Stabilising a Milling Machine

I've been meaning to fasten down or otherwise stabilise my Warco Super Major Mill for some time now. Even with everything secure and the gibs tightened, it still has a tendency to vibrate (a lot) and wobble (a bit) on it's current flat base.

However, I'm not quite sure of the most favourable means to accomplish the task. The issue is my lack of trust in the quality of the concrete in the garage and the fact that I'm not keen on drilling a bunch more large holes in the floor.

Is there another way to gain a similar level of rigidity? Perhaps some rubberised feet?

Bolt it to the floor then no risk of it toppling over and more rigid than rubber feet

I was afraid you'd say that.

If it were to do that, would you suggest putting rubber between the base and the floor?

Or would metal-concrete be better?

Straight to the floor but make sure there are no gaps under the feet, if there are add shims. You can use sleeve anchors or thro-bolts which will just poke through the hole so mill won't need moving.

When you have done that get a wall socket fitted so that lead does not run across the doorway

Edited By JasonB on 19/05/2020 13:55:26

Lee

Make sure there aren't any pipes or electrical conduits in the floor where you are going to drill.

Emgee

Lee, I have the similar Wargo GH (geared head) Universal mill. Mine sits on a wooden stand, which in turn sits on a wheeled base I bought at the time to help me manipulate the mill around a small garage.

When I bought mine, Warco was out of bases. I was later delivered the next size up, and I wish I had your one. I have kept the wooden stand as it is a better height for me I don't like stooping.

From my experiences with the wooden stand, I don't think it's possible to destabilize 300kg of machine, even though there may be some wobble and vibration. Heavy stone structures withstand a lot, often even earthquakes. I look at buildings and marvel that they stand, yet I understand cognitively in which direction the forces are going.

If you can raise it up again, some rubber might kill the vibration, the wobble is due I think to the thickness (or otherwise) of the stand, but I don't think you need be concerned.

Bill

Don't worry, that's an old picture. I have since wired 6 new sockets into the existing ring main.

I'm pretty sure the garage is free of such subterranean impediments.

I'm certainly not concerned about tipping it over. It takes all my weight and lifting power to tip it enough to get something underneath it (rollers, etc). I just want it to stop sounding like it's going to bring the house down if I take more than 1mm DOC.

Wow, lots of empty floor space!

Fixing the stand to the floor may not help as it is probably the thin sheet metal that is vibrating and flexing. Build a new stand out of breeze blocks and cast in place a concrete top. Don't glue it to the floor with cement the weight will keep it in place but it can still be moved if necessary. Very cheap and if it doesn't work you can still use the parts in the garden for a BBQ.

just get some resin anchor fix from your local builders merchants and some threaded rod washers and nuts. Drill the holes through the base into and even through the concrete the clearance for the threaded rod. clean out the holes to get rid of dust etc. then fill the holes with the resin ( read label on cartridge for instructions) and push in the threaded rod, which has to be clean and grease free, twisting as you push to get a good coating. The rod will become part of the concrete without stressing the hole and will never come out. the threaded rod has to be cut off flush to the floor if you ever need to move the machine but it will never fall over. I have used this for many pieces of machinery from an offhand grinder to large CNC milling machines up to 50 tonne and recommend it as the safest and easiest method to fasten down machinery.

David

None of my milling machines are bolted down. Doing so may help damp vibration, but won't stop it. A better idea would be to cure the vibration in the first place. The first thing I'd look at is cutting conditions - quality of cutter and it's sharpness and cutting conditions such as spindle speed, feedrate and depth and width of cut.

Andrew

Lee, my machine, similar to yours on a steel stand it isn't fastened down, but I do have it sat on a square of rubber conveyor belting.

Not anymore I'm afraid. That's a pre-lathe photo. The workshop is now quite full.

That stand is not made from thin sheet metal. It weighs more than I do.

Thank you guys.

I think I'm going to try rubber and to improve my technique in the first instance, then bolt it if all else fails.

I have a LUX milling machine for which I made a stand using 40x40x4 box tubing.

The space under the machine is used for storage of milling tools ect.

It has never moved since I installed it but to be sure, to be sure, I fitted a brace from the top of the coloum to the back wall.

My Champion V20 mill is sitting on the supplied metal stand, I was less than impressed with the lack of rigidity of the stand. It didn’t improve after it was bolted to the concrete, the setup wobbled like the proverbial jelly but not to the extent that it would topple. I resorted to fixing a support at the back of the stand ,securely bolted to the wall, it improved it but did not give the rigidity that I would be happy with, at some point in the future I plan on constructing a substantial wooden stand instead of the flexible tin box it currently sits on. Lee hope you manage to find some way to get the stability you are seeking.
Dave W

Putting aside the bulk stability and focussing on the vibration for a bit.

Does it vibrate when it's cutting or just running.?

Is it just panels or drawers rattling or is it really vibrating (a lot). In other words does the noise make it sound worse than it is.

It is a mill so there should be very little out of balance rotational mass with the exception of fly cutters so the vibration can only be from the cutting action or the motor.

I'm with Andrew on this one. Track down the source first.

regards Martin

From what has transpired in lee's other posts I think his best option would be to reassess the vibration and inability to cut more than 1mm after a half decent milling cutter has been correctly held in a collet and again some half decent inserts fitted into a true running cheap facemill.