Colin Heseltine | 01/10/2011 23:32:48 |
744 forum posts 375 photos | I am about to bore the arms on the Universal Pillar Tool.
I have just bought a secondhand Myford 9" faceplate for my ML7 so as to be able to complete this task. What amount of runout is considered acceptable for a faceplate. There is around .002" at the periphery and around.0008" 2 inches from the centre. I have cleaned up the threads on lathe mandrel and inside the faceplate and can see no damage on either. The faceplate appears to fit well on the register.
Thanks,
Colin |
NJH | 01/10/2011 23:57:37 |
![]() 2314 forum posts 139 photos | Hi Colin I suggest that take a light cut across the faceplate. Regards Norman |
Jens Eirik Skogstad | 02/10/2011 00:28:18 |
![]() 400 forum posts 22 photos | Norma and Colin, STOP!!!!
Check the spindle is true first with the dial gauge to be sure the spindle is ok before the faceplate is trued up with a light cut. |
JasonB | 02/10/2011 07:30:37 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Posted by Jens Eirik Skogstad on 02/10/2011 00:28:18:
Norma and Colin, STOP!!!!
Check the spindle is true first with the dial gauge to be sure the spindle is ok before the faceplate is trued up with a light cut. But if the spindle gets adjusted all Colins chuck back plates will beed to be reskimmed to suit the new spindle position.
Assuming the lathe is cutting OK already I'd skim the faceplate, more than likely it wa sskimmed to suit the previous owners lathe.
J |
Bogstandard | 02/10/2011 09:33:50 |
263 forum posts | Before any major job, I always skim my faceplate. Since the initial one, a skim of 0.002" (0.05mm) cleans it up very nicely. It takes my lathe, on very slow feed speed, over half an hour to complete the facing operation, but once done, it is spot on for any work I want to do on it. People seem to think that items like faceplates and soft jaws should last forever, but to me, to get the required accuracy, they are eventual disposable items, with a life of maybe 10 to 15 years, so get trued up and recut every once in a while. John |
Tony Pratt 1 | 02/10/2011 09:36:09 |
2319 forum posts 13 photos | If all is clean and burr free I would also skim the faceplate, a .003" cut will do the job and you will get the best possible zero run out condition.
Tony |
KWIL | 02/10/2011 09:50:27 |
3681 forum posts 70 photos | When you have skimmed the faceplate, check to ensure that is is either dead flat across the diameter (unlikely) or very slightly concave. There are limits to be observed. |
Richard Parsons | 02/10/2011 13:29:43 |
![]() 645 forum posts 33 photos | Colin If you do decide to skim your face plate do it slowly with a very sharp tool and the finest feed possible. Take one pass just to break 90% of the surface then leave the thing for at least 24 hours for the internal strains to come out before finishing. Even old face plates can still have stresses inside them. Rdgs Dick |
Steve Withnell | 02/10/2011 14:01:22 |
![]() 858 forum posts 215 photos | Is 24 hours enough? I'd have thought it would take much longer. |
Colin Heseltine | 02/10/2011 14:18:55 |
744 forum posts 375 photos | Thanks for all the advice. As I dont have a powered cross slide its going to be a very slow job winding the handle. What is best tool to use for this job. |
David Clark 1 | 02/10/2011 14:46:42 |
![]() 3357 forum posts 112 photos 10 articles | Hi There
Use a carbide tool, run at top back gear speed and wind from groove to groove, take a rest then wind to next groove.
Does not take that long.
regards David
|
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