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9x20 Lathe Parts

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wotsit12/01/2012 21:18:57
188 forum posts
1 photos
I have a 9x20 lathe, and not so long ago, the cross-slide drive thread broke with no warning (no stiffness or binding beforehand). The break was relatively clean at a diameter change between the shaft and the thread.
 
Needing the lathe in a hurry, I made a jig and repaired the shaft by drilling to accept a 3mm hard pin axially (no space for anything much bigger), and brazing the joint, then refitted it after checking that the bearings and nut were aligned OK - all seemed fine, and no operating problems noted.
 
This week I decided to do a more permanent job. However, just before I started, the shaft broke again in the same place - it may be that something was still not aligned correctly, although it is difficult to see how. However, after thinking about it, I want to change the shaft for something a bit bigger. The broken shaft has an 8mm lefthand thread with an abrupt diameter change to allow for a 12mm collar locating against the bearing, but at the point where the thread ends and the collar starts the diameter is reduced to only 6mm (presumably run-in when the the thread cut), and this is where it broke.
 
So, my question is, has anyone seen a replacement kit for this shaft, before I have to re-invent the wheel and make my own? (and fit ball races at the same time). I did find one place on the Internet, but the site is defunct. I do not want to fit a simple replacement spare part - in my opinion it is too thin and fragile, and is too short - it would be possible to increase the travel of the slide by extending the shaft - I estimate an additional 2cms should be possible.
 
Regards to all.
Tel12/01/2012 21:29:35
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157 forum posts
28 photos
Have a look here
Springbok12/01/2012 21:53:02
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879 forum posts
34 photos
Looks like Tel has your answer. all my kit weights about over half a ton.
bob
mick H13/01/2012 07:29:35
795 forum posts
34 photos
Wotsit....I have done the conversion highlighted by Tel.....it works very well.
 
Springbok.....I have left you a pm
John Hinkley13/01/2012 08:50:28
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1545 forum posts
484 photos
Good to see you have such a quick and useful response. Now, silly question time:
Is it just convention that dictates that the screw thread is left-handed? What would be the consequences of using a right-hand thread, thus saving on the hassle of turning the lead screw left to right and buying a (probably) expensive left-hand tap?
I always have to think which way to turn the cross slide screw to move the slide in or out. It seems to me that a more instinctive set up would be to have a right-hand thread so that turning the cross slide handle clockwise draws the cross slide towards one? Or am I missing something?
John

Edited By John Hinkley on 13/01/2012 08:51:11

Tel13/01/2012 09:35:25
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157 forum posts
28 photos
It's more intuitive to wind the handle clockwise to move the slide in, other than that I don't think there is any reason not to use a r/h thread. BUT it is just as easy to cut the thread l/h anyway, so why not have it going the 'right' way. Same with the nut - odds on that will have to be screw cut as well, and it is no more difficult to make it l/h
wotsit13/01/2012 10:37:26
188 forum posts
1 photos
Thanks all for the info, but not quite there yet - I have previously seen Steve Bedairs site, and what he has done is exactly what I have in mind. However, I am one of these people who like to use the lathe to make other things, rather than continually modifying my tools, so my first approach to this is to try and find the bits 'ready made' - I simply cannot be bothered these days to mess about 're-inventing the wheel' - I also have a 7x10 lathe on which I did a similar mod years ago.
 
John - you make a good point about left and right hand threads - I think the main reason I prefer the original 'left-hand' thread, is that I am used to lathes with a left hand thread, so I am afraid I will unwittingly turn the handle the wrong way one day, after I have fitted a right hand thread , as Tel says.
 
Making a shaft and nut is not much of a problem for me, either left or right, but as I said above, I begrudge the time


 

Edited By wotsit on 13/01/2012 10:39:45

Tel13/01/2012 16:39:02
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157 forum posts
28 photos
I'm no expert on the 9x20's by any means, having only had mine for a few weeks, but it seems to be pretty well accepted that they do not come RTR out of the box. You probably need to steel yourself to the fact that you will need do do some work on it. I've certainly found that to be so.
Richard Parsons13/01/2012 17:21:56
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645 forum posts
33 photos
Turning the cross slide/the feed screw nut the wrong way is very common on watch maker’s lathes. It is a damned nuisance if you have been using a ‘Normal Lathe’ for the past few weeks
Dick
wotsit13/01/2012 20:20:58
188 forum posts
1 photos
Tel -
 
Despite my dislike of modding machines , I can strongly recommend fitting a 1 to 1.5 HP 3 phase motor driven by a VFD. I did this soon after getting my machine, because I soon got sick of changing belts and gears around. It also allows you to dump the slow speed drive, and the belt tensioner lever, and I have control down to 'inching' speeds, reversing and many other useful functions. Its not cheap, but I reckon its saved me hours of fiddling about.
 
I was able to retain the thin drive belt. I have seen all sort of complaints about this - mainly of the 'its too thin, so it can't be strong enough' variety - I haven't broken the original one yet, in 5 years of fairly hard use.
 
