My beaten up Myford

Hello, A newby here,

I have I think an Ml10 which I rescued from a civil engineers yard in Dar es Salaam some years ago, as one does. $125 was the outlay!

I have managed to do some minor jobs with it, but am struggling to do anything accurate. What happens when turning the cross feed is it moves in jerks, it seems to be binding on the bed and jumping forward, so it is impossible to do anything accurate. I have been searching for the correct lubricant to be used on the slides, perhaps if I dismantle and clean it up and re lubricate it it will improve.

I could try some chain bar oil that I have seen recommended by someone on this forum.

My objectives with the lathe at present is to make parts to repair old model plane engines, big end bushings and possibly piston rings if I get brave, for example.

Advice would be welcomed, do I use it as an anchor and buy something better, or is there a magic snake oil which will help?

I have just ordered Sparey's book on forumites recommendations....

Thanks,

Charles

Good morning Charles. First of all, clean the slideways and give them a drop of oil. Personally, I don't think it makes much difference what sort, I use a lighter oil and would not advocate Chain Bar (Chain saw ??) oil as it is too 'sticky'. Next, check that your cutting tool is sharp and set on the centreline of the axis of the lathe - check against a centre placed into the tailstock . Check that the Gib screws are tight, but not so excessive as to making the slides too stiff. Then have a go at that and let us know how it goes for you.
BobH

Charles,

I would first check the bed for wear

The ML10 is a good little lathe, but I was put-off buying one when I discovered that Myford [Beeston] did not consider the bed suitable for re-grinding.

... I will post a link to the article, when I can locate it.

MichaelG.

.

http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Used_lathe.html

Here's the punchline:

Note: It is not possible to do a full bed and saddle regrind on an ML10, Speed10, or Diamond 10 Lathe. At best the top of the bed can have 0.005in. (0.127mm) removed, a once only operation, so your visual inspection is crucial.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 21/02/2018 08:49:49

I wonder if your crosslide leadscrew's bent, and the nut's loose in the slide?

Hello Charles,

There could be many other things responsible for the symptoms you describe; I think it would a great deal more satisfactory for you to be a lot bolder and do a full strip and inspection and put the faults you discover right. You might then be inspired to extend the inspection to the whole machine, there could be other problems yet to be discovered.

After all, the poor lathe had been dumped in a country where even a dead grandmother might be regarded as trade goods in certain circles!

Kind regards

Brian

Don't despair Charles - I've never had one but I understand that the ML10 is a sturdy little machine - and it probably just needs some kindness.

As Speedy suggests - first it sounds like you need to clean, oil and adjust your cross-slide. You want to get it as smooth as possible before you cut anything. If possible (in general terms) I like to adjust gib-strips without the feed screw in place, as you can slide the moving item too and fro and feel any stiffness. A light oil is all that is needed. I don't know if you can do this with the ML10 cross-slide/feed screw but it makes gib adjustment much easier if you can.

If you find it difficult to 'keep' the gib adjustment during or after adjustment - then it's possible the gib screws/piece will need some attention to stop them from moving out of adjustment - I cannot recall if the Sparey book covers this (or not). Come back here if you think this is a problem.

Once you have everything set as well as possible - then try facing again. If you can lock the saddle - then do so. Make sure that your tool is sharp and correctly set/angled (i.e. cutting rather than rubbing). Proceed slowly and see if things have improved. Try to change only one thing at a time - noting any improvement (or not). Sometimes several small problems can compound to give you a bigger one - and you need to be methodical.

Assume that your lathe (with your help and perseverance) is capable of good work until you can absolutely prove otherwise. Most importantly - do enjoy using your lathe!

Regards,

IanT

Sounds like you need to pull the cross slide off and give it and the feedcrew etc a good cleaning and oiling with whatever oil is handy. Engine oil will work just fine to get you going. It's all I've used on my lathe for 50 years now. If the ML10 is the same as the ML7 in basic set-up, you just keep turning the feedscrew out until you can pull the cross slide off.

