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Member postings for Bogstandard

Here is a list of all the postings Bogstandard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Where's my thread
22/11/2011 12:00:15
Terry,
 
You will find a lot of your problem with getting someone to make something for you is the time involved, plus inventors seem to think we work for peanuts just because we do it from home. We have overheads as well, I have spent nearly 10K setting my shop up over the last four years, and my shop has to make it's own living, it can't come out of the family budget. Commercial shops can easily charge you £60 an hour for making one offs, yet some people baulked at what I wanted to charge them, only a fraction of the commercial costs..
 
I have only just finished doing a project for a chap, and even though it should only have taken a couple of days, because of his wanting to do most things himself, and not being experienced enough to draw and measure correctly or accurately enough, it ran to over 5 months, with me having to do it all in the end. The frustration is immense, waiting weeks for a postal reply, with your machines set up to do just his one job. In fact, I made him the finished prototypes, and have just posted everything to him and he will have to find someone else to make the finished items. I just couldn't go through all that hassle again.
 
Inventors and people who do the work for them seem to think that most jobs are usually a quick affair, but because of modifications and development during the making, things can take much longer, and so more expensive. Plus people who have workshops like we do, don't want all that time wasted while the R&D is ongoing, they have their own things to do.
 
After about a dozen projects for inventors over the last three years or so, I have come to the conclusion that it is too wasteful of my now precious time, so since the last fiasco, I have given up doing it.
 
 
John
 
 
 
Thread: How do I
19/11/2011 15:02:34
Tailstock V holder
Thread: New Blocks on the Block
18/11/2011 19:15:13
What in the world are you lot arguing over, surely not what type of thread was used and the size of the heads?
 
Talk about a load of prats. Didn't you read my article, well you must have done if you brought up the point.
 
The stainless cap screws have about the largest head that is generally available on a screw this size, and I raised the point that although close, there were no issues of them hitting each other or overhanging the edges. IMHO, John had done his measuring spot on.
 
I will just say one thing, I raised this post to maybe help people, nothing more.
But there are just too many know it alls who just want to cause trouble and strife just for the sake of putting words on a page. Have you nothing better to do?
If I raised a post stating that most text in these posts is black, some prat would pipe up and argue over it.
 
From now on, you will have to search the web yourselves to find out about things like these blocks. It just isn't worth my trouble if this is what happens every time.
 
Bogs
18/11/2011 09:01:56
Terry,
 
John S and myself have known each other for a few years, purely on a machining level, NEVER financially. More towards my other side of things, helping other people not as fortunate as ourselves to get into the workshop.
 
If people have a bit of machinery, tooling, raw materials or equipment that they no longer require, they drop it off at my house for storage, then I try to find it a good home amongst disabled model engineers, or people who don't have the money available to buy it themselves. The only cost to them is that they have to pick it up from my house. A bit like a charity shop for model engineers.

 
John S has helped me greatly, more so with the help of his greater experience.

 
I only have to hear a cry from one of the people I am in contact with, and if I cannot help them, a quick email to John and he usually has the answer to the problem. John S is a mine of information and has most probably forgotten more than I will ever know, but he gives me information, if possible, for the asking. A bit like myself, rough and ready on the outside, but peel back a few layers, you end up with a fluffy bunny.
Sorry John, for spoiling your 'hard man' reputation.
 
BTW, I have sitting in storage at this time, a small pair of pneumatic tyred wheelchair wheels (about 10" overall diameter and very good quality) and a scroll saw, the same as this one, donated from my own workshop. It seems that everyone I know already has one, or no room in their tiny shop for it.
 
 
If you know some unfortunate who lives within easy striking distance of myself (Crewe, Cheshire) who could put either of these items to a good use, then they are FOC.
If you are not needy, then a reasonable donation to Christies Cancer unit in Manchester will be required for either of them.
 
Sorry for the blatant advertising.
 
 
John
Thread: Nu Tool
18/11/2011 03:57:17
Brian,
 
Machine DRO sell a nice range of both glass and magnetic strip sets. A little pricey though. Expect maybe the wrong side of £400 to get a good set up, a little cheaper for the budget display units with fewer features.
 
 
I am not recommending anything, but I have used 3 Sino display units with seven glass scales for just over 3 years now, and I have never had a single glitch on any of it.
 
Hope this helps
 
 
John
 
 
Thread: Replacing lost threads
17/11/2011 13:19:44
David,
 
I used to do this a lot when people were making from bronze and brass castings and drilled holes in the wrong place, and I had to reclaim the castings.
 
Don't try to make your own bronze inserts, the threads on the outside and inside are liable to crack into each other due to built up internal stresses..
 
I always drilled out the hole, in your case to about 5/32" or 3/16" if you have room, and silver solder a slug of bronze into the hole. Dress it off flush and then drill and tap for your original size and position.
 
