Trice12/01/2011 11:28:38
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Hmmm, that's a good idea for my Schaublin 2MT ER collet adapter. Got me thinking now.
The Merry Miller12/01/2011 12:49:13
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For the benefit of those who have not come across the Myford ER collet range, Versaboss included, click on the link below.
It also includes the Myford patent range of MT2 collets .
 
 
The Merry Miller16/01/2011 20:22:59
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484 forum posts
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Now I have got the 2MT Posi-lock chuck up and running I'm a bit concerned about the force of impact  I needed to remove the chuck from the headstock spindle when thumping on the exposed end of the drawbar..
 
I'm using an improvised drawbar of 3/8" whit studding at the moment which is fully engaged inside the chuck 2MT ( I do intend to make a more rigid drawbar later)
 
My concern is that the impact is being referred back to the headstock spindle rear bearing (the lathe is a Myford ML7-R) and I'm not at all happy about that. (that's the impact not the lathe)
 
The alternative to axial impact is to use a spanner on the small flats on the chuck and impart radial welly, I'm not very excited about that either. 
 
Until I get my new workshop and install a proper mill I have to live with the gear I already have
so comments and/or suggestions will be very welcome.
The Merry Miller16/01/2011 20:34:21
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484 forum posts
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I've just been looking at the Hemingway fitted drawbar, you still have to thump it.
JasonB16/01/2011 20:44:27
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25215 forum posts
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Have a nut on the spindle that will clear the MT 2 taper then wind the nut off and it will push the chuck with it.
 
Jason
The Merry Miller16/01/2011 20:56:33
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Good'n Jason.
If you pardon the expression, jacking it off is just the job. Just tried it with a small catchplate and a peg spanner.

Edited By The Merry Miller on 16/01/2011 21:06:50

Ian S C17/01/2011 02:47:28
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7468 forum posts
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The nut I use for removing the chuck with I think has some thing to do with a 3Mt to 2MT adapterthat came with the mill.  Do most, or all small mills have a thread on the spindle nose, the only other thing I use it for is a large flycutter, maximum dia of cut 6". Ian S C
Nobby07/02/2011 23:28:27
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587 forum posts
113 photos
Hi
A little tip using these collets. You can use cutters with no thread ? Make a dummy center Cut from an old cutter . Srew in place tighten
Regards Nobby
DMB08/02/2011 16:05:53
1585 forum posts
1 photos
Hi all, I notice that there is still talk of `give it a bash` to remove MT chucks. I believe that I have described "my" system on another thread somewhere. I say "my" in the sense that it is what I use but not original thinking - I got the idea from elsewhere.
I have got a top hat shaped bar of steel on the top of my vertical mill spindle, secured to the spindle with 3 Allen grub screws. Inside the top hat, there is a trapped nut, cross-pinned to the drawbar. Top of the drawbar has another nut cross-pinned to it. The top hat was machined from very large AF Hex steel bar. Spanners on the flats of the top hat and the nut pinned to the top of the drawbar, the `hidden` trapped nut cannot go anywhere, forcing the drawbar to revolve but not move axially but will unscrew from the back of the 2MT taper on the Clarkson chuck, shoving same out of the female taper. Works like a dream!
Another thing, anyone got the damper ring jammed? My cure for that, is a disc of thin plastic, like a giant washer inside, stopping it sticking. The plastic was supplied by Nescafe, off the top of their tins!
NJH08/02/2011 17:11:22
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2314 forum posts
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Hi John
 
That sounds useful but I'm having trouble visualising it. Any chance of you posting a sketch please?
 
Regards
 
Norman
mgj08/02/2011 17:31:17
1017 forum posts
14 photos
Well this is why the Autolock has its damping ring in 2 MT, (but not in 3).

It is actually there to stiffen the assembly, but to remove, you wind that damping ring hard back on its threads against the spindle nose, take up the tension, and then, as with most tapers, a small tap or jar to the system, and out it comes with great ease.It should be tight when milling ot stiffen hte assembly.
 
It is only a professional version of what Jason is suggesting, but operated with a c spanner- and of course it has left hand hreads.
 
Posilock vs Autolock - the Autolock is a bit bulkier, but has a bit less tool overhang. I prefer the Autolocks method of stopping the collet from rotating. Beyond that there is not much other than price, - the autolock is more closely ground with less clearances, and while the Posilock is a bit more convenient to use in a proper milling taper, the Autolock will be vastly more rigid in 2MT with that damping ring properly tightened.

Edited By mgj on 08/02/2011 17:33:11

Peter G. Shaw10/02/2011 15:39:40
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1531 forum posts
44 photos
What John is describing is something similar to George McLatchie's design for the Warco MiniMill in MEW96 (Feb 2004). A very good idea which works like a dream.

All I want now is one for the lathe!
 
Regards,

Peter G. Shaw
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