The other must have mod is to make a good solid mount for the compound slide - the original rocks like a cradle in the wind - Steve Bedairs site (and many others) has details - make it as solid as you can, and dump the original lantern toolholder - This guy has a good simple design -http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/lathe-modifications.html
 

I got mine from RC machines in Luxembourg, and they apparently strip and rebuild the machine, so it came out of the box pretty well ready to go. I have made a few adjustments (tailstock mainly) over the years, but I think it was excellent value for money. I hope you get good work from it.

 
This site has a good copy of a rebuild manual from Cletus Berkeley (it used to be in the Yahoo Group at one time) - it refers to the Grizzly version, but fits most makes.
 
 
Just re-read what I wrote - can't believe I said I don't mod my machines - I didn't realise I had done so much over the years. - and now I have to sort out the slide screw - ah well!
 
 

Edited By Katy Purvis on 01/06/2015 12:24:42

Tel13/01/2012 22:18:52
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157 forum posts
28 photos
Thanks for those - all handy stuff to have as I came to terms with this one and what it needs. It was bought, and will always be, a second machine in my shop, as the Myford has pride of place, but with a resident brother in law and an interested son in law I had to ease the pressure on the old gal somehow!
Russell Eberhardt04/02/2012 10:31:41
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2785 forum posts
87 photos
Posted by wotsit on 13/01/2012 20:20:58:

This site has a good copy of a rebuild manual from Cletus Berkeley (it used to be in the Yahoo Group at one time) - it refers to the Grizzly version, but fits most makes.

 

Does anyone have a copy of this file or a working link? The above link is broken.
 
Russell.
John Hinkley04/02/2012 11:22:19
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1545 forum posts
484 photos
Russell,
 
Just type the URL into the address area of your browser - but omit the "%" symbols. Alternatively go to www.akpilot.net, click on the links bit at the bottom of the page and follow the links to the page you want.
 
John

wotsit04/02/2012 13:27:50
188 forum posts
1 photos
Russel,
John Hinckley has the answer (not sure about the % symbols - I just copied the thing complete into the URL line of my browser (Firefox), and it worked OK). Alternatively open a new tab (if your browser supports it), copy the URL into the address line, and that also works (just done it).
 
If none of that works for you, PM me and I will return the pdf by e-mail.
 
This particular pdf used to exist in several places, but me of them seem to have disappeared now. You may also find it with a Google search - Its a useful maintenance aid for the lathe - I used it a lot just after I got my lathe, and I still refer to it now and again.
dcosta04/02/2012 13:41:07
496 forum posts
207 photos
Hello Russel, John and Wotsit.
 
The % can'0t be removed.

The copy may be done two different ways:
1 - Right click on the address and past in the address area on a new tab (Firefox or Internet Explorer or Google Chrome). The result of the operation is:
http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/www.akpilot.net/Rebuild%20Manual/Rebuild%20Manual.pdf

2 - Select with the left button and copy then paste on the address area of a tab (Firefox or Internet Explorer or Google Chrome). The content of the copy and paste is:
 
If You chose the first option You need too remove the part of the address in bold.
 
The second option works as is.
 
 
Best regards
Dias Costa


 
 
 
 

 

Stub Mandrel04/02/2012 18:38:46
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4318 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles
The %20 tells the browser to insert a space.
 
20 is the ASCII code for space, and tjhis allows spaces and non-printing characters to be inserted in URLs but to still be handled as a URL will otherwise cut short at the first space.
 
Neil
clivel04/02/2012 18:52:18
344 forum posts
17 photos
 
Or just click here: Rebuild Manual
 
 

Edited By clivel on 04/02/2012 18:55:30

Russell Eberhardt04/02/2012 21:10:40
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2785 forum posts
87 photos
Thanks for all the replies. I now have the manual.
 
Russell.
David Howard16/04/2012 03:16:48
3 forum posts
Posted by wotsit on 13/01/2012 20:20:58:
Despite my dislike of modding machines , I can strongly recommend fitting a 1 to 1.5 HP 3 phase motor driven by a VFD. I did this soon after getting my machine, because I soon got sick of changing belts and gears around. It also allows you to dump the slow speed drive, and the belt tensioner lever, and I have control down to 'inching' speeds, reversing and many other useful functions. Its not cheap, but I reckon its saved me hours of fiddling about.

Hi Wotsit,

I want to replace the stock motor on my 9 x 20, can you please let me know what motor and VFD you fitted to yours?

Specifically, I need to know the motor specifications and make, and the VFD make and model.

All I know about the stock motor is that it is a 550Watt, single phase, 240V, 1500RPM but I don't know what style of mounting foot it has (could be a B3 or a B3/B5?) and what diameter and length the shaft is.

I can't take the motor off at the moment to check those details as the lathe is in store pending installation in my new shed when it's finished. I'm hoping to get a direct physical replacement so I can just bolt it straight on without any messing around.

Did you have to modify the lathe motor pulley to fit the new motor? Did you retain the original gear train?

Many thanks,
Dave. face 1

Alfie Peacock27/06/2017 02:50:55
55 forum posts
1 photos

I have found this forum post from 2012 about the 9x20 lathe, I to have one of these lathes and would like to fit a VDF to mine. It is not straight forward as the original motor is not a standard fit. I to like David Howard at the time, would like to know if any members on the forum have fitted a VFD to a 9X20 lathe, and what VDF they used and motor.

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