Member postings for mechman48

I have a WM250C-F & I fitted a 'Bison' version of the Dickson QCTP when I swapped out the original 4 way t/post ; I had to machine the boss off the compound slide & fit a new t/post bolt to fit the 'Bison' QCTP. I still have the original toolpost & if I ever need it I will simply make an insert to fit & fill the gap.

George.

Two tappings 180* apart would provide enough access for adjustment.

George.

How about drilling / tapping say M3 / M4 in one side of both nuts, insert a nylon plug & then screw in a M3/4 grub screw & tighten as required to hold nuts in place ...

George.

I have a selection of hammers to use; I have one that has replaceable heads, rubber, plastic, nylon, then I have a lb dead blow ( Clarks .. usual disclaimer ). I have also made a couple of brass headed hammers for use on the lathe; 1 approx 12 oz & other approx 8 0z,plus a 2lb ball pein that I have from my early fitter days which I had shortened the handle to feel nicely balanced for my swing. I mainly use the dead blow for tapping down in the mill vice & the two brass headed for centre popping & tapping objects in the lathe, the rest are now classed as ' nice to have'.

George.

This is also my preferred method, have also used the two chuck keys method.I find this one the easiest.

George.

'I wish to nut a 3/8 external groove in steel ' ...do you mean a ' Glasgow kiss' .. I'd much prefer to give a 'knuckle sandwich'... ... I'll just get my coat.

George.

JB weld, 2 part epoxy filler, P38 auto filler, Gorilla two part metal filler ( Dries grey  to name but a few, silicon sealant may do it but I've only seen it in clear, white, black, brown, usual disclaimer applies.

George.

I'm ashamed to admit it but being an ex instructor & doing what Howard said with my group of apprentices; I have sadly got into the routine of giving my cave a good going over just once a week, not every session, .. . lathe swarf cleared away, any mill swarf goes down the same route, machines wiped down & oiled,with the machinery colours now looking its age ( 8 ) I sometimes wonder if I have cleaned up at all. The floor matting gets lifted once in a while... & gets a severe looking at with brush & Hoover. It must be my age .

George.

.. 'The gears should be meshed with a piece of card or paper between them, about 0.003" (0.075 mm ) thick to set the correct amount of backlash. Obviously, remove once the meshing has been set'...

+1 for all comments. I've set my backlash as above with a piece of A4 paper, doubled over, for each gear on the banjo... as for lubricating the gears I use motor bike chain oil...

George.

£458.37 at todays rates, Machine mart also sell similar...

**LINK**

George.

+1.. I have a WM250V-F & a WM 16 mill as separate items, the powered cross feed on the lathe is a boon for these lathes. I wished I had bought the WM 20 mill as I have the room for it & had a lot of MT3 tooling, but considering the WM16 was part of a package deal from Warco's stand at Harrowgate exhibition I accepted the compromise. I would thoroughly recommend you fit a X & Y axis read out to the mill as I have done, it takes the hassle out of setting dials & removing backlash.

George.

Hi Jeremy; Have a look here...a few nice little tools to get you started

**LINK**

From Stan Brays book on internet archive.

George.

Welcome Ivan... Have a look here...

**LINK**

Extracted from Stan Bray's book t'internet

George.

Again! what is it with MTM.. fault disappears for a short while, then re-appears again. I do not have any adblocs running on Edge; nor in Chrome. it's only on this site, every other forum / site I use doesn't have any probs... what gives?

George.

Hi Simon

We're all in a similar position in one form or another. There are 'one shot' lube systems on the market for most machines, Arc Euro sell one specifically for Myfords but could be used for other machines. I have a WM16 mill & I lubricate it it the awkward way; from underneath the table using a squirt oil can with a flexible spout & SAE 10-40 transmission oil, whilst moving the table along it's travel axis, works fine for me to date, it does get messy but I wipe up any excess afterwards. Horses for courses I s'pose

George.

Like others I have a couple of ways of setting angles; Stainless protractor with pivoting straight edge, Digi gauge, M & W protractor /rule, plastic protractor ( from school pack ). Using the digi gauge I always set the zero relative to the mill table. I have since made a set of angle gauges using trig' some previous write up a member had written up ( can't remember where   )     & checked relative to the Digi gauge, all within +/- 0.1* which is more than acceptable for my use. I would like a sine bar, but would I use it... probably once a year, if that . a couple pics of home made set ...

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 14/08/2020 11:53:32... flippin smiley!

Edited By mechman48 on 14/08/2020 11:55:05

Well we've all done it with one item or another !

George.

Hi Paul.

I have scanned digital copy of article in PDF format ( look ok ) , if you PM me with you email address I will forward you copies.

George.

Jim Nic

Another superb build; what psi is it running at ?

George.

Wouldn't be without a DRO on the mill now I have fitted mine, as for the lathe, I use a modified 6 " / 150mm Digi Vernier for saddle travel & modified tyre depth gauge for X slide measuring both work fine for my usage.

George.