80mm milling vice

More problems

I purchased a SX2P mill from Arc Eurotrade along with a 80 mm radial milling vice which was recommended for this machine . However when it came to fitting the vice the bolts supplied are 10 mm while the slots on the table are 8 mm.

Also the guide blocks on the vice are 14 mm so cannot be used in the 8 mm slots on the table.

All seems very strange when they are supposed to be compatible .

Has anyone else come across this problem and managed to find a solution.

Mike

Washers? Even spigotted washers?

Mill the guide blocks?

I expect an 80mm vise was a good recomendation for size. I expect there are/were different styles of 80mm vises available - all at different price points?

Edited By not done it yet on 03/08/2021 17:33:26

Hi have you got the clamp set for your mill it should be 8mm with 6mm thread. Just need to use washers to hold the vice down. The rotary base is very seldom used and it uses up job height from bed to spindle and especialy if you are drilling I would just remove that part and keep it safe. I also set the vice up with a dial indicator along the bed with a parallel in the vice jaws. If you have any problems call ARC and Ketan will help.

David

Edited By David George 1 on 03/08/2021 17:45:33

80mm size is suitable for that mill as well as several others such as the SX2.7 but not made specificallyfor it The 2.7 for example happens to take the M10 fixings without problem, though still needs the spigot blocks machining down which will be a nice first job to get you used to using the mill as will making some tee nuts or bolts.

See my second post in this thread about how to machine the spigot blocks

Thanks for the advise folks, I have now worked out what needs to be done. I just did not want to butcher all the parts then find out there was another way of fitting it. Yes I have got the fixing kit with 8 mm bolts but I am going to try and grind down the 10 mm bolts at the base as they will be a better fit on the vice base. Will also use a couple of tee nuts ground down for the location slides.

Wish me luck Mike.

Grind?

Why not turn them down and Die them in the lathe? That way you can be reasonably sure that the thread is round rather than an irregular shape.

You are looking to clamp the vice to the table, so should take any chance of it moving.

If it moves it will damage the work and the cutter. If it came off, you might the recipent!

When you are able to clamp the vice to the table, you will need to align it.

You can either clock it into alignment, or do it the quick and easy way, by making and using an alignment fixture.

Mine will align a vice to within 0.001" (0.025 mm ) in about the same time that it takes to set up the clock and start checking.

Howard

Howard, Michael is intending to just reduce the base of the M10 thread so it will slide within the 8mm wide slots. This saves having to make new washers and have the thread a sloppy fit in the vice slots

Could probably mill the two flats now that you have the machine.

Blocks in the base of mine are quicker still than a goalpost or clocking.

Edited By JasonB on 03/08/2021 20:32:54

I made two press fit collars for the holes in my vice that are a snug fit in the T slots. It’s within a thou or two just fitting the vice on the table but I normally clock it as well as it’s pretty quick. The holes through the collars still allow me to use M10 studs.

When Mike follows the suggestions & machines these items to hold his vice , will he need to hold them in a vice?

Because "there is a hole in my bucket dear Lisa, a hole"

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 04/08/2021 08:19:46

My suggestion of turning down the studs was based on the studs being removable from the T nut, so that the stud would be stepped to pass through the T slot, whilst retaining, for convenience, and minimum work, the original larger size nuts.

If the stud is integral with the T nut, which unless made from a forging would not be an economic means, the relief to allow entrance into the slot could be filed into the stud.

Otherwise, as Sam said it could be a case of "pulling oneself up by your bootstraps", "Dear Liza" and so on!

Ideally, if an angle plate is available, the vice could be machined, it not already, for keys, or even dowels, to ensure alignment.

My vice is not really suitable for this, hence the use of the "goalpost"

Howard.

Edited By Howard Lewis on 04/08/2021 08:35:37

Maybe read the posts and see that he is dealing with bolts and has a clamping set

" grind down the 10 mm bolts at the base"

And this suggests he has a clamping set with tee nuts etc that could be use dto clamp the vice to the table while the bolts are altered.

Hi have you got the clamp set for your mill "Yes I have got the fixing kit "

Mine were made on the Lathe. When I needed to make some T nuts though I found some ordinary ones to temporarily hold the vice.

I used a pair of 8mm coach bolts where I milled a pair of flats on the head until it was a good fit in the bottom of the T slot, the square at the bottom of the thread needed no mod as its a good fit in the top of the slot.

Turned up a pair of heavy washers and it works fine, never had the vice move.

Not sure if it helps beginners to know that machine tools aren't standardised rigorously in the sense that accessories will always just fit. Some machines will only take add-ons specifically made for them. Most will take a wider choice, but don't be surprised to find differences between US English measure and British Imperial gear, machines made in different metric countries, and different models made by the same manufacturer. They can usually be fettled.

An 80mm vice is about the right capacity for an SX2P, but it sounds as if details stop it being fitted to the mill out of the box. Same thing has happened to me twice, but both were fixed by swapping bolts and making some T-nuts. Neither operation would make me blink today now I've built up a collection of bolts, have the wherewithal to hold metal on the table, and own a decent junk box. Much more annoying in the early days, when the workshop is empty apart from a new mill! Best advice is to persist; it's very satisfying and educational to fix problems like this yourself. Clamping direct to the table is a valuable skill, and making T-nuts is a good beginner challenge - neither too easy or too hard. Vital to train the operator, and asking the forum is another skill worth having.

Crack on, it's all part of the fun. A big advantage of owning a lathe and mill is you can alter and adapt metal objects to fit.

Dave

More fun than making, Warco, and still stupid cheap, same price that they sell them at the shows. The stud / bolt is prevented from exiting the bottom.

That’s ok if you’re happy with the stud size. For my machine those T nuts take a 12mm stud which is way over the top for what I do. I made my T nuts with M10 threads but also use M8 clamping elements as well.