If you do it correctly (and it is easy) you will have a joint almost as strong as the original and will never be noticed.
 
This first post on the topic shows what I am on about, you should if possible drill all the old thread out.
 
 
 
John
Thread: New Blocks on the Block
17/11/2011 12:41:02
I personally don't give a monkey's nuts, if something is worth bringing to the attention of others, then so be it. I'm not paid to do it, but a lot of people benefit from it, which is what forums should be about.
 
On the forums, I reckon over the last six months I have brought to the attention of other members about a dozen items, maybe more, no matter where the source be from, as long as it is normally freely available and from the UK, unless it is something really special.
 
A few examples from the top of my head, a 9" slotted Myford faceplate from RDG to fit the Myford (this fits on the adaptor of my 6" RT and effectively makes it into a 9" one), a compact electric hoist from Lidl, for lifting heavy bits in the shop, digiverns from the same source, Richon Tools for cheap cutters etc etc, and now these very handy little blocks.

 
I have been thanked many times for bringing such items to peoples attention, and they have gone out and purchased them.
 
I don't know how many of these blocks Arc Euro has in stock (and they are not available from anywhere else) but I am sure that from the reaction from people I have let know, they just might be getting short of stock sometime soon. In fact, I have just bought a second set of each yesterday, as I personally have found a good use for them in my own shop.
 
 
John
16/11/2011 15:12:46
I wished I knew who worked for whom around here. These days I am never sure if I am reading a good tip on the forum or an advert!


I think most people on here that know me will find that I work for no one.


I am always bringing to the attention of members of a few sites things that are new to our way of working or limited offers where the members could benefit from making a quick decision.


I have already written, hopefully an unbiased report on these items here:
 
 
 
John
16/11/2011 10:49:12
Goodness me, talk about death in an overcoat.
 
Condemned before they even get looked at. It's a miracle anything ever makes it into your shop.
 
On the other hand, maybe it doesn't, because if these are too technical, a nut and bolt, with a technical washer certainly will be.
 
Bogs

Edited By Bogstandard on 16/11/2011 10:49:32

Edited By Bogstandard on 16/11/2011 10:50:52

16/11/2011 08:16:28
I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but Arc Euro has a new piece of kit on the market.
 
How many of you have 321 blocks and find them very limited in use because they are not made correctly plus the fact that they are not ideal for use in a normal milling vice.
 
Well John Stevenson has come up with a design that solves most of the problems, the first is that they CAN bolt together to make those small angle plates or T-tops. The second and most important thing for me is that they have been thought through and made to sizes that can be easily used in a vice, a thing that the 321 blocks couldn't really do.
 
 
I can't wait to get delivery of mine, so that I can put them through their paces.
 
John
Thread: Trouble with my Suart engine
11/11/2011 18:49:21
It sounds very much like your cast iron pistons/rings/bores are starting to corrode (rust) and sticking together.
 
It might be you have water in your airline (most of us do) so make sure you water separator is working and the tank on your compressor is emptied frequently. The 'brown watery substance' is most probably exactly what you have said.
 
Rather than a thin oil, maybe a car multigrade one will work a little better, they have built in corrosion inhibitors.
 
As long as you don't have any silicone seals or sealant on the engine, then you could try a squirt of WD40 into the intake, followed by a turn over by hand after running. That might help dissipate the water and stop the parts rusting together.
 
John
 
Must have posted at the same time as Jason

Edited By Bogstandard on 11/11/2011 18:50:15

Thread: Reamer suppler
09/11/2011 22:27:23
The last type that I have used are similar to a standard taper shank reamer but had slots cut along the straight flutes and a recessed screw in the end with a tapered head, tightening the screw increased the size of the reamer over a very limited range. These were usually used when reaming difficult materials that tended to close in on the reamer and produce tight holes.


Actually, they are not adjustable reamers at all. If you tighten in the screw on the end, you end up with a reamer that is tapered from large at the front to small at the back, no use to man nor beast.
The screw is to allow the reamer to be expanded slightly when blunt, to allow it to be reground back to nominal size.
You should be able to regrind a few times before it is no longer large enough when expanded to be brought back down to size.


John
Thread: How NOT to tap a hole
09/11/2011 01:40:52
For none critical work, I use exactly the same setup as he does, a 3/8" butterfly wrench with those same wrench heads on the end, bought from Little Machine Shop.
 
I last used it at arms length to repair the outside canopies on my house. It would had taken me ages to do it by hand, my butterfly wrench setup retapped a stripped out 8mm to 10mm tapped in about 5 seconds.
 
Don't kick it until you've tried it.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Reamer suppler
07/11/2011 22:39:01
I purchased a set of HSS 1/8" to 1/2" by 1/64ths #1 morse taper reamers (so machine reamers) from Tracy tools.
 
