Sandgrounder | 01/01/2021 07:21:04 |
256 forum posts 6 photos | I've used the plastic type shown by the OP on my S7 and the only fault I could see is that it requres a higher belt tension to prevent slipping, I've now replaced it with the original type of Brammer link belting made of rubber and canvas and I think it's better, I will add that this is just how it seems to be and I've not done any tests at all. John |
Kiwi Bloke | 01/01/2021 07:45:10 |
912 forum posts 3 photos | I'm another satisfied user of the Nu T belt - on the primary drive on my Super 7. These belts do stretch until they stabilize, but, as has been said, removing a link is easy and quick. I don't think it's been mentioned that they are supposed to run only in one direction, but, in practice, reverse running is OK. They are noisier than a sweet-running V belt, but don't seem to have the problem that some V belt drives can have, when a too-slack, vibrating belt is tightened, only to 'drum' annoyingly and incurably. This is said to be because of the link belt's higher internal damping characteristics. One might therefore expect a link belt to run hotter than a V belt, but, perhaps because of its greater flexibility (than some types of V belt), this doesn't seem to be a problem in practice. And they don't seem to degrade. I don't know whether they wear alloy pulleys more than conventional V belts though. The rivetted Brammer belt is perhaps best regarded as obsolete. I have a sneaky suspicion that the rivet-contacting-pulley problem is because the wrong section belt is sometimes sold. |
pgrbff | 01/01/2021 17:38:02 |
261 forum posts 31 photos | If I decide to stay with V belts is how do I choose a good one? |
Steviegtr | 01/01/2021 17:49:45 |
![]() 2668 forum posts 352 photos | Try these guys. Steve |
noel shelley | 01/01/2021 17:57:44 |
2308 forum posts 33 photos | Any power transmission/ bearing supplier worth their name will help you ! Noel |
pgrbff | 01/01/2021 18:01:15 |
261 forum posts 31 photos | Posted by noel shelley on 01/01/2021 17:57:44:
Any power transmission/ bearing supplier worth their name will help you ! Noel I have only ever bought belts for cars. Here in Italy they will sell you what they have on the shelf and I will be none the wiser. I'm sure quality/specs will vary. |
Grindstone Cowboy | 01/01/2021 18:12:14 |
1160 forum posts 73 photos | Just for interest, can anyone tell me which way round the link belts are supposed to run? Maybe I've been doing them a disservice all these years by having them backwards Rob |
Joe McKean | 01/01/2021 19:06:32 |
60 forum posts 3 photos | According to the instructions for the Nu T Link belt I have just fitted it runs equally well in either direction. I have only tried it one way round so cannot comment if this affects noise or vibration. Joe |
old mart | 01/01/2021 20:31:15 |
4655 forum posts 304 photos | There is a prefered direction, when the outside ends of the links face rearward. That said, there is no reason not to use them on a machine that can run in reverse. |
Hopper | 02/01/2021 00:42:50 |
![]() 7881 forum posts 397 photos | Posted by pgrbff on 01/01/2021 17:38:02:
If I decide to stay with V belts is how do I choose a good one? For Myfords etc I prefer to use the "cogged V belts" available from most suppliers. Its just a regular V belt but with toothed cutouts along the inner diameter that allow the belt to bend around smaller radiuses (Pedant Squad stand down!) such as lathe pulleys. They seem to grip very well with minimum tension too, which is kind to bearings especially on Myfords where the pivoting H bracket holding the countershaft invariably warps out of alignment under tension over the years, leaving the belt tight on the pulleys at the right hand end and loose on the pulleys at the lefthand end. LINIK shows the type of belt in principle. (UK Supplier, for illustration purposes only. No recommendation given.)
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John Olsen | 02/01/2021 03:30:05 |
1294 forum posts 108 photos 1 articles | I converted my ML7 to use poly V belts, the flat licorice strap type now common on cars. They are a great improvement, they don't get themselves or the pulleys as hot as the V belts. Hemingways do a kit of converting the Super 7, but that is not applicable to my machine. It is critical for the pulleys to align properly, one of my steps is slightly out and the belt will try to work sideways on that step. But that is not too important, I actually gave mine four steps so between those and the back gear and the VFD I have plenty of speed range to choose from. John |
Bob Mc | 12/12/2021 20:45:41 |
231 forum posts 50 photos | Hi All... I recently converted my Dore Westbury mill by removing the gearbox parts and fitted an extra central stepped pulley in order to step up the down the drive ratios, on trying it out with new vee type belts I noticed a distinct 'bump' at a particular point caused by a larger cross section of the belt at that point. I am sure others have had this problem and although there have been reccomendations for a particular company selling v belts I was wondering if there are some belts much better than others albeit more expensive which don't have this problem. Any advice gladly recieved. ..Bob. |
HOWARDT | 12/12/2021 20:53:10 |
1081 forum posts 39 photos | In the past always specified Fenner or Gates for belts. I don’t know where they are made these days but would expect them to be quality assessed better than the no name brands. |
Clive Foster | 12/12/2021 20:58:43 |
3630 forum posts 128 photos | Send it back. No standard size belt from a reputable manufacturer or brand will exhibit such a bump. Basically it's where the cords end. Used to be common on made to size belts where a long length was cut off a roll and joined. Over 20 years ago a friend had a long one made when he converted a Denbig drill from flat belt to Vee drive. Belt had a distinct bump where the loop joined. Clive |
Mark Rand | 12/12/2021 21:06:21 |
1505 forum posts 56 photos | They give a small improvement compared with a clapped out belt that has taken one or more 'sets' and not been run for more than 30 seconds. Other than that, they are as useful as gold plated loudspeaker wires or magnetic anti-std bracelets (i.e. not at all). If you aren't using the machine for a considerable time, slacken the belts or give it a spin every now and again. Bought genuine Nu-T-link Belt for an old ML7. Chucked it after three months and fitted a proper belt. |
Steviegtr | 12/12/2021 21:13:07 |
![]() 2668 forum posts 352 photos | Posted by Mark Rand on 12/12/2021 21:06:21:
They give a small improvement compared with a clapped out belt that has taken one or more 'sets' and not been run for more than 30 seconds. Other than that, they are as useful as gold plated loudspeaker wires or magnetic anti-std bracelets (i.e. not at all). If you aren't using the machine for a considerable time, slacken the belts or give it a spin every now and again. Bought genuine Nu-T-link Belt for an old ML7. Chucked it after three months and fitted a proper belt. +1 Steve. |
Ady1 | 12/12/2021 23:02:51 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | Just more convenient, and very hard wearing My original belting is now 10 years young and has a nicer softer feel to it compared to my newer t-link belting which is still a bit too stiff IMO If I was a semi-industrial user it would probably take a few months to bed in 100% Got enough to cover the rest of my shaper and 2 lathes lives (Just got to solution the future leadscrew nut renewal issue now...) I wish it had been about in the 80s for doing fan belts My own understanding of the direction of travel is that the belting in the picture would be going anti-clockwise Edited By Ady1 on 12/12/2021 23:12:05 |
Bob Mc | 13/12/2021 08:45:37 |
231 forum posts 50 photos | Thanks all... I should have been clearer that the belt is a solid vee belt but will have a look at the Fenner & Gates and see what they have got.
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larry phelan 1 | 13/12/2021 08:52:03 |
1346 forum posts 15 photos | They work fine, are easy to fit, but NOT CHEAP ! |
Alan | 13/12/2021 09:27:49 |
22 forum posts 9 photos | Would a toothed V belt work ok on a Myford Trilever..?? |
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