Douglas Johnston | 20/02/2011 15:20:44 |
![]() 814 forum posts 36 photos | I am in the process of building a PCB cutter using a pair of HSS planer blades picked up on ebay. In order to mount the blades on a carrier it would be beneficial to drill the blades but do not know if this is possible.
The blades are about 300mm long and 20mm wide with a thickness of 3mm. Is it possible to cut a 4mm hole through HSS of this thickness with any sort of carbide or diamond cutter.
Doug |
Weldsol | 20/02/2011 16:03:05 |
74 forum posts | You could consider spark erosion I'm sure there must be a company local to you that would do it.
Paul |
Keith Long | 20/02/2011 16:16:23 |
883 forum posts 11 photos | Hi Have you thought about clamping the blade to the carrier with a back ledge for the blade to locate against - pretty sure the guillotines that we had where I worked used this principle for both metal cutting and pcbs. Keith |
Douglas Johnston | 20/02/2011 18:36:22 |
![]() 814 forum posts 36 photos | Hi Keith
What you say is pretty much what I had in mind, but the problem is how to hold the blade in position without any clamping device protruding from the surface which would interfere with the fixed blade. Perhaps superglue might do the job if I can't drill the HSS.
Doug |
mgj | 20/02/2011 19:07:12 |
1017 forum posts 14 photos | You could use superglue, or one of the rubber loaded epoxies by 3M, but one has to ask why use HSS at all. The only advantage of HSS is that it retains its temper/mechanical properties at high temperatures, which a guillotine chompingg PCB is not likely to impose (is it continuous production?) If temperature is not a problem in use, I'd use gauge plate. Drill and thread and then harden as normal. It'll actually end up harder than HSS, so it could well score both ways. Edited By mgj on 20/02/2011 19:07:51 |
chris stephens | 20/02/2011 19:41:40 |
1049 forum posts 1 photos | Hi Douglas,
What MGJ says, but if you do want to drill HSS a solid Carbide drill should do it. There is a warning about carbide drills, they are very brittle and best not used free hand. Oh and they are not cheap, either.
chriStephens
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Hugh Gilhespie | 20/02/2011 20:45:54 |
130 forum posts 45 photos | Hi Doug, You can drill almost anything using abrasives. I used to be involved in making a telescope mirror and the abrasive technique was the best method for drilling thick (2 inch) glass blanks. You use silicon carbide abrasive, say about 240 grit size and a bit of copper or brass tube as the 'drill'. The tube size is chosen to give whatever hole size you want. Just cut a piece of tube a couple of inches long with a fairly square end. Stick the tube in a chuck, set for about 100 - 200 rpm. Now make a little plasticine or whatever circular dam on the piece to be drilled and fill it with the SiC and water - sort of a thin slurry. Start your drilling machine and very gently lower the quill onto the work (actually the very gently stuff is for glass, probably doesn't matter too much with HSS). Keep a firm pressure on and in a pleasingly short time you will have a through hole. If it takes a long time, you may need to change the brass/copper tube - it wears away fairly quickly. The hole is slightly larger than the OD of the drilling tube but not by much.
Have a go!
Regards, Hugh |
David Colwill | 20/02/2011 23:32:29 |
782 forum posts 40 photos | When I did this I hung a weight off the drill handle and pottered around while it happened. Edited By David Colwill on 20/02/2011 23:32:52 |
Ian S C | 21/02/2011 09:02:48 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Hugh, you beat me too it, I made a mandrel with a spring on it that presses the bit of tube against the work so that you just lower the drill press so that the tube presses lightly on the work, with some grinding paste under the tool, switch on and go and do some thing else. I tried it out on the hardened face of an automotive valve lifter, it took quite some time, but went through ok, and left me a small hardened cylinder. It drills glass even easier. I think I used bottom speed on my mill which is 90rpm. Ian S C |
Douglas Johnston | 21/02/2011 14:30:40 |
![]() 814 forum posts 36 photos | A lot of good ideas for me to think about. The reason I went with the HSS blades was mainly the low cost (ebay is a wonderful place) and the convenience of having the cutting edge ready formed. I did previously think of using gauge plate but was put off by the thought of hardening it without distortion.
The more I think about it I feel I might get away with superglue since the main cutting force will be provided by the stepped carrier. Perhaps loctite 603 might be used here instead of superglue so I must do some experimenting.
Doug |
Chris Trice | 21/02/2011 18:58:36 |
![]() 1376 forum posts 10 photos | Don't glue them. The bond with superglue or epoxy starts to break down at barely above the temperature of boiling water. In fact you can use a soldering iron to heat a metal component that's been glued specifically to break the adhesive bond. |
Paul Jarvis 2 | 11/11/2016 19:16:53 |
13 forum posts | Hi Doug You could use a 4mm screw drill, these carbide drills are employed to remove HSS taps etc and are available in 4 mm from companies like Cromwell tools ( usual disclaimers) they are not cheap however.
Don't bond the blades as they will definitely come off if the blade gets hot. I would also advise against clamping them without some retaining method as I have experience of them coming off at high speed when core carving with a vertical spindle with major consequences. Paul
Paul |
Neil Wyatt | 11/11/2016 19:25:37 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Why should the blade get hot cutting PCBs? I'm assuming the project is just to make a small but robust guillotine? Neil |
Roy M | 11/11/2016 19:38:22 |
104 forum posts 7 photos | Doug, if you can look at my previous posts, you will see a simple way of drilling through HSS. If you can't find the post, which included a sketch, then I could re submit it if you message me. I may even have a drill. Roy M.
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Speedy Builder5 | 11/11/2016 19:43:48 |
2878 forum posts 248 photos | Its a bit late, but my Axminster 330mm blades have holes in them already. |
MW | 11/11/2016 20:15:52 |
![]() 2052 forum posts 56 photos | Why not just use a dremel type disposable grinding bit? Would've been my first port of call. Michael W Edited By Michael Walters on 11/11/2016 20:17:05 |
Roy M | 11/11/2016 21:10:36 |
104 forum posts 7 photos | Paul J. If you look at my previous post, you will see that the design of the drill for HSS is based upon the screw drill. Carbide blanks are cheap on fleabay. Roy M |
Neil Lickfold | 11/11/2016 21:47:41 |
1025 forum posts 204 photos | Roy , I make my carbide drills similar to the sandvik ones in the link here, https://www.amazon.com/Sandvik-Coromant-Carbide-Uncoated-Straight/dp/B005FXF76Y I use air to keep flushing out the micro chips and on the small ones under 4 mm use about 800 to 1200 rpm and hand feed normally in as ridgid as I can drill or mill. I cheat and increment the feed stop each cut about .1mm at a time. Neil
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Roy M | 11/11/2016 22:05:52 |
104 forum posts 7 photos | Neil, mine are just cheap imitations! I think the cutting geometry is very similar, but I make them off-hand.Roy M. |
Ady1 | 12/11/2016 00:02:56 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | Why not just use a dremel type disposable grinding bit? Would've been my first port of call. I've chopped up hss with a dremel type tool as well. Mounted everything securely on the lathe for stability, started it running and used the cross slide/saddle to slowly chop through with a dremel, it was surprisingly easy and you didn't need much pressure, unlike with a carbide drill GL |
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