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Polishing Brass - or where to get P5000 paper

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Steve Withnell31/07/2016 11:07:05
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858 forum posts
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Posted by Michael Gilligan on 30/07/2016 14:00:21:

Snipped...

They drummed it into us that each successive fineness of filing/abrasion/polishing should be done at right-angles to the last, and must be continued until all trace of the previous work is removed. ... If this is not done, then [as I mentioned earlier] you will end up 'polishing-up the scratches'.

MichaelG.

Thanks Michael, that's a really good learning point for me.

Steve

Robin Graham31/07/2016 23:27:18
1089 forum posts
345 photos

Well, the Autosol arrived today - ordered off Amazon about 5pm Saturday, and with me by Sunday noon! How do they do that? Anyhow, it's pretty good stuff - thanks for the recommendations. The scratches on my work are now shiny scratches! I think Bob Stevenson's caveats apply to me - trying to get a mirror finish in a dusty home workshop is unlikely to be successful because of cross contamination. It probably doesn't matter, the guy I'm doing this for is hardly likely take a microscope to the work and cancel the cheque because of a 5 micron scratch - but I've got a bee in my bonnet now.

Rob

Neil Lickfold01/08/2016 09:42:25
1025 forum posts
204 photos

Some really good info in the above posts. What can cause scratching and effect your finish is the polishing cloth you are using. Home paper towels are terrible at scratching. Lens wipes are very good and so is Hydraulic lint free wipes. Cotton cheese cloth that car polishers use is very good as well. Very soft balsa wood makes for a great lap and very fine polishing compound holder as well. A little bit of very fine diamond in balsa wood lasts a long time and works well. The hardest part of it all is to keep the contaminants away from one process to the other. You just can not ever be too clean when it comes to polishing. Cleaning is essential between grades . The finer the finish the more it is involved, especially at keeping the contour to form is definitely easier said than done. There are lots of little tricks to keep the form correct and each situation will use a combination of ways to achieve this. Like polishing in 2 directions to ensure you have the scratches from the previous grit fully removed before going to the next level, etc.

Neil

Jon Gibbs01/08/2016 10:53:31
750 forum posts

Hi Neil,

I'm not sure whether you know this site or not but there's a lot of good info and products here... **LINK**

I've no association with them, just a satisfied customer.

I use tripoli on wooden items but it's original purpose is as a first stage abrasive for brass polishing I believe.

HTH

Jon

Robin Graham27/09/2016 23:41:16
1089 forum posts
345 photos

A while since I started this thread I know, but as there was some interest I thought I should report on a recent discovery - a box of diamond pastes hidden in a drawer. I have no idea of why or when I bought them (from Arc Euro according to the labels), but the kit goes down to 0,5 microns - hand polishing down to that with those bog-standard yellow dusting cloths gives a very fine finish indeed. As an experiment I tried to further refine the surface with Autosol, using the same technique, but it was a retrograde step.

Rob.

Edited By Robin Graham on 28/09/2016 00:10:03

Michael Gilligan27/09/2016 23:56:51
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

Very interesting, Robin ... Thanks for reporting back.

MichaelG.

.

P.S. ... Don't tell John Stevenson [he doesn't believe microns exist].

John Stevenson28/09/2016 04:58:44
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5068 forum posts
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They do but only if you have a million of them otherwise the angels fall off
Clive Hartland28/09/2016 08:42:54
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2929 forum posts
41 photos

Just seen this, a good polishing base is some Chamoi leather stretched over a piece of suitable wood and then apply polishing medium to the leather. Keep wet with medium used.

Clive

Chris Evans 628/09/2016 08:52:06
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2156 forum posts

I spent my working life in Injection mould making where hardened steel moulds had to be polished to mirror like finishes. Think transparent plastic like spectacle lenses. Car door and lorry mirrors. I could never achieve the level of polish the polishing section could. They would make comments like "highly polished and deeply scratched"

After going through lots of abrasive grades diamond past was used with a special lubricant, paraffin would scratch the polished surface.

Ajohnw28/09/2016 16:56:48
3631 forum posts
160 photos

There are a number of polishing and lapping options around and on this page.

**LINK**

John

-

Robin Graham04/10/2016 23:13:59
1089 forum posts
345 photos

Thanks for further replies. As I now have about 5 million (× 10-6 orders for this shiny thing I'm making, it's been worth making some systematic experiments based on the info in this thread and in other places.

My aim was to polish the faces of two inch diameter brass discs as quickly as possible. I tried various methods - going through the grades of wet'n'dry on plate glass followed by tripoli and the blue compound on machine driven mops, going through the belts on a linisher, Autotosol on a mop at various stages etc etc - I tried many permutations.

It turned out (to my surprise) that I could take machining marks out in less than a minute per face using an A6 (roughly P2000) Trizact belt on the linisher without going through the grades - the belt was already on the machine,and laziness was the mother of this discovery for sure. Trizacts cut fast and don't seem to clog at all.

From there, Autosol on a machine driven G-type loose-leaf cotton mop gave about the same finish as Tripoli/blue compounds, on their individual G mops , but much faster. I had assumed that aggressive and coarse went together, but not so.

Final hand polishing with 2, 1, 0.5, 0.25 micron diamond pastes gives a specular surface - but if a fly coughs on it....

Rob.

 

 

Edited By Robin Graham on 04/10/2016 23:23:56

Neil Wyatt05/10/2016 11:04:49
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles
Posted by Robin Graham on 04/10/2016 23:13:59:

Thanks for further replies. As I now have about 5 million (× 10-6 orders for this shiny thing I'm making, it's been worth making some systematic experiments based on the info in this thread and in other places.

:

:

:

Final hand polishing with 2, 1, 0.5, 0.25 micron diamond pastes gives a specular surface - but if a fly coughs on it....

I think my Jovilabe is going to have an enclosed gearbox

KWIL05/10/2016 12:21:47
3681 forum posts
70 photos

Up to P7000

**LINK**

Robin Graham05/10/2016 22:06:11
1089 forum posts
345 photos

Had to google Jovilabe - wow, I want one.

Thanks for the link KWIL - duly ordered. An Amazon reviewer bought them for getting fine points on pencils - and I thought I was being obsessive/compulsive! A mild case it seems.

Rob.

Michael Gilligan05/10/2016 22:15:32
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by Robin Graham on 05/10/2016 22:06:11:

Had to google Jovilabe - wow, I want one.

.

Robin,

I hope you found this excellent video **LINK**

http://brunelleschi.imss.fi.it/itineraries/multimedia/Jovilabe.html

MichaelG.

Neil Wyatt18/10/2016 21:32:43
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

I must admit I am not getting a gold-medal finish on my gears...

But I am getting a reasonable polish (mirror-like with a few flaws) following this procedure:

Using wet and dry on a my granite 'surface plate' I am doing an initial run on 180 grit untill all machining marks disappear.

Then at 90-degrees with 280 grit.

Lastly circular movements with 400 grit until you can't see any straight lines, 30-40 seconds, perhaps.

The above takes 3-4 minutes for an average brass gear about 30mm diameter.

Final polish is with silver/brass liquid polish on a sheet of 1/16" ply - which goes jet black in seconds!

This certainly achieves a polish my mum would have approved off, if not a gold-medal result. I think another stage with 600 grit would probably be the way to go for that.

Foolish me made all the gears with a 1mm boss underneath, so I am not doing as through a job but these surfaces will only be visible as reflections in other gears anyway :-0

Neil

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