Adjustable Tool Rest for my 8" Bench Grinder

Today's efforts (well, 6 hours worth of work anyway). A quick 'n dirty adjustable tool rest for my new 8" bench grinder. Not quite finished but I've just had enough for one day! The plate it sits on will need to be screwed down onto the shelf, the grinder already has bolts fitted (but removed at the moment - that's why you can't see them in the photos). The top plate needs finishing, the cap-head bolts will be replaced by nice knurled hand knobs, and maybe some sort of guide system added for setting angles for lathe tools. It isn't meant to be very sophisticated

Very nice clean design Chris, I wouldnt mind copying that if it's OK?.

For your handles have you considered something like this:

probably have more locking pressure than a knurled knob.

Regards

Paul

Hi Chris,

the tool rest doesn't look quick and dirty to me. Seems to be adjustable in all needed ways? Nice work.

Paul, thew handles you suggests are exactly what I used on mine, they work very well.

Thor

Compared to Harold Hall's masterpiece (for e.g.,) it IS Quick 'n Dirty I was hoping for it to be a one-day project to complete but I had distractions. When it's finished I'll measure it up and also take some more photos of it disassembled, the locking screw system is, er, unique... but it works quite effectively. I do like the knobs (are they the spring-loaded ones with a splined head?) but the locking system doesn't need much pressure to work and a modest knob will be adequate. I'm also inclined to make use of my new ball-turning tool to make some pretty handles eventually, but not at the moment.

I would like to add a system whereby a simple lever at the front operates a lateral sliding jig which moves parallel to the edge of the grind wheel (a bit like a mini-surface grinder). So you hold your tool against a side support (at whatever angle desired) then operate your lever to move the workpiece side-to-side. Designing something like that is simple - but designing something that will still work when everything is covered in grinding dust is another story...

Chris

Oh yes we like that,ingenuity at its best.

Mark P.

Hi Chris,
I would suggest a toothed belt and suitable diameter pully to give the required linear movement for the angular movement of the pully. If the angular movement was small then you could use a plain pully with the belt clamped to it.

Les.

Chris,

Suggest rack and pinion for the transverse table movement, as used in Clarkson T&Cs, but smaller of course.

Phil

Brierlys used rack and pinion n earlier drill grinders but went to bowden cable on later models, probably on cost but they were smoother.

The system used in cheap transistor radios might work; a cord (you might want to use something stronger) round two pulleys, and moored to the one with the knob/crank on it. In a radio, the pointer is moored to the cord, so it traverses a linear dial between the pulleys as the knob is turned. On a grinding rest, moor the moving table to the cord or cable. The circumf. of the driving pulley has to be equal to the table traverse, though, which might make for a bulky contraption.

Andy

Why slide? You have already built the basis of a parallel motion.

Every time I use mine i think I should do away with the tall riser from the base and put in a solid wood block topped with a metal plate to raise the base mounting point up to at least the height of the wheel and further braced to the spindle nose or guard.

I was thinking 'slide' so when you are pushing (for e.g.,) a 60deg screwcutting lathe tool side-side you don't have to worry about maintaining the precise angle at the same time. Yes, I could make a seperate jig to hold such a tool which could use the rear edge of the rest as a datum and the whole lot could slide left to right - that might be easier perhaps - but I just wondered if a lever operated slide mechanism might be better...

The rest tilts forwards and back so front clearance angle can be adjusted, the rotation about the X-Y axis allows me to use the side of the disk (Yeah, I know...) to provide flat edges where essential when the radius you normally get by using the front edge of the disk is a problem. The height can be adjusted a little, and the whole thing moves on the baseplate L-R an inch or so. That accounts for all the pivot points.

Oh look, its now got big knobs These offer a nice grip and enough leverage, and are way better than needing an Allen wrench because I'll swear mine all have legs and tend to sneak off and hide in corners when you want them.

Nice work, Chris,

Neil

Thanks Neil.

Next up after this is complete - remember that heavy section bar that holds the grinding wheel on my Mill? Well, I had the idea it would come in very useful for adding another tool I don't have: a decent tapping/staking attachment. Again, the position offers the X-Y-Z movement already available via the mill bed, Plus a large/flat/orthogonal work surface, plus extra duty for the rotary table (mounted horizontal or vertical), and the added advantage (in my 'shop) of not taking up any extra floor/bench space. This won't be quick 'n dirty though and will require more thought.

Chris

Edited By Chris Heapy on 27/05/2013 18:38:11

Edited By Chris Heapy on 27/05/2013 18:38:44

Paul

Who supplies such things? I have managed to break two fitted to my milling machine.

JA

The mazac ones on my X2 failed, most places sell glass filled nylon ones (google indexable handle) and Arc sell aluminium alloy ones (more expensive than plastic ones).

Neil

These adjustable handles are readily available from Trend or Axminster

No affiliation just a satisfied customer

Neil, CoalBurner

Many thanks. I will be able to stop using an M6 bolt and spanner.

JA

For the locking handles do a google search for elesa (use to be clayton & elesa ) they have a miriad of choice

regards

**LINK**

WDS have a wide range of useful parts, no connection.

Mike

I milled a series of fine channels on the tool rest, that way the dust that comes off goes into the channels rather than getting trapped underneath the tool when you are sliding it side-side. Makes the thing operate more smoothly.

Then I thought... hey, what if I cut somewhat deeper channels over a plate and also on a second one (or a jig), then when placed together the top one would slide orthogonally L-R on it and could also be easily repositioned in relation to the grind wheel as required. Just a thought...

I also received the diamond dresser - which is why everything in there is covered in dust

,,,and Warco emailed me to say they are send a replacement Green Grit wheel because the one I received got a little bent in the post:

Edited By Chris Heapy on 28/05/2013 14:34:15

Edited By Chris Heapy on 28/05/2013 14:38:15