Michael Gilligan | 23/12/2017 22:12:44 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 23/12/2017 22:09:24:
... I would be inclined to fill the gap with a sliver of something and clamp the screw up tight. . Absolutely, Rod I forgot to mention that. MichaelG. |
not done it yet | 23/12/2017 23:39:35 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | Seems like flap wheel in an electric drill might be good enough? Or a cylinder hone? Edited By not done it yet on 23/12/2017 23:41:41 |
JasonB | 24/12/2017 07:09:08 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Or if you don't want to make a boring bar then what about a 1" blacksmiths drill in the drill press, would depend a bit on what speed the drill will come down two. |
Neil Wyatt | 24/12/2017 10:06:16 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | When you say a watchmaker's lathe, how small is it? Is it possible to clamp the block to the cross slide and use a tool held in a chuck to bore it out? If you mount the block upside down you will only need about 1" clearance over the cross slide. |
Michael Gilligan | 24/12/2017 10:31:34 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Neil Wyatt on 24/12/2017 10:06:16:
When you say a watchmaker's lathe, how small is it? Is it possible to clamp the block to the cross slide and use a tool held in a chuck to bore it out? If you mount the block upside down you will only need about 1" clearance over the cross slide. . If it's a traditional watchmaker's lathe, they usually don't have slides MichaelG. . Edit: This spare 'WW' style headstock is from Steve's Album: http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/163849/724452.jpg P.S. In his first ever post, Steve mentioned: "I've got an ancient belt driven "Champion No1" pillar drill." Edited By Michael Gilligan on 24/12/2017 10:45:55 |
JohnF | 24/12/2017 12:50:25 |
![]() 1243 forum posts 202 photos | Posted by Neil Wyatt on 23/12/2017 22:09:33:
Posted by JohnF on 23/12/2017 21:27:21:
Ditto everyone who has mentioned location -- why would you want/need to hide? Would help in north Lancashire Perhaps he's worried about being burgled or is concerned about identity theft? Neil Hi Neil, fair point but there is far more information available about you in the public domain--voting list, council rating list etc etc -- unless of course you live in tent ! Merry Christmas ! |
Howard Lewis | 24/12/2017 13:11:36 |
7227 forum posts 21 photos | Given a location, there will be lots of folk on here who would be happy to help, as already evidenced. I'm in Cambridgeshire, if that's any help. If you are near to anyone who has offered help and given their location, send them a P M. Howard |
Steve Crow | 24/12/2017 13:57:13 |
429 forum posts 268 photos | Firstly, thanks for the suggestions and the kind offers of help. Secondly, I’m not “trying to hide”. I’m just quite new to this forum and didn’t even realize I could set a location! I’m in North London, not far from Ally Pally. The clamp fit to the 1 inch bar has to be good as I will be adjusting and moving it a lot. I’ve tried files, abrasives and flap wheels on previous clamps and it seems impossible achieve a good parallel hole that grips on its entire surface. It’s slow tedious work as well. My Lathe is an 8mm with no cross slide and my drill has a capacity of 1/4 inch so machining is out of the question. I hope this clarifies what I actually need and the limits of my workshop. Any more suggestion would be most welcome. Cheers Steve |
Brian Wood | 24/12/2017 14:26:12 |
2742 forum posts 39 photos | Hello Steve, If precision is needed then I think you need help from someone with bigger machinery than yours. Living where you do gives you a big reservoir to appeal to.. Brian |
Michael Gilligan | 24/12/2017 15:06:36 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Steve, I don't want to labour this, but ... boring on the drilling machine [as I suggested, and Rod endorsed] seems an entirely reasonable approach. MichaelG. |
Steve Crow | 24/12/2017 15:20:35 |
429 forum posts 268 photos | Thank you Michael but I'm finding it hard to visualize the set up you described. Perhaps you could clarify a little or post a sketch? I would like to do this myself and your method sounds intriguing. Cheers Steve
|
Michael Gilligan | 24/12/2017 17:18:17 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Steve Crow on 24/12/2017 15:20:35: Thank you Michael but I'm finding it hard to visualize the set up you described. Perhaps you could clarify a little or post a sketch? . Steve, Your junk box may differ from mine, but; what I would do is take a long 5/16" caphead screw and cut off the threaded portion leaving the plain shank and the head. Cross-drill the head 1/8" diameter, and insert the shank of a broken HSS drill or milling cutter ... fix this by silver soldering, or with Loctite 638. Grind the inserted bit to make a single point cutter which sweeps a 1/2" radius at the tip ... remember to check the actual diameter of the screw shank and measure accordingly. This is your boring bar. Centre the 25mm hole on the drill axis and clamp it in place [with suitable packing/spacers] Then just operate the drilling machine normally. I hope that makes sense ... Domestic duties are calling MichaelG.
|
JasonB | 24/12/2017 17:37:27 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | This is the sort of thing Michael is describing. As you only have 1/4" drill capacity you may need to come down to an M6 or 1/4" cap head bolt or could reduce part of an 8mm or 10mm bar down to 6mm in your lathe. If you make from bar then set the cross hole up from the end a bit more and drill and tap for a grub screw to hold the cutter then it is more easily adjusted. |
Michael Gilligan | 24/12/2017 17:40:47 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Well done, Jason Thanks MichaelG. . Sorry, I didn't check the capacity of the Champion No.1 http://www.lathes.co.uk/champion-drill/ Edited By Michael Gilligan on 24/12/2017 17:43:58 |
Brian Wood | 24/12/2017 18:02:26 |
2742 forum posts 39 photos | Most ingenious thinking Michael; JS would have been proud of that Brian |
Les Jones 1 | 24/12/2017 18:21:55 |
2292 forum posts 159 photos | I don't think the bearing on a normal drilling machine wil be good enough for that method to work. Les. |
David George 1 | 24/12/2017 19:38:54 |
![]() 2110 forum posts 565 photos | I have used a similar boring bar with no problem just needs a guide nose to locate bar. Use plenty of lubrication and run slowly with job clamped well. David |
Michael Gilligan | 24/12/2017 19:55:51 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Les Jones 1 on 24/12/2017 18:21:55: I don't think the bearing on a normal drilling machine wil be good enough for that method to work. Les. . Sorry, Les ... I don't know what constitutes a 'normal drilling machine' so I can't really comment. But, in Steve's situation I would certainly give it a try. MichaelG.
|
JasonB | 24/12/2017 20:03:23 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Few pics of the type of bar being suggested in a normal drill press about half way down this page. |
Ian S C | 26/12/2017 09:49:29 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | A tool makers reamer could be made up, wouldn't even need to be hardened for aluminium. Cut the slope on the cutting edge at about 20*, +-, it doesn't really matter. Ian S C Edited By Ian S C on 26/12/2017 09:52:14 |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.