Tony Martyr | 21/08/2014 20:00:28 |
![]() 226 forum posts 45 photos | I'm doing the final build of my triple expansion steam engine and need to seal the six joints between the valve chests and cylinders plus the HP and LP chest covers. This is not suitable for gasket paper (that would be a horrible job) and I'm not sure I could even get the ingredients for the red-lead goo of my apprenticeship - so what is the recommended modern product? I would hope I don't have to dismantle the engine but I would prefer something that allows that without resorting to violence and it has to handle steam at 180psi and some superheat. |
norman valentine | 21/08/2014 20:15:06 |
280 forum posts 40 photos | Loctite produce a liquid gasket that should do the job.
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Michael Gilligan | 21/08/2014 20:32:54 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Blue Hylomar is also good. MichaelG. |
Lathejack | 21/08/2014 23:12:05 |
339 forum posts 337 photos | Hello Tony. I would recommend Stags Wellseal Jointing Compound, I have used this for years on full size as well as model engines. Wellseal is a liquid sealant that is applied with a small brush or spatular and is ready for assembly any time after it has gone tacky, it never hardens or dries out, so dismantling is always possible and it can withstand up to 200 Deg C. Because it is a relatively thin liquid type sealant, rather than the thicker paste or silicone rubber type sealants, you don't get lumps of it squeezing out of the joint. It isn't a gap filler, so it won't seal badly warped or damaged mating faces, but it is perfect for metal to metal joints where no gaskets are specified and is excellent for the small delicate parts of a model engine. |
Simon0362 | 22/08/2014 07:57:33 |
279 forum posts 91 photos | Completely agree about Wellseal - we used to use it to seal copper headgaskets onto a 2.5L supercharged race engine - never any issues and could be cleaned off with cellulose thinners. Simon |
Ian S C | 22/08/2014 11:36:37 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Tony, I used Loctite liquid gasket on the steam chest and cylinder heads of a Stuart Turner S9, I don't know how it goes on steam, the engine has only run on air, but I can't see any problem. Ian S C |
Mark P. | 22/08/2014 11:47:21 |
![]() 634 forum posts 9 photos | Hi Tony, I would go for the Stag Wellseal every time. Mark P. |
Tony Martyr | 23/08/2014 17:26:44 |
![]() 226 forum posts 45 photos | Thanks to all Wellseal it is - but I do remember blue Hylomar from working on dynamometers at Froude Tony |
stan pearson 1 | 23/08/2014 22:25:49 |
![]() 135 forum posts 2 photos | Stag and Wellseal are two different products, Stag is red and messy and Wellseal is brown and cleaner to use, Hylomar is blue and was used by Rolls Royce and Gardener diesels on all there engines. Stan |
Lathejack | 24/08/2014 01:50:47 |
339 forum posts 337 photos | I have been using it for over twenty years, the brown liquid that is easy to apply, particularly in small quantities on small parts, and it's called Stag Wellseal on the packaging, whether a tin or a tube. Blue Hylomar is completely different, being a thicker paste or jell and is ok for larger joints and can fill and seal gaps to some extent on warped or damaged faces, but I think Stag Wellseal is more suitable for Tony's small engine. Incidently, Wellseal was also developed by Rolls Royce. Edited By Lathejack on 24/08/2014 02:06:14 |
Oompa Lumpa | 24/08/2014 03:55:05 |
888 forum posts 36 photos | |
JasonB | 24/08/2014 07:45:03 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | I think Stan is getting confused with Stag Jointing Paste which comes in type A & B (thin & Thick) and that is indeed red |
stan pearson 1 | 24/08/2014 22:21:34 |
![]() 135 forum posts 2 photos | When I worked for the local bus company in the late 50s and early 60s the Guy Arabs had 5LW Gardener engines and no gaskets were used the sump, timing cover and rear housing all sealed with wellseal in tubes. Stan |
chris stephens | 25/08/2014 17:19:54 |
1049 forum posts 1 photos | Hi Guys, Thinking of Hylomar, it can be thinned for application with a brush but for the life of me I can't recall what I was told the solvent is, can anyone help? chriStephens |
Michael Gilligan | 25/08/2014 17:39:08 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Chris, Here is the datasheet ... They suggest using Acetone for removal of dried Hylomar; so I suppose that must be a "solvent", but I'm not sure if it also works a a "thinner" [it may degrade the material]. MichaelG. |
chris stephens | 25/08/2014 19:18:58 |
1049 forum posts 1 photos | Thanks for that Michael, I'll do some experiments next time I buy a tube. chriStephens |
Michael Gilligan | 25/08/2014 20:49:55 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Chris, Having looked at the datasheet again, I suspect that the "solvent" is probably Dichloromethane ... which needs to be treated with some respect. MichaelG. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 25/08/2014 20:52:31 |
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