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What do i need for my new setup

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Sam Longley 108/01/2016 07:38:25
965 forum posts
34 photos

One of my other problems is indexable tooling. If I buy a , say, L hand cutter & forget who I got it from then how can i tell if I can get matching bits somewhere else. In other words are bits graded for shape & size somehow as well as material to be cut?

I do have a single indexible cutter but the bits are pretty useless. If for instance I am taking the first cut on a slightly out of shape round & the bit misses then hits it breaks the tips immediately. I had some carbide tools that did the same on the lightest of cuts. Even on very light cuts. I seem to get infinitely better results with HSS ground myself

I do not understand why when i see tipped milling cutters cutting on part of a radius then missing part of the circumfrence then cutting again they do not break as they suddenly hit the material. All mine have!!

JasonB08/01/2016 07:47:25
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

Most of the holders take standard inserts, a few cheap sets have almost "unique" inserts and should be avoided. If you look for holders that take CCMT or CCGT shape you won't go far wrong and on a 250 size lathe the next number in the code is the size and the 06 will be quite adequate. 10mm shank tools would be about right too.

I find a right hand holder more useful as you cab turn and face with that without moving the tool in the post

Should not be a problem on interupted cuts its either the way you have them set up or are using them. I use mine on some quite big iron castings that give a very interupted cut with no problems.

Howi08/01/2016 09:21:42
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442 forum posts
19 photos

Make sure the torq screw holding the insert  is done up quite tight, if it is at all loose the tips will shatter on interrupted cuts. Tips designed for aluminium seem to work well on most materials, steel, brass etc

Plenty of choice on ebay

ega08/01/2016 09:36:13
2805 forum posts
219 photos

I have often wondered how much torque to apply to these Torx screws.

Muzzer08/01/2016 09:56:44
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2904 forum posts
448 photos

Inserts follow an international system defined in an ISO standard. All the manufacturers publish data for their inserts. Here's one from Korloy for turning inserts. As you can see there are many different shapes and sizes.

There are also different grades of carbide used for cutting different materials as well as for interrupted cuts. However for ME use, the general purpose inserts are generally fine. But the fee inserts you got with your tool are probably made from fudge.

APT Tools in Glasgow offer a good range of inserts at good prices with fast delivery. There are also many deals to be found on ebay and AliXpress oce you know what you are after.

Murray

Mark P.08/01/2016 10:03:10
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634 forum posts
9 photos

Jason I'm pleased to see your lathe is as grubby as mine!

Mark P.

Muzzer08/01/2016 10:21:44
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2904 forum posts
448 photos

ega - for CC*T 06-sized inserts, the torque for the M2.5 Torx screw seems to be 0.9Nm according to Sandvik Coromant's recommendations. See page 174 of this massive catalogue.

torx screw torques.jpg

Vic08/01/2016 12:40:57
3453 forum posts
23 photos

Proper Sandvik screwdriver style Torx drivers have handles sized according to the screw size so you're less likely to over torque them, at least that's the hope! I'm not even sure now that they are standard Torx screws?

ega08/01/2016 12:51:16
2805 forum posts
219 photos

Muzzer:

As you say, massive! Thanks for the helpful reference.

Vic:

Sandvik refer to "Torx Plus" which may, indeed, be different from standard - perhaps, in the shape of the head. These screws are notoriously expensive and easy to drop.

KWIL08/01/2016 14:31:42
3681 forum posts
70 photos

JB Tools sell Flag Torx keys and screws.Screws from £2.50, hardly notoriously expensive. Jenny is at the Shows.

see JBCUTTINGTOOLS.COM

Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied customer.

ega08/01/2016 15:20:51
2805 forum posts
219 photos

I have now discovered that Sandvik do a range of specialised torque drivers for tightening Torx screws:

http://www2.coromant.sandvik.com/coromant/pdf/smallparts/catalogue_04_2/inch/194-200.pdf

KWIL:

Thanks for the JB pointer.

Sam Longley 116/01/2016 19:32:37
965 forum posts
34 photos

Well the payment has been made & delivery arranged for within 10 days

i bought a Warco WM 250 lathe The WM 16 mills. Do not know if I have made a good choice or not. Time will tell

Accessories were only, fly cutter & some HSS inserts, quick change toolpost, set of indexible cutters. Collet chuck & collets. set of end mills, toolpost die holder. I did want a boring head but was not sure what sort. I need a better vice but my existing one will do until I have had some experience. Could not find a Glance holders so just bought cheap to get a start

I nearly bought a rotary table but another model maker I spoke to advised me against the one I was looking at as he felt it was not suitable for a mill. It was him that advised me against the WM 14 mill as he said one never has one big enough & he had already made that mistake. I need some means of dividing but am not sure what yet.

I have some tools plus tool post chuck etc & a selection of HSS cutters , cut off tools , between centres boring bars . measuring gear , dials etc so i have something to experiment with

So I am just going to play around & get a feel for things. I have some Tufnol parts i need to make & that will keep me occupied for a couple of days

So once I get it set up I will just machine some bits & see how it goes

Edited By JasonB on 17/01/2016 13:20:08

mechman4817/01/2016 10:01:55
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2947 forum posts
468 photos

I bought The Warco WM250V-F & the WM 16 back in 2012 from the Harrogate exhibition & so far I really can't complain with either machine. I'm sure you'll find your 240 & WM 16 satisfactory for your needs. I did prefer the WM 18 but got some tooling with the difference in price & the difference between MT2 & 3, for me is negligible now.

George.

John Haine17/01/2016 11:57:14
5563 forum posts
322 photos

Just on the MT vs. R8 topic (unless it's too late!)...

There's little point in buying a separate collet chuck which reduces rigidity and headroom that you mount in the mill spindle. You only need a limited range of collets for mills as they come in small range of sizes. R8 collets are quite inexpensive - one-off from Arc they are £4.49 whereas ER32s are £5.18 and you need the chuck too. R8 doesn't get stuck and holds like the proverbial. I have R8 on my VMB and I mainly use 8, 10, 12, 16 mm and the nearest imperial equivalents. You can always buy extra collets for different sizes as you need them.

Michael Gilligan17/01/2016 12:48:54
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 17/01/2016 12:44:37:

Actually i meant to type WM 250 not 240 but i cannot see how to edit it just yet

.

Sam,

It's too late for you to edit now

... Perhaps a Moderator will edit it for you.

MichaelG.

JasonB17/01/2016 13:20:41
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

Done

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