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Eagle Surface Grinder

Wet Grinding

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Gray6207/10/2010 17:51:11
1058 forum posts
16 photos
   I have a Mk2/3 eagle surface grinder which whilst adequate for most purposes could be improved with wet grinding facilities. I am aware that these machines were supplied with a wet grinding facility and would appreciate any information, pictures etc of such a machine. I don't think the conversion would be a difficult one but any information on how this was implemented by the manufacturer will be4 very much appreciated.
Bogstandard08/10/2010 01:05:57
263 forum posts
Have you considered a spraymist system?
 
I have made one for my lathe, and am just about to do them for my mill and Herbert surface grinder. A lot less mess than flood coolant. The only drawback is you have to have piped air.
 
 
 
Bogs
David Colwill08/10/2010 09:39:16
782 forum posts
40 photos
I made a spraymist for my triac CNC mill and had to stop using it because I hadn't set up proper extraction for the resultant vapour. I ended up with a workshop full of choking 'fumes' which were painful to breathe and made me feel quite ill. The actual unit though was very effective. I would advise that anyone planning on using this system checks out the relevant health and safety issues for these things. Used correctly I'm sure they are fantastic And I do hope to resurrect mine when I can put a suitable enclosure around the machine.
Dave.
Pete Jones08/10/2010 10:28:30
avatar
4 forum posts
5 photos
There's a small photo of an Eagle 5W (the wet version) on the inside back cover of ME 4360 (11th Sept 2009) in the Home and Workshop Machinery ad. Although small it does seem to show the main differences. I would have thought the biggest issue would be coolant filtration prior to recirculation.
Pete.
Bogstandard08/10/2010 11:54:07
263 forum posts
Dave,
 
That is all to do with badly adjusted nozzles, not the requirement of an extraction unit.
 
I get no fogging at all from mine, and it uses very little air or cutting fluid. In fact, I use it as a total loss system, just a quick wipe away when I have finished.
 
I can part off a 3" lump, and the bit that falls off is cool to the touch, not smoking as normally happens.
 
It is the air that does the cooling and swarf blow away, and you only require tiny amounts of cutting fluid.
 
Bogs
Gray6208/10/2010 20:29:36
1058 forum posts
16 photos
Hi Bogs,
I've read that post a few times recently, I've been thinking about something along those lines, do you have any dimensioned drawings
Your posts are very informative, I've just finished making the tramming tool you documented in another post, 
 
many thanks
 
CB
Bogstandard08/10/2010 21:50:06
263 forum posts
CB,
 
Sorry, that project got held up when my body decided to rebel against me, so I only ever got to make the first one, which was a prototype anyway. So no drawings were done, as it was made on the fly.
 
But it proved the system, and once I get back into the swing of things again, I will make a simpler version, by using the figures I obtained from this one. It doesn't need to be anywhere near as complicated as the one I made.
 
Bogs
Hugh Gilhespie09/10/2010 15:26:49
130 forum posts
45 photos
Bogs
 
I would also be very interested in the updated spraymister whenever you get a round tuit. No rush, I have yet to sort out the air system in my workshop, but I am planning on having air outlets at the lathe, mill and shaper specifically for spray mist cooling. I like having coolant and think it does make a difference, even with carbide tooling.
 
PS - I also made your tramming tool - it's so good that now I even look forward to having to re-tram the mill!
 
Thanks, Hugh
KWIL09/10/2010 16:48:17
3681 forum posts
70 photos
The nozzle arrangement is just like my paint spray gun, The size of the annulus around the fluid feed seems to be the most critical dimension in that application.
Bogstandard09/10/2010 21:28:43
263 forum posts
Glad you enjoyed making your tramming tool Hugh. As long as you did the final true up in the lathe as I did, you should find it is spot on every time. It caused such a stir when I first showed it with all the die hards with long rubber necks pulling it to pieces. But a lot of people have made them now, and they think they really help them in setting their machines up.
 
Actually Kwil, the waymine works is the outer nozzle produces the increased flow by being a rough venturi shape, and where the tip of the inner nozzle sits in relation to the outer nozzle end depends how much liquid is sucked thru it.
I set it up until I can just see a minute amount of cutting fluid deposited when it is directed onto my thumbnail.
 
Bogs
 
dcosta09/10/2010 22:20:06
496 forum posts
207 photos
Hello Bogs.
 
Will You be so kind as to let me know how I can find Your post about the tramming device?
 
 
Thanks in advance
Dias Costa

Gray6209/10/2010 23:43:13
1058 forum posts
16 photos
Hi Dias,
this is the thread I followed, I thinkit is the only one Bogs has done on the construction
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=822.0


Remember before you do the final truing up on the lathe, to take a light skim off your faceplate, I was surprised how much runout I had in mine  

regards


CB
John Olsen10/10/2010 01:20:22
1294 forum posts
108 photos
1 articles
Speaking of air around machines....I know a lot of people are against cleaning down a machine with air, but it is really handy for getting the packed in swarf out of those tiny torx screws on the inserts, also for any ordinary allen screws that you can't get the key into.
 
regards
 
John
David Clark 110/10/2010 09:30:38
avatar
3357 forum posts
112 photos
10 articles
Hi There
A spray can of WD40 is ideal for removing swarf from torx screws.
regards David 
dcosta10/10/2010 17:36:16
496 forum posts
207 photos
Hello "CoalBurnner".
 
 
Thank You for Your help.
 
You said:
Remember before you do the final truing up on the lathe, to take a light skim off your faceplate, I was surprised how much runout I had in mine  

I say:
Yes, I will.
However in my lathe (an original Emco Compact 8) I can use the original collets and its chuck.
Also the spindle nose in the Compact 8 is not machineable. It is tapered (similar to ISO 55021).
 
Best regards
Dias Costa

CB
 
 
 
 
 
t is not a matter of language, I can translate what I need.  I will close this thread as I feel I was goaded into a response..
Bogstandard10/10/2010 18:47:52
263 forum posts
CB
You cannot use your collets to true it up, they might not be accurate enough. You have to do it using a faceplate as shown.
 
A faceplate is normally supplied as an attachment, just like a chuck, and is used for clamping parts to that would normally prove too difficult to hold using normal methods.
 
It is that final truing up that makes the tool accurate and useable.
 
If you don't have a faceplate, then you can't attempt to make an accurate version of it.
 
 
Bogs
dcosta11/10/2010 00:37:19
496 forum posts
207 photos
Hello Bogs.
 
Thank You for Your attention to my message and help.
 Now I understand better Your recommendation on using the face plate.
When I bought my lathe Emco Compact 8 (30 or so years ago) I postponed the buying of the face plate and when I wanted I couldn't find it in the market.
So, last year I bought an unmachined back plate with the purpose to machine it to make a face plate and postponed the project. Now it's time to go ahead with it.
And then I hope I'll start with the tramming tool.
 

Best regards
Dias Costa
 
 
P.S.: My message had some garbage after my signature I left there by accident.
I'm sorry.
 
 
 
 

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