Member postings for DMR

Hi Jon, Your vice is a cheap and cheerful one but your question can be miss understood. The vice jaw will tilt sideways (against the fixed jaw) as there is nothing to hold it square to the fixed jaw on that design. If you can, do as Nick suggests if that is the case.

But do you mean the jaw tilts upwards such that the keep-plate underneath is set incorrectly. There should not be any perceptable play in the moving jaw if you try to lift it. It should be held down on the bedrails by the keep-plate.

Dennis

Looks like a custom part for the job/manufacturer. Probably bakelite which you would be very lucky to find. It would not have to be identical for anyone to notice but the thread needs to be the right one. BSF would be likely if its a UK make. As Martin says, you need to say where you are to help with that.

Dennis

I'm with Paul Lousick on Firefox. And a Mac - abandoned MS some years ago now and never looked back. There is a learning curve but it's worth it.

As Ian says but make it wedge shaped along the cut edge so you can tap it in. search for "wedge" and you should get the idea. If you form two up you can clamp them together which is less stressful on the machine itself.

Seadog,

Bumped you up so you may get an answer. Your wording is not too good and you don't say what your replacement parts are. Logic says the heavier load and most (sideways) wear is on the rack pinion. I am not ML7 but the manual does not show any bushes in the apron and I do recall sloppy handwheels on well-used models. There is some merit to bushing the apron for both shafts if that is the case.

Dennis

You need to ask Google for Record Imp vice jaws.

Dennis

It might say BICC Burndy on it somewhere and it is for extracting pins and sockets out of small connectors. It's obsolete now as things are smaller and not alterable. That's progress. The pins (or sockets) for the plug are crimped to the wire ends and inserted into the body, retained by an outward facing clip on the pin. To extract a pin the tool (to be exact - it's outer tube) is pushed down the side of the pin to push the clip away from its retaining surface and further pressure brings the inner rod down onto the pin pushing it out of the moulding (the plug body). It works on the free wired plug or the socket on the instrumentation.

I believe your car would/should not have passed the MOT without a working speedo. Sounds like they had a fiddle about and never even realised they had made things worse after doing the MOT. Check fuses.

You have the original pulley and only one of the three speeds is worn. So use either of the lower speed sections to give you the shape and dimensions of the "V" that you need . You should still have the dimension/diameter of the root of the "V" on the faster worn one and work from there. Bear in mind that the root is not critical insofar as the smaller the root is, the faster your machine will run.

Ideally the belt should run just at the top of the "V" and go nowhere near the bottom flat. So you could get the top dimension from the belt and work from there having seen how the belt looks on the to slower speeds. Might be a good idea to renew the belt first but you should be able to get there on your own

Dennis

When a big load of molten steel gets accidentally dropped into a snow -driven muddy puddle, it makes quite a big bang and quite a big mess. Port Talbot BOS (Basic Oxygen Steel) plant during early commissioning.

Are you sure its the belt? Have a good look at the condition of the pulley/s involved. Your belt may be bottoming in the V of the pulley due to wear there. Don't be tempted by link belts if you use top speed on a Myford S7. It won't fit, but otherwise go for it if you want.

Chris, It would help a lot to know where you are in the world. There may be someone near to you who would help. I hope you are not going to do anything with the lathe before changing out of your nice clean slippers!

You should ask the seller if he forgot to give you the relevant chuck keys, but equally you should be able to make your own at far less cost than buying new. Otherwise dial up "lathe chuck key" on ebay and find one with a square end at least as big as you require and file down two sides of it to a fit.

The disc with the bobble on (as you refer to it) is a catch plate for turning work between centers. Dial up "catch plate" on google and it shows you what else you need for that like suitable drive dogs and a couple of centers for each end of your work.

Dennis

Hi Dave,

I am with Simon Williams 3 on this. You do not need a continuous oil feed and, above all your window arrangement is not irrepairable. I have an S7 of both designs. My early machine has no cone scoring whereas the later machine does, presumably from the felt pad running dry in the past.

What you do need to do is get the tap (as Myford called it) out upwards so that you can push your new white casing into place. That is a bit of a frightening exercise as it is a push-fit. Just oil the hole in the back of the sight glass and even put a spot on top of the cone where it sticks out at the front and you will be good to run for a few hours. You need a piece of nylon rod or similar to turn up a new white bit and put a fine thread on the front/outer end. Trickiest bit is the screw-on front with its short fine thread. The fibre washer is easy and I have spare glass as I made 3 from a microscope side when I broke mine.

See my PM and I can talk you through it if you are interested.

Dennis

Looks like an Acme tap to me. Good list of advise from my almost name-sake

Dennis

The guts of the Mk1 are identical to those in the Mk2; only the external gears are different. Note that it is not sensibly possible to convert the Mk1 to be a Mk2. I think you will need to remove the box to remove the Lay Shaft to get at the taper pin on the 39T shaft. No reason to not us the same taper pin again; just get all the tapers the right way round or it will work loose. Your external gears got broken because you don’t have the aluminium cover over them. It helps stops swarf and the saddle running into them. It is possible to fabricate a replacement and I can give you pictures if it helps
Dennis

Beware, There are different sizes of these things. Check the width of the slot you intend it to fit before purchase. I got the big one first and it didn't fit the Startrite. Great toy though.

BA was never metric to my knowledge. You need an imperial inches set.

I am not an ML7 man so cannot do the dimensions but as Grizzly says. you can buy the part from new myford for 65 quid all in. Much easier than trying to make the ganged assembly which would have to be in steel. Do you have the Back Gear Eccentric assembly that it fits onto plus the 2BA x 1/2" socket countersunk screw and washer that hold the gear in place?

www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/B50.-21-56T-BACKGEAR-CLUSTER--70-1218-40.html

Dennis

I have sharpened one successfully using my Harold Hall grinding set. Mine is a very old chrome job on its own stand. A small diameter grinding wheel is essential to achieve a clearance with the following cutting edge. I cannot imagine anyone achieving a reasonable result freehand as the cutting edges are so close together.

Dennis

E-mail me with an e-mail address and I will send you some schematics. I have the Chester version but it will be the same thing. I believe the part comes off but only by removing the quill. Its the wrong time of day to go looking

Dennis