Robin Graham | 05/03/2016 20:55:47 |
1089 forum posts 345 photos | I've recently bought a Record woodworking bandsaw which has two speeds - roughly 2300 and 1000 feet per minute. Not having a metal-cutting vertical saw, I'm naturally wondering if I can use this in my metal-mangling activities. I had a look at the MIT workshop training site which gives 100 fpm for cutting steel, the limit being due to the heat generated taking the temper off the teeth - I assume they are referring to carbon steel blades, though it's not made explicit. On the other hand, I own (but don't possess, because of logistical f-ups) a Burgess two-speed saw which, according to the manual, will cut 25mm steel on its low speed of around 320fpm - again, I assume, CS blades. Confusing! I could probably get the Record saw down to 500 fpm - anything slower would need major mods which I'm not going to do. I do have a bimetal blade for it - M42 HSS teeth apparently, -so I'm wondering , given that HSS can work much hotter than CS, if I could get away with that? Anyone tried this sort of thing? If it's nuts, there's always the hacksaw and files to fall back on Regards, Rob.
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JasonB | 05/03/2016 20:58:58 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | it will be OK on non ferrous but not that good on steel. I use my old Record woodworking one for metal from sheet upto 2" aluminium - just put your ear defenders on
Edited By JasonB on 05/03/2016 20:59:47 |
Peter Tucker | 06/03/2016 18:23:44 |
185 forum posts | Hi Robin, My father-in-law converted his timber cutting bandsaw to cut steel, he used a motor with an integral worm drive to reduce the speed. To cut steel with a high carbon steel blade you'll need to reduce the speed to 50 feet a minute. Hope this helps. Peter. |
Frances IoM | 06/03/2016 19:36:24 |
1395 forum posts 30 photos | I bought a cheap (all I could afford at time) Naerok 3 speed band saw with 500W motor many years ago - the speed difference was about 10:1 fastest:slowest - this will cut sheet metal (with horrendous noise) + mildsteel a few(<10) mm thick - cutting a 6mm stainless steel threaded rod however totally wrecked the blade and melted the plastic insert in centre of the table |
Roger Provins 2 | 06/03/2016 19:54:56 |
344 forum posts | I have an old Burgess BK3 that only has one speed of about 300 feet per minute. I fitted a Tuffsaws bimetal blade and it cuts metals (bms,brass,aluminium etc.) very well if a bit slowly. Edited By Roger Provins 2 on 06/03/2016 19:55:51 |
oldvelo | 06/03/2016 20:03:02 |
297 forum posts 56 photos | Hi A vertical bandsaw can be converted to cut metal very successfully with the proper gearing down. A link to the last conversion of mine http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=24940 A Bi-Metal blade is well worth the extra cost for cutting steel Eric
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John Stevenson | 06/03/2016 20:12:57 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | Push it until the blade breaks and then back off a tad.................................. |
DMR | 06/03/2016 20:49:44 |
136 forum posts 14 photos | I have a bandsaw of each type including a Record 3 speed. The design of the driving principle is different in that the wood version works on self centring rubber rimmed wheels to guide the blade whereas the metals one works on steel wheels and is set up to just nudge a raised rim on each wheel. I would have thought that the rubber rims on the woodworking one would give up quite quickly if I tried using a potentially hotter metal cutting blade, especially if I employed oil during metal cutting. Once the self centring principle on the woodcutting one was destroyed the blade would not stay on the wheels. Obviously some people seem to be metal cutting on their wood saws, so some woodsaws may employ a different blade alignment principle. I would certainly not expect my woodsaw to last long cutting metal. The work holding principles are different as well so accuracy of cut would be dubious without further mods. Regards, Dennis |
Vic | 06/03/2016 20:56:04 |
3453 forum posts 23 photos | I cut some 2" square alloy bar on my Record woodworking bandsaw last week and it cut really well with one of my standard carbon steel blades, not very noisy either. I did of course put it on the lower speed. I'm now thinking of getting a dedicated HSS blade for my bandsaw. |
Roger Provins 2 | 06/03/2016 21:02:51 |
344 forum posts | Hi Dennis, My old Burgess has been working happily for a couple of years sawing metal. So far no problems with the wheel rubbers, the blade has never come off and the accuracy cutting shapes is fine providing one works within the limits of the blade size. The bi-metal blades last a long time. Obviously I'm not cutting large sections but it does okay for me. Roger |
Robin Graham | 07/03/2016 02:12:25 |
1089 forum posts 345 photos | Thanks for all your replies chaps. JohnS - I actually asked myself (such is your influence) what the Bodger's Lodge answer to my question would be, and came up with pretty much what you said. However, I'm not rich enough to sacrifice blades at 26 quid a pop in the interest of experimentation, still less risk knackering the saw, hence my question! It sounds like I probably shouldn't try cutting steel on this saw, tho ali should be OK. I really don't want to get involved in major mods such as fitting a gearbox. Maybe the Burgess, if and when it arrives, will do the business. What I actually want to do is cut profiles in maybe 6mm steel plate to make supports for column radiators. They could be bought of course, but I need 6 and at 35 quid each, and - well - no. There are many other ways to skin this particular cat, but I'm sure you know how it goes, you get a new toy for a particular (in this case woodworking) purpose, then start thinking what else it might do..... Thanks again for your replies, Rob
Edited By Robin Graham on 07/03/2016 02:16:38 |
Jerry Wray | 07/03/2016 08:23:43 |
84 forum posts 4 photos | Robin, I have exactly the same bandsaw on which I cut metals quite happily for small jobs, using a metal grade blade, but I also have a metal bandsaw which I use for major cuttting work. But 35 quid for a blade! Have you tried Tuffsaws? Lots of MEs use him. Not only are his blades excellent quality but he is a fount of knowledge. He is very helpful and will make blades to taste very quickly. On occasion he has given me overnight service. Try him! Jerry
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MW | 07/03/2016 09:23:35 |
![]() 2052 forum posts 56 photos | Posted by John Stevenson on 06/03/2016 20:12:57:
Push it until the blade breaks and then back off a tad.................................. Are you taking the mick? :P |
Robin Graham | 07/03/2016 21:06:48 |
1089 forum posts 345 photos | Jerry, the 35 quid was for the radiator supports which I want to make myself - it's a ridiculous price for what is basically a machine foot with a U shaped bit of steel welded on top. And the bought ones don't even fit properly according to the reviews. I paid about 26 quid for a 14/16 tpi varitooth Starrett bimetal blade for the Record saw from Tuffsaws , less exotic blades are about half that price - I agree that Ian John at tuffsaws gives outstanding service, it's nice when someone is actually an expert in the product they sell. When you say you have exactly the same saw, is that the Burgess of the Record? Concensus seems to be that the Record without extensive mods runs too fast for steel. Michael, I'm sure JohnS wasn't taking the mick, he'd never do anything like that Regards, Robin
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