Precision Level or Precision Frame Level

I agree. I have both a 15" master precision level and an AliSensor electronic level, but both are really overkill - a simple good quality machinist's level long enough to fit across the ways is plenty adequate.

Much also depends on where the lathe is mounted. The surface of the stand or bench should be stable, flat and reasonably level. I have a 10x22 lathe that I built the stand for, including adjustable vibration isolating feet. In setting it , I first leveled the stand, making sure that all 4 feet were evenly loaded to eliminate any soft-foot issues. I then set the lathe in position on the stand, let it sit overnight, then re-checked & adjusted the stand as needed. Finally, I aligned the lathe using SS shims and bolted it to the stand.

As an aside, the AliSensor level did come in real handy when I set up my mill.......

Thanks for the offer Pete, I am a Man of Kent, born and bred in Margate but now live north of Bristol. I would also like to take the opportunity to thank all the other contributors to this thread. It has been interesting to see the wide range of differing opinions.

I recently downloaded an app from Google for a level, using it on a tablet and it records to 0.1 degree on horizontal surfaces, works a treat.

Emgee

.

Fine for what it is ... but orders of magnitude away from the performance required to 'level' a lathe.

MichaelG.

.

https://www.starrett.co.uk/shop/precision/shop_tools/precision_level/

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 23/01/2019 19:06:58

Made mine from a casting from College Engineering Supply, using their most sensitive vial.

Set it up on a surface table in the Standards room.

Don't know if the new owners still supply castings and vials.

Howard

For normal mortals the adjustable clinometer type is far more useful than a standard precision level. This is mine, a WW2 era gunners clinometer, about the only sort I'd give shop room. Hilger & Watts square frame ones are relatively common. Less sensitive than mine and a right royal pain to use in my view.

Although the vial isn't quite as sensitive as the very high end precision levels its more than adequate for any normal task. A thou per foot is quite easily seen. 10 degrees of adjustment means you can actually use the thing to bring something level without mucking about with by guess and by God shimming and waiting ages for a precision level bubble to stabilise. I have, albeit out on permanent loan, a couple of super levels which take the best part of a minute to stabilise. Never had much patience with them for the specific jobs they were made for. As general purpose devices a spectacular pain in the butt. But friend Mike wanted some really good levels to set up his lathe!

The small clinometer is a little over 6" long so easily switched round to zero in from both ways.

Clive

.

I have just found a good demonstration of levelling a lathe on Youtube (fast forward thru the first minute). The simulated model of a lathe shows what happens if is not aligned properly.

Paul

**LINK**

Nice find, Paul

MichaelG.

If one subscribes to Joe’s channel (like I do), one does not need to search, to find - they notify you when he puts up a new video.

.

But if one had never heard of Joe's channel; it's nice when someone shares a useful link.

... Thanks again, Paul

MichaelG.

I recently bought a level from arc euro, I chose the straight level not the frame one to save money. I wish I had bought the frame one. I am in the process of levelling my lathe now and don't regret getting a cheep one.

I read the spec 0.02mm/m and I understand it is pretty sensitive, but when i started playing with the level I truly appreciated how sensitive it is, a piece of tin foil is a mountain.

The level is too short to bridge the bed, and it is slightly too wide to sit along the slide way. It is not flat bottomed, it only has ground edges. Initial levelling I can use the cross slide. To do the full levelling need to make a bridge across the bed, with one end using a V slide way the other using the flat slide way. Some thing to think about if you buy a level.

I subscribe to Joe's channel … https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w

He has a lot of good videos to watch, very easy & simple explanations for just about anything that Model engineers would need in the home workshop.

George.

[This posting has been removed]

Yes, you can get different speed bubbles, faster on builders levels as you can't sit there all day faffing about with a slow bubble as your mortar will have gone firm or you will only have fixed a couple of studs in a day.

I think they are all barreled to some extent, the more sensitive the bubble the less barrel shaped it is see here

Edited By JasonB on 30/04/2019 13:30:58

My lathe is supported at only three points - well, two firmly bolted-down points and one which is nearly free-standing.

It just requires a shim or two on one side, or the other, of the tailstock fixing point (which is effectively free-floating because it is fitted with a spiral spring washer which should not be pulled down fully). I have never cared for the slope along the machine - it is what it is. The drip tray is also only 'levelled' to drain coolant/cutting oil/ lubricant away towards the drain.

As the lathe is adjusted as per manufacturer's instructions, I expect it is as good as those, with similar models, that go to great lengths to achieve a perfectly level lathe in every axis.

I think that too much technology is attempted to be applied to these small lathes. I can understand the need for more precision with a large lathe (one, where I worked was used for fairly precise shafts - probably over 6m long at times).

Or are the more modern lathes so far out of true that they need heaving back towards straightness?

[This posting has been removed]

True, but not better than one that is well mounted and set up.

regards Martin

[This posting has been removed]

Barrie,

Mine is a hobby lathe, not a commercial one (although doubtless many have been used for business purposes). I class it as small, it being 5” centre height and 24” between centres. It is not, however, built like some of the pathetic chinese offerings. When it was made, it was built up to a quality - not down to a price.

My lathes turn parallel and are not dead level as I deliberately tilted them slightly to improve coolant drainage from the drip tray.

If being dead level is a requirement, how do engineers on ships and submarines manage? They use lathes for repairs and I czbt see any level being of use on the open oceans