Even though they were not manufacturer matched, they were all made by reputable companies and have stood up well to being used a lot. Very good value for money. I think they also do the same sort of sets in metric.
 
Recently I bought a set of imperial taper reamers from them from 1/16" to 3/8", 10 HSS reamers for £40 (incl VAT & postage). Again, spot on quality. Less than £4 each, I would suggest you look how much RDG or Chronos sell their taper reamers for.
 
 
 
John
Thread: Ground angle tool checking device
03/11/2011 10:31:41
Steve,
 
For what we do in our shops, then 'doing it by eye' is usually 99.99% good enough.
 
Not everyone has the luxury of a computer in their workshop so that they can use microscopes and things like that, so we usually rely on the old and trusted method of doing things.
 
A thread setting gauge will easily tell you if the angle is anywhere near close, and if it fits snuggly into that, then it will be good enough. BTW, when you check your angles, you will find that 55 degs is nowhere near 60 degs and vice versa, it is very easy to see with your setting gauge.
 
What you MUST ensure is that you use the setting gauge to get the tool tip angles perfectly equal either side of square to the job, otherwise all sorts of weird shaped threads will appear. That is where most single point threading problems occur. In fact when I worked for a living I have seen some metric cut threads that looked like buttress threads, purely because the operator hadn't set up his tooling correctly.
 
It is all down to getting the basics right.
 
 
John
Thread: Vol 172
26/10/2011 14:09:47
Maybe this can be of assistance, a build from plans supplied in ‘The Best of Model Engineer’ an Autumn 2009 special.
 
 
 
John
Thread: Drilling in the mill
25/10/2011 20:49:46
Do make sure you get a "mill drill", pure milling machines have no quill and so are unsuitable for drilling.
 
Wrong. Most vertical mills have a means of drilling, if it isn't a quill feed, it will be some method of moving the head up/down easily. Hence the big handles on the side of most mills.
 
With regards to gib locks. You know you have gibs on most machine sliding axis, well a gib lock is usually a method of a handle or screw that locks or tightens up your gibs so that the axis is prevented from moving. So once you have found position for drilling your hole, tighten up the gib locks in both X & Y axis on the mill, and the part cannot move out of position as you drill.
 
Just a cautionary note.
 
About three years ago, I updated my workshop with a new lathe and mill, and got rid of my small bench drill as I thought I could do all my drilling on the mill.
 
After a couple of months, I got really fed up of using the mill for drilling, as sometimes you have work set up in the vice, or it is just too cumbersome to set everything up just to drill a hole square through something. A couple of months ago, I bought myself a new bench drill to replace the one I gave away when I had my great idea of using my mill to drill the odd hole.
 
If you have the space and can afford it, buy both.
 
 
John
 
 


Edited By Bogstandard on 25/10/2011 20:51:13

Thread: Slitting saw runout
23/10/2011 21:51:16
Tony,
 
I use 'English' slitting saws and I can truly say, they are the same from new.
 
The only ones that don't do it are the small solid carbide ones I have, but I think they may be ground by a different method as they are a lot more expensive.
 
You might find that ones with fewer teeth have less runout, purely because the grinding wheel doesn't wear out of true as much as when it is grinding a larger number of teeth. I suspect they only true the wheel up after doing the whole circumference of teeth, that is what I do when resharpening mine, so the first ones ground will be shorter than the last ones because the wheel has lost a bit of it's 'meat' by the time it gets to the last tooth.
 
It doesn't really matter anyway, it you need to slit to a certain depth, just take your start point from when the first tooth starts to touch.
 
John
Thread: pitt bull carriers,
22/10/2011 20:57:03
Knockout in round 2.
 
I now have my TV set up and working perfectly.
 
The first one had slight damage to the box, the second was perfect, but a different carrier.
 
What gets me is that items like this can travel half way around the world perfectly OK, it is just those last few miles that problems occur.
 
Charlie, no pacemaker now required, I can now get back to watching my film collection late at night.
 
Hats off to Amazon, for not only being the cheapest, but for their great customer support as well.
 
It's such a shame they were let down by their first lot of carriers.
 
 
John
21/10/2011 12:55:56
Well yesterday the TV was delivered, and found out that on his electronic gizmo, you can have it signed for as unchecked, so I did that.
 
Unfortunately that didn't help much, as when unpacked, hung on the wall and tried out, it was found that the remote was no good, maybe because it was bouncing about loose in the bottom of the box where it had fallen out of the packaging. It just kept firing spurious signals at the TV.
 
So onto Amazon on their chat line, new one being delivered tomorrow (Saturday) and the old one being picked up on Monday.
 
Ring the bell for round 2.
 
 
John
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