Then adjust the gib screws on the cross slide without the feed screw in place so the slide slides in and out easily with just a little bit of drag and no perceptible shake. When happy with its movement, put the feedscrew back in positon, but with the two allen screws holding the feedscrew bracket (the one next to the dial) to the cross slide done up just finger tight. Screw the feedscrew all the way in, until the cross slide is at the end of its travel. Then tighten up the two allen screws. This sets the feedscrew in line with the nut it engages with.

Check that the slide still moves in and out smoothly without jerking now. If it does, you may need to adjust the nut and handle to provide a little slack where the feedscrew fits through the bracket. It needs also to have just perceptible drag with no perceptible shake. Preferable to have a tiny little bit of shake rather than be tight, as with the gibs.

I have the ML10. The biggest problem I find is cutting cast iron, the dust gets trapped between the bed and the saddle. I have all sorts of squeegees fitted trying to keep it out, but eventually it needs tearing apart, washing out with paraffin, particularly in all it's important little places, then reassembling with a quality lube. You can't wash it out without removing the saddle, how I have tried

I buy Myford slideway oil off ebay,

ISA VG 68 (FEBRIS K68)

Mobil Vactra No. 2 - 1 Litre

Whatever that lot means

On the Speed 10 I used to have (which I think is identical to ML10 in most respects) you could simply back off the crosslide until the leadscrew wound out of the nut, then remove the leadscrew with its handwheel, dial and bearing housing.

There should be a saddle locking screw with a little tommy bar, top left of the apron under the left side of the crosslide.

You might find you can't reach a gib adjustment that's consistent all the way across - most will have worn more in the range of movement where they've been most used. If so, accepting a bit of slop in the worn places is better than binding in the unworn.

Gents,

Many thanks for the excellent replies, you are too kind.

So I shall take the slide off and clean it all up as per descriptions above.

I have been using ordinary SAE30 mower oil up to now, it seems as though this is adequate.

I probably have the gib screws too tight.

Also the handwheel shaft was bent by impact. (the end of the lead screw) I managed to straighten it a bit by hand, when it is out I will have another look at it.

I am enjoying it, it is so rewarding to make something that works.

I may yet look for a small lathe/ mill combo instead rather than spending much on my old safari veteran! Recommendations in this regard would be much appreciated. I am interested in making little bits mostly. Maybe a glow engine one day...

Regards,

Charles

.

Charles

Upon reflection [having reviewed the responses by other members] ...

Did I misinterpret your use of the word 'bed' ?

MichaelG.

I was thinking he meant the 'bed' of the crosslide, ie. the slideways on the saddle, at right angles to the spindle centreline. If not, the comments I posted are irrelevant.

.

You are probably correct, Mick

... That's why I thought it wise to ask my question.

MichaelG.

Morning gents,

Sorry for my poor descriptions.

The cross feed/ slide is my problem. The one you use to change the diameter of the work.

The slide seems to bind up and then jump.

I shall have a go at the weekend, following the above guidelines.

Many thanks.

Thanks, Charles

I had made the the [obvious but erroneous] assumption that 'bed' meant 'lathe bed'.

... entirely my mistake.

MichaelG.

One posibility not yet mentioned is that the lead screw itself might be able to move in and out a little, so need shimming, possibly with a thin washer, to avoid said movement.

The Lead screw on an ML10 is backlash controlled at the right hand end by the bracket and the handle and a lock nut ! If modified for a drum scale and a clutch release then the Lead screw is cut at the left end to allow disengagement! Very handy for screwcutting.. Agree that swarf and debri get into the body of the saddle and I am at the moment making a shroud to fit over the lead screw to prevent this, it will easily be dismounted. Mainly to stop swarf falling on the leadscrew and being carried back into the half thread nuts which are some sort of ally.

Clive

I have one of them, made it in brass. I bought a pot of green Myford paint to make it look official. It gets bent occasionally because I made it before I fitted the leadscrew clutch.

Better to get the ML10 working properly and buy a small mill to go with it unless you have space constraints. The combined lathe/mills are rather limiting.

Russell

Charles,

I have a spare short ML10 cross-slide body and leadscrew, left over after changing to the longer cross-slide a few years ago. They are yours for the postage if you need them.

